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-   -   No! Run!! (https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-valve-2nd-gen-dodge-cummins-98-5-02/42743-no-run.html)

Weyco Woods Man 02-07-2010 02:06 PM

No! Run!!
 
:humm:I've got fuel to the injectors. Cranks over but no fire! It feels like its not firing? Sure could use so help on this one!!!:humm::s::argh::argh: Thanks, Jeff

RAW 02-07-2010 02:48 PM

Any codes? That's a really good place to start.

Tweaker727 02-07-2010 02:48 PM

Pull any codes ? Check cap and rotor ? ( Sorry i had to )


Check for codes by turning the key on and back off then returning to the run position 3 times, and where the ODO reads, it will give you a set of codes.

Weyco Woods Man 02-07-2010 03:01 PM

thanks!:hellox: All it says is 1693. What is this code ? Does anyone Know!:humm:

mishkaya 02-07-2010 03:13 PM


Originally Posted by Weyco Woods Man (Post 488961)
thanks!:hellox: All it says is 1693. What is this code ? Does anyone Know!:humm:

1693 just means there was a companion code stored in the PCM. Doesn't mean a thing by itself. How much fuel do you have to the injectors? Also, does the tach move when cranking?

Weyco Woods Man 02-07-2010 03:20 PM

Its got all kinds of fuel.:jump: And the tach does go up.:humm:

mishkaya 02-07-2010 04:03 PM


Originally Posted by Weyco Woods Man (Post 488987)
Its got all kinds of fuel.:jump: And the tach does go up.:humm:

I'm at a bit of a loss. If you are getting fuel to the injectors, the truck should start, provided it's getting enough air also. What's the temp out there, and are your grid heaters working?

Weyco Woods Man 02-07-2010 04:23 PM

Sure could use somemore input,I know I'm not the 1st one to have this problem,am I??.:scare2::s::humm:

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Heater grid works fine:tu: Temp. mid 40's:humm:

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Don't have enough hair to pullout anymore!:dang::scare2: Thanks for the help so far. I've gone though the same step to get to here! I'm at a lose.:ouch::argh:.Thats when I got on here to pick your brains:humm:

RAW 02-07-2010 04:47 PM

So there is fuel at the injector when the line is cracked, and no restriction to fuel flow. Once the line is closed (tightened) the resistance to fuel flow would significantly increase. If the pump can not produce the pressure to crack the injector, no fuel would flow. Try removing the injector bleed off return line located at eh back of the head, and monitor the fuel conning out of it while cranking. Both with the line cracked, and closed. A plug will be required to prevent return fuel from the VP44 from spilling everywhere.
It's an idea, and will take some time to test. Hope it helps.

Codgedodger 02-07-2010 06:17 PM

You only need to crack 2-3 injectors to push the air out, then tighten them back and it will start...

NCFPD 02-07-2010 09:41 PM

had sane thing happen to me switch your fuel relay with your wiper motor relay try that befor any thing let me know if it works

Russ Roth 02-08-2010 09:37 AM

How much fuel at the injectors do you really have? You should have copious amounts or it's not enough. Not just some little squirts. Check here. This was very helpful to me.


Blue Chip Diesel Performance Specialists

Tweaker727 02-08-2010 10:57 AM

Having that single code in the PCM, i would try to rent one of those plug in OBD2 code readers and see what it says,

I'm curious about the rocker arm's moving and what not.. does it seem to labor like normal when you crank it over ? Is there any way you can pull the valve cover off and check to make sure all of the valves are opening like they should ?!

How many miles did you say you had on this motor ? And isn't there a Oil pressure kill switch on these ? I can't remember.

My mind's run off into the wild with ideas and other problems, but you need to check the basics first, you've got 1 done, = you've got fuel, now you need to know if your getting air and compression

What other mods does it have ? I.E Programmer, aftermarket lift pump. gauges, turbo timer ?

we'll get to the bottom of this.. just playing a game of Chat tag is all :s:

Weyco Woods Man 02-08-2010 03:53 PM

Its got 269,000 miles. just broke-in :w2:.Airdog 100,:tu:. Other than that it's stock! It cranks real good till batteries giveup then I have to give it a jump.Otherwise its got juice!:choochoo:

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I've cracked open #1,#3&#4 have totally no air! nothing but fuel:tu::jump:.Have clear air way,and I have battery!:argh::argh::ouch:.I just don't know what else to try.:ouch::humm:

Weyco Woods Man 02-08-2010 03:56 PM

Could it be my injectors?.:humm:.Or could it be the injectorpump?:scare2::humm:

mishkaya 02-08-2010 04:01 PM


Originally Posted by Weyco Woods Man (Post 490028)
Could it be my injectors?.:humm:.Or could it be the injectorpump?:scare2::humm:

Not too likely to be the injectors, although a refresh wouldn't hurt at that mileage. My guess would be VP44, especially if it's up there in age... :ouch:

Weyco Woods Man 02-08-2010 04:14 PM


Originally Posted by Weyco Woods Man (Post 490028)
Could it be my injectors?.:humm:.Or could it be the injectorpump?:scare2::humm:

If it is one or the other how can I test it myself?:humm:

