bleeding injectors
#21
check your ground for your ECM too, also sometimes the OBII wont give correct codes for a cummins, especially the autozone rented ones. It showed all sorts of wierd ones on mine, good luck, i hope it aint the VP, thats an expensive fix.
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keep in mind that ecms are VIN specific, itll start but will show several check engine lights
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keep in mind that ecms are VIN specific, itll start but will show several check engine lights
Last edited by dukeboy_318; 09-30-2009 at 07:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#22
I would start with the simple stuff. Make sure all connections are clean, corrosion free and tight. All of them!! A bad ground (Either on the main battery cables or even in a sensor connection or the ECM itself) can cause all sorts of strange, wild or even no start conditions. When you are checking wiring, look at every connector you can find. If there is a problem in one of the circuits the codes reference, it could cause this no start. It might be a long shot; but, it would well worth your time to check all of this first as it is much cheaper. Besides, if it is the problem, you will have fixed it!
I would also go ahead and bleed all the injectors. You might as well as get rid of all the air you can.
Keep us advised what you find.
Dan
I would also go ahead and bleed all the injectors. You might as well as get rid of all the air you can.
Keep us advised what you find.
Dan
#23
Sounds like you have a lot more problems than I had but ill throw in my experience here for whom it may be useful to. I installed a fass 150 on my truck and went through the whole key bump priming process and still no start. All I did was crack the line at the IP and cranked till fuel came out then tightened it and cranked some more and no start, so I cracked the line again and did the same process over and over till no more air would come out when I cracked the line. Then I just kept cranking for bout 20 seconds and then give the starter a break until it fired up. NOTE: when you crack the line and the air comes out, that's not all the air. Likely there will be more air before the IP it just hasn't reached the IP yet, hence the cranking, cracking, tightening, and so on. Once I cracked it and absolutely no air came out, that's when I cranked it for another 20 seconds then fired up. It idled pretty rough for about 10 seconds due to air in the injectors I'm assuming. But that's my experience. I know all that cranking isn't the smartest/safest way to do it but its just what I did. Hope you figure it out.
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Millco, do you know a Kassi Bollinger from chubbuck/Pocatello?
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I would start with the simple stuff. Make sure all connections are clean, corrosion free and tight. All of them!! A bad ground (Either on the main battery cables or even in a sensor connection or the ECM itself) can cause all sorts of strange, wild or even no start conditions. When you are checking wiring, look at every connector you can find. If there is a problem in one of the circuits the codes reference, it could cause this no start. It might be a long shot; but, it would well worth your time to check all of this first as it is much cheaper. Besides, if it is the problem, you will have fixed it!
I would also go ahead and bleed all the injectors. You might as well as get rid of all the air you can.
Keep us advised what you find.
Dan
I would also go ahead and bleed all the injectors. You might as well as get rid of all the air you can.
Keep us advised what you find.
Dan
Millco, do you know a Kassi Bollinger from chubbuck/Pocatello?
Last edited by jdepuy618; 08-03-2013 at 05:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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