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150k mile valve lash adjustment necessary??
I noticed in my service manual a recommended 150k mile valve lash adjustment. Can anyone weigh in and let me know your opinion if this is necessary or not. Has anyone done this and just found the valves to be in the specified range and not need adjustment or do they tend to need to be adjusted. I just don't like taking things apart unless needed and don't like taking my truck to a shop.
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i reccomend it, most of the trucks ive dealt with have had to have them adjusted
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Do it......I think 150 is too long! Did mine at 90 and they were off along with 3 other trucks all around 90-110....fixin to do mine again at 140!
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Yes, it needs to be done, 150k is too long. Definitely. Also, personally, if I take the time and initiative to take the valve cover off and turn the engine to check the valves, I will just go ahead and adjust them whether they are in spec or not. :U:
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- I dont think an overhead is something one could do too much |
Thanks guys....now I know what I'll be doin on my next day off, I'm hopin maybe it'll quiet down the engine noise also.
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Anytime! Spec is .010 intake and .020 exh. It will likely quiet your engine noise, but an overhead set is something that if you do it wrong, it will make noise and performance sooo much worse-I have seen it several times while I was in tech school-so be careful!!!
A big thing with this procedure is to keep the adjustment very consistent throughout all the rockers. :rocking: |
Myself I did mine at 90K miles and had a few valve off... It is suggested to be done at 150K miles which I think is too far down the road. Mine where out of adjustment a bit at 92K miles. So this is how I did my valve adjustment on my truck. Valve adjustment is fairly simple to do and does require much for tools. You need a feeler gauge set (0.010 and 0.020), 9/16" box wrench, 10mm short socket, 15/16" socket, both 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets, Allen wrench and a mirror. The first thing you need to do is pull the valve cover off the engine. You'll need a 10mm short socket and a 3/8" ratchet. Loosen all the bolt till you can lift the bolt up. Don't bother removing the bolts from the valve cover. Once you got that the valve cover will come off on the passenger side. You got to slide it towards the turbo and work it over the top of the heater hose. Take your time is will go... Now you need to use your 1/2" ratchet and the 15/16" socket to rotate the alternator. You want to turn it towards the passenger side (or towards coolant bottle). You want to get the gear to be in the TDC (Top Dead Center) like in the picture above. Now you'll start adjusting valves. But you can adjust all of them right now. Intake valves 1, 2, 4 and Exhaust valves 1, 3, 5 which I've circled for you. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/c...adjustment.jpg Using a feeler gauge you want to adjust all intake valves to 0.010" gap and all exhaust valves to 0.020" gap. You'll be inserting the feeler gauge like shown. This is the part you got to take your time on. As you'll notice as you tighten up your adjustment screw the feeler gauges seems to be pinched in-between but try to hold the feeler gauge flat you'll notice it get loose again. So take your time... Now when you get ready to tighten the lock nut finger spin it tight. Then as you tighten the nut you go to hold the adjustment screw still. But if you notice your gap is loose twist both nut and screw tighten a little bit. Or twist the adjustment screw loosen as you tighten the nut. This will increase or decrease the gap a little but not much. Now that you done this set now you go to do the other half of the valves. So now twist the alternator some more till you see (BDC -Bottom Dead Center) for the VP44 pump gear. Now adjust the the rest of the valves. Intakes 3, 5, 6 and Exhaust 2, 4, 6. They are marked in the picture below. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/c...adjustment.jpg Double check all the jam nuts that they are TIGHT! You now have completed a valve adjustment on you engine. Now you got to reassemble the valve cover. Replace the gasket if it damaged. Then remount the breather cover on the gear case and hook up the vent tube. You'll hear a slight difference when you start the truck up. It going to be a bit quieter. Let it idle a bit and double check your valve cover for leaks. For whole write up it here... Valve Adjustment