24VCumminspwr 02-08-2010 05:32 PM

hey man make sure you clear all the codes off of the pcm if their is a code stored in the pcm the truck will not start ever!!!! make sure the codes are cleared crack the 1st injector line a little crank the motor a few times then tighten the injector and i would almost bet it will fire... If not i do have a few diff. ideas Feel free to call my work number (518)627-1060 if i dont answer leave message with # i will get right back to you

mishkaya 02-08-2010 05:58 PM


Originally Posted by Weyco Woods Man (Post 490044)
If it is one or the other how can I test it myself?:humm:

Can't test either of them yourself. Injectors can be pop tested by a shop for usually $100 and the VP44 can be bench tested as well, but not sure of the cost on that one... :ouch:

bbolding 02-08-2010 07:57 PM

My truck would just randomly not start... Replaced lift pump and checked all the fuel line. ran good for a week then would randomly not start. Finally got a code for Crack position think it was P0336 I think. Replaced it now starts every time. Was able to start with a gas rag before to get the engine spinning fast enuf to get a signal from the crank sender. :argh::s:

Lil Red Express 02-08-2010 08:07 PM

Does it smoke at all? Sounds like your VP is too weak. If it was the injectors they would not all quite at the same time, it would still try to fire on a couple of cylinders.

RAW 02-08-2010 08:30 PM

Hmmm, bbolding may be onto something. How about the Cam sensor as well?:humm:

bbolding 02-08-2010 09:34 PM

What was going on with mine is that would get fuel pressure then try to start and then 0 psi. The ECM was not seeing the engine spinning over and killing the fuel pump.

Russ Roth 02-08-2010 10:49 PM

If you read and follow the Blue Chip link I posted you can figure out if it is the injection pump or not.

Weyco Woods Man 02-09-2010 02:16 PM

How do you clear the pcm of codes? :humm: The only code I've gotten so far was 1693. Talked with a dodge tech. he said if you could here the pump in the injectorpump working that it was fine! All you had to do was turn the key on?

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Cam & Crank sender! Where are they located at ? Maybe they just need to be cleaned!??:humm:

wes-cummins 02-09-2010 03:25 PM

CRANK SENSOR ABOVE BALANCER

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LOOK IN SERVICE MANUAL AND FIND OUT WHAT CODE 1693 IS,
IM NOT SURE BUT I THINK WHEN MY BROTHERS TRUCK QUIT RUNNING ONCE IT THREW THAT CODE, MIGHT BE MAP SENSOR

mishkaya 02-09-2010 03:33 PM


Originally Posted by Weyco Woods Man (Post 490807)
How do you clear the pcm of codes? :humm: The only code I've gotten so far was 1693. Talked with a dodge tech. he said if you could here the pump in the injectorpump working that it was fine! All you had to do was turn the key on?

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Cam & Crank sender! Where are they located at ? Maybe they just need to be cleaned!??:humm:

You don't have a crank position sensor on an '01, and the cam position sensor is located below the VP44 (injection pump). If your tach is working when you are cranking, it shouldn't be a problem though, especially if it's not throwing a code. P1693 just means that there is/was another code stored in the PCM. That should not prevent the truck from starting. The only thing that would prevent the truck from actually starting, provided it has enough fuel to pop the injectors, would be lack of compression, but that would be very surprising if the truck is not making any strange noises. You can always try swapping the fuel pump relay with the horn relay in the power distribution center, but if you are getting fuel to the injectors, that should not be the problem either.

wes-cummins 02-09-2010 03:58 PM

how much fuel pressure you got?

mabey lift pump to weak

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sry i didnt know they didnt have a crank sensor on the vp trucks

mishkaya 02-09-2010 04:08 PM


Originally Posted by wes-cummins (Post 490925)


sry i didnt know they didnt have a crank sensor on the vp trucks

That's OK, crank position sensor stopped in 2000 as far as I know. :c:

wes-cummins 02-09-2010 04:43 PM

ha ha i know my 12 valve in and out, dont keep up on the other trucks a much, only know basics on vp trucks

bbolding 02-09-2010 08:19 PM

I know mine has one it is a 2000. Actually got cam and crank sensor both on mine...? don't know why. but My tac would stop working too sooo.... don't know.? :humm:

mishkaya 02-10-2010 06:03 AM


Originally Posted by bbolding (Post 491178)
I know mine has one it is a 2000. Actually got cam and crank sensor both on mine...? don't know why. but My tac would stop working too sooo.... don't know.? :humm:

2000 was the last year for the Crank position sensor. Usually if your tach quits, in your case it would be the crank position sensor that is bad as the PCM uses that to calculate fuel flow etc...

Weyco Woods Man 02-10-2010 03:23 PM

It's all pointing to the VP 44 isn't it!:argh: I guess its time to start shopping!:humm:.Thanks ,Jeff

Tweaker727 02-13-2010 07:06 AM

Can you youtube a video of it cranking over?

Did you get it scanned for codes ?

MAYBE .. i don't know why, but try resetting your APPS ?!

Disconnect your batteries over a 4-6 hour period, Leave the key in the on postion
turn key off
hook batteries back up(make sure they're charged up after all that cranking :tttt:)
turn key on
slowly push pedal to floor
slowly let pedal up
turn key off

Try to start ! See if you can't get that code reader from someone local before you disconnect the batteries, Check for codes before and after !

I'm almost thinkin VP pump aswell, but there's no way i'd spend that kind of money with out being damn sure ! :jump:

Keep us posted !


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