Transfer case pops out of gear
 

My transfer case jumps out of gear when I tow anything, and lately it has been doing it unloaded while going up a hill. It only pops out when I am in fourth gear, too. I have been told that the plastic pads on the range fork are worn out. I pulled the PTO cover off the case and looked for damage. I cannot see anything damaged, and the pads I can see look fine. I am currently pulling the PTO covers off the tranny to see if there is anything obvious in there, like maybe a bunch of metal shavings. Any ideas about what to do next?

If it was only in low range i would say the low range gear was worn or damaged but since it's all the time theres only three things that would cause it:

Shift linkage loose or binding
Shift linkage out of adjustment
OR Range fork is messed up, Binding on the shift rail or the inserts are worn and allowing it to jump the fork.

has it been adjusted? Here's the procedure:
Shift Linkage Adjustment
Move shift lever into 2H position.
Raise vehicle.
Loosen shift rod lock bolt at trunnion.
Check shift rod fit in trunnion. Be sure rod does not bind in trunnion.
Verify that transfer case shift lever is in 2H position. The 2H position on the transfer case shift arm is the second position from full forward.
Lower vehicle.
Position the shift lever on the cab such that the distance from the instrument panel to the 2H position dot in the shift lever insert is 14.6 cm (5.75 inch) . Ensure that the measurement is made parallel to the floor of the vehicle.
Tighten shift rod lock bolt to 10 Nm (90 inch lbs.) torque.
Check shift linkage operation. Be sure transfer case shifts into and operates properly in all ranges.

T-case is wore out. Also got paper thin bearings that get enough slack to cause problems.

I do not think the shift linkage is out of adjustment, since I have not adjusted it, and there are not any more marks on the rod from the set screw. I will go out and measure the 2 hi location now. What point on the instrument panel do I measure from? So, the next step is to tear down the case and check the fork and inserts out? What does a complete rebuild cost on one of these things? I may just pull it and take it somewhere.:ouch:

In all honesty the other comment regarding these cases is very true, If you have eliminated all the other options , I would say he's correct. You can get it built by just about any 4x4 shop of any caliber with higher quality parts.

Parts and labor they are about 400.00 to 500.00 to rebuild with better stuff.Had mine done 3 months ago seals,check the chain,bearings. That is with him taking it out.o and a new yoke on the drive shaft and ATF+4.

The shifter was about one inch too far rearward. I adjusted it to 5.75 inches. I am calling a transmission shop tomorrow for a quote. I would rather do it once and right than pull it apart twice for something else later.

did it help when you adjusted it

I won't know until I drive to work in the morning. I doubt it, because the detents are in the case, not the shifter assembly. We will see.

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No difference after adjusting the shifter. I talked to a couple of tranny shops today, and they both said the same thing. Range fork is worn out/bent. On one hand I want to just pull it apart and replace the range fork, but on the other I don't want to miss something else worn out and pull the case again. What all do I need to replace the fork, as far as tools? Is it a difficult job?

its a very easy task, i had to swap gears and bearings from my 242dld into my current 241 dhd and it was about a 3 hour job from start to finish, very easy to take apart if you havent done it before it will take a bit longer. if you put all the parts back in were they went you wont have an issue

x2 Its not hard to tear these apart.

I would say that your input shaft and the sliding shaft that locks it into 4hi is probably bad. The pads being worn can cause the shaft to not engage the splines fully and they can partially shear which will also cause it to jump out of gear. I know cause that happened to me beginning of the year. Mine jumped out of gear so hard it broke the collar and trashed the fork.

You might be better off finding another transfer case. or swapping in a 271.

So, this could be a fairly easy task, or it could be a major rebuild? What is the 271? Is it a heavier case? What did they come stock in? I might be better off taking it to somebody.

271s came in the 03 and newer Dodges. It was also used in late model Fords. It is a bigger heavier transmission that will require some driveshaft work and a bit of clearancing on the frame rail. I have a thread about it on here somewhere that has a few pictures. It's not that hard if you are fairly mechanical inclined.

Or else you could just find a another 241(which is what you have). The problem you might have is how many parts are junked. On mine the cost of the parts would have exceeded the cost of a rebuilt one. So thats why I swapped in the 271.

If its cheaper to rebuild yours than I would say do that. The strength of the 271 really isn't needed unless your doing some high horsepower stuff. I see 241 in the classifieds for 400-500. The cost of my 271 swap ended up being about 1k or so with the driveshaft work.

I made over 800 on my factory 241, but it was probably on it's last legs!

The shop I will probably use wants 250 plus parts. A master rebuild kit is around 500, I believe.

I have a transfer case saver ordered from quad4x4, and as soon as I can save a few more pennies I am gonna pull it and have it rebuilt. Anything I should have them do, or certain parts I should go ahead and get?

I pulled and disassembled the case last night. The pads on the mode fork were worn, and one was cracked, the sliding clutch and stop ring have some damage from the gear grinding under load, the input shaft bearing came out in pieces. The cage that holds the ball bearings is GONE! Well, not gone, but attached to the magnet in the form of a furry metal mess. Nothing else seemed damaged, but I am going to replace the thrust washers in the planetary just in case. The other bearings look good. All you need to disassemble this case is a set of sockets and a good pair of snap ring pliers. It just comes right apart.

All right. Everything has been re assembled and running for a while. No problems, and it shifts in and out of gear better than it ever has before.:rocking:

sweet. Congrats

when the t case is on its way out , does it pop and clunk when under pressure ? mine does it in 4lo and 4hi . i think thats whats going on with mine .

It may. Does it pop out of gear, or just make the clunking sounds?

4x4 issues
 

Guys I am having some issues as well with my 2001 4x4 quad cab cummins
I just had a level kit put on the truck and now the 4x4 selector will not shift properly
no 4x4 light or 4x4. I can just push the lever back and forth with no change.
I can push up to 4lo and it seems to go into 4x4 but only for a moment.
Shift lever does not feel correct and I have no 4x4 any sugestions
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!!

my truck jumps in to neutral on deceleration with big load and a freind told me the 241s snapling on tailshaft comes loose. he said there is a updated snap ring, but that is just what i was told.

First check the vacuum lines from front to back for any breaks.

did you check the output shaft snap ring on the transfer case? A broken snap ring can cause the tcase to pop out of gear. I got one of these,Transfer case saver, don't leave home without it, DIY and save money! - Drivetrain.com.

You might need to adjust the linkage under the truck. There is one bolt to loosen and then you adjust the rod so it shifts into all ranges properly. It shouldn't have messed with your adjustment much but you never know.