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Front driveline u-joints...

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  #11  
Old 12-02-2010, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by KATOOM
Honestly, I would suggest that you take it to a reputable driveline shop and have them fix it up with some non-greaseable u-joints. The price you pay (which shouldn't be to much) will far exceed the time, effort, and experimenting, you'll have to go through.....not counting any possible errors.
I think your argument is counterproductive there.

And the reason I say to use non-greaseable is because they are far superior to greaseable. Non-greaseable have 3 firm seals which snap into place to keep water/debris out and grease in where greaseable has only 1 weak seal that does a crappy job so you can push out contaminants when (if) you do grease them. Plus, non-greaseable u-joints are stronger than greaseable because they're solid and they dont have the zerk fitting.

I am inclined to agree with this statement. A big problem with greaseable u-joints is the fact that people forget to grease them. If you keep them greased they will last just as long as a non-greaseable one. Though they will still be weaker.
 
  #12  
Old 12-03-2010, 09:48 AM
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Thanks guys. Katoom is right. I've changed u-joints but never a double cardab setup with a cv joint in the middle of that. What a pain. I ended up taking it to a driveline shop where they found other problems and suggested cutting off the one end of the driveline and welding on a new part before they rebuild it. Can't remember what they called the piece but apparently it's got to be replaced before everything goes back together. So I'm either going to have a driveline shop rebuild it, quote was $217, or I was also considering a remaned driveline from Orielly Auto parts for about $205.
 
  #13  
Old 12-03-2010, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Renteria1217
Thanks guys. Katoom is right. I've changed u-joints but never a double cardab setup with a cv joint in the middle of that. What a pain. I ended up taking it to a driveline shop where they found other problems and suggested cutting off the one end of the driveline and welding on a new part before they rebuild it. Can't remember what they called the piece but apparently it's got to be replaced before everything goes back together. So I'm either going to have a driveline shop rebuild it, quote was $217, or I was also considering a remaned driveline from Orielly Auto parts for about $205.
Let them rebuild it because not only will they stand behind their work by getting the length perfect, the u-joints right, and probably balanced as part of the job, the over the counter one may not be perfect and may possibly be out of balance. What do you do if its not right or it vibrates? Take it back or take it to a driveline shop to have them fix it? Nah..... Sounds like a wasted effort to me for something more likely to happen since most of the time the over counter rebuilt stuff is garbage. And dont forget about making sure that driveline shop is reputable. There's a few around where I live and I only take my stuff to one.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by kazairl
I think your argument is counterproductive there.
Opps.....your right. Well at leaast you knew what I meant.
 

Last edited by KATOOM; 12-03-2010 at 11:17 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #14  
Old 12-04-2010, 12:13 AM
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When my double cardan joint went bad the local driveshaft shop sold me a new front shaft. However, mine wasn't simply worn, it damn near exploded. I think i paid closer to 300 for mine.

The first one they sold me was about 6 in too short. Even extended all the way. So I had to send it back and get another one. Luckily they fixed it for free.

If only it weren't an hour drive each way to the "local" driveshaft shop.
 
  #15  
Old 12-04-2010, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by kazairl
When my double cardan joint went bad the local driveshaft shop sold me a new front shaft. However, mine wasn't simply worn, it damn near exploded. I think i paid closer to 300 for mine.

The first one they sold me was about 6 in too short. Even extended all the way. So I had to send it back and get another one. Luckily they fixed it for free.

If only it weren't an hour drive each way to the "local" driveshaft shop.
Thats tad more of an error than I'd be OK with. I mean what the heck..... If anyone should know, its them, and especially if they have the old one to go off of.
 
  #16  
Old 12-04-2010, 06:02 PM
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Part of it was because they had a different style slip shaft with less travel on the slip spline. The other part was because I swapped in a 271 which was 3" longer and forgot to tell them. I was expecting a stock style shaft and mine was long enough.
 
  #17  
Old 12-04-2010, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kazairl
Part of it was because they had a different style slip shaft with less travel on the slip spline. The other part was because I swapped in a 271 which was 3" longer and forgot to tell them. I was expecting a stock style shaft and mine was long enough.
Then I retract my vicious attack on your driveline shop. That would be a good reason to get the measurements wrong.
 
  #18  
Old 12-04-2010, 11:14 PM
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Not all off base. I had to take the shaft back because they didn't get it balanced properly. If there was another shop in the area I would probably use them. But the only other one that I know of is in Scottsbluff which is 2 hrs away.
 
  #19  
Old 12-05-2010, 02:53 AM
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Originally Posted by kazairl
I think your argument is counterproductive there.




I am inclined to agree with this statement. A big problem with greaseable u-joints is the fact that people forget to grease them. If you keep them greased they will last just as long as a non-greaseable one. Though they will still be weaker.
x2. I NEVER remember to grease anything so I go with nongreasable. I also blew a greasable bastard u joint. that cost me a pretty penny.


In response to OP, if you don't make some NASTY scars on your yokes, u joints are one of those things it just takes practice with, CV or not. Once you do a couple, you know how it works, you get confident, you wreck one, you learn a little more, then you're a pro.
Hell, nasty scars or not, as long as the joints are in the right spot and the C clips are holding, its working. They seem a lot more complicated than they are.
 
  #20  
Old 12-07-2010, 05:55 PM
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Got it fixed for $135. New U-joints and new cv ball kit. Thanks.
 


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