bleeding injectors
 

ok i put a airdog 150 on my truck the other day and i went to bleed the air out. when i did this i see fuel comeing out but no start:argh: i was woundering how much fuel should i be seeing and how long it takes to start. and what was the best way that yall got ur cummins started.

when i put mine in, i just bumped the starter a couple times with the banjo bolts loose on the side of the VP44 until fuel seeped out around it, tighten up the bolt and it fired right up.

i bleed #1 3 4 injectors and still no start could it be my IP? And i have a check engine light again so im going to check that out my last codes where P1693-p0237-p0121 could any of these codes cause my truck not to start.help please:argh:

the 1693 code is not a good code it envolves the injector pump

is it possible it threw that code b/c of a lack of FP to the pump since he opened up the fuel system? if he just put an airdog on he should be able to turn the ky on and crack the banjo bolts up to the IP... after that just go down the line and crack one loose; crank it for a second or two, close the line, and proceed onto the next one... it probably wont start until you get to #5... once running just go back down the line and make sure its squirtin fuel on all 6 and not bubblin..

I would side with Tower on this. If it was running before ok then your IP should be fine. I would do it in that order: Start by bleeding on the inlet of the IP. Then on each injector. Shouldn't matter which ones you do first to last. I would think you would get a better bleed if you have help cranking. Kind of like bleeding brakes. If you have too much air in the line your injector can't fire! With help, you can crack a line and get all the air out and tighten it back down. You might be able to do a couple or more each crank 'session'. Crank about 30 seconds and then let the starter cool for about 2 min. I would bet it will start before you get all 4 bled!! I put an older 12V back together and it tried to start with just 2 cyl firing!! It did with 3!! If your engine starts but won't smooth out like normal, go ahead and bleed the last or remaining lines. Getting all the air out should have it purring like normal!!
Let us know how it turns out!!
Dan :5:

my truck wasnt running befor this happened it died on the road before that is was sputting and stuff so when it got to my house i took off the banjo bolt and click the starter and nothing was coming out so i bought the air dog and it didnt fix it im going to get my friend code reader and see what is on there now. :argh:

sorry bud, but its tiem to shell out some money. if it died and u had no fule coming out at all at the lines right after wards, its time to buy a new vp44. sorry to give ya the bad news :(

i have fuel coming out of the lines when i bleed them how much should i see when cranking on it could it be a sensor thats not leting my truck start

just becaus eit has fuel coming out, dont mean it has enough pressure.

P1693 has nothing to do with say the injection pump. It's only a companion code, indicating another code ;)

well i got the codes checked by a ob something 2 the good one. I pulled up 9 codes 1st through last-P1693-P0237-P0122-P1698-P1689 i had two for some of them like the P0237 and the P0122. Can any one tell me how to fix this and what they are.

Kinda off for no start trouble codes. Could be a failed pump, could be a failed ECM.

Basic codes 237 is a map sensor performance
122 is a TPS/APPS performance
1689 is no communication between ecm and pump.

i did the apps adjustment like a week ago it was a .3 something and it is suposed to be a .555 no its at .52. how can i fix the 1689 i heard it could be a bad or lose connection but where do i start. what is the 1698? and how much fuel is supposed to come out during the bleeding, i have only done the 1st 3rd and 4th should i do more?

The pump may not be producing enough volume, Check all connections at the VP44.
I bleed all my lines except for 2 thats behind the intake horn. Turn it over may take upto 5-10 minutes of cranking time in some cases. Always try and start for 30-45 seconds and let the starter cool atleast 5 minutes. Tighten the lines and try again. Clear all codes before trying to start!

I've got a tester I rent out to make sure the VP-44 is the problem and not the ECM, let me know if you need it!

The number of codes would lead me to think failed ECM or PCM but not always the case!

i check the voltage to the injection pump and it was 12 volts is there any way i can see if it my ecm or anything i can do to fix it:argh:

Where are you at in NC

im in manteo a bridge away from nages head

There's some guys that run around that area, I'm sure they would be glad to help.
I'll also be glad to send you the tester to rule out the ECM causing issue.

im just going to try to borrow a buddys ecm he has the same truck

check your ground for your ECM too, also sometimes the OBII wont give correct codes for a cummins, especially the autozone rented ones. It showed all sorts of wierd ones on mine, good luck, i hope it aint the VP, thats an expensive fix.

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keep in mind that ecms are VIN specific, itll start but will show several check engine lights

I would start with the simple stuff. Make sure all connections are clean, corrosion free and tight. All of them!! A bad ground (Either on the main battery cables or even in a sensor connection or the ECM itself) can cause all sorts of strange, wild or even no start conditions. When you are checking wiring, look at every connector you can find. If there is a problem in one of the circuits the codes reference, it could cause this no start. It might be a long shot; but, it would well worth your time to check all of this first as it is much cheaper. Besides, if it is the problem, you will have fixed it!
I would also go ahead and bleed all the injectors. You might as well as get rid of all the air you can.
Keep us advised what you find.
Dan

Sounds like you have a lot more problems than I had but ill throw in my experience here for whom it may be useful to. I installed a fass 150 on my truck and went through the whole key bump priming process and still no start. All I did was crack the line at the IP and cranked till fuel came out then tightened it and cranked some more and no start, so I cracked the line again and did the same process over and over till no more air would come out when I cracked the line. Then I just kept cranking for bout 20 seconds and then give the starter a break until it fired up. NOTE: when you crack the line and the air comes out, that's not all the air. Likely there will be more air before the IP it just hasn't reached the IP yet, hence the cranking, cracking, tightening, and so on. Once I cracked it and absolutely no air came out, that's when I cranked it for another 20 seconds then fired up. It idled pretty rough for about 10 seconds due to air in the injectors I'm assuming. But that's my experience. I know all that cranking isn't the smartest/safest way to do it but its just what I did. Hope you figure it out.:argh:

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Millco, do you know a Kassi Bollinger from chubbuck/Pocatello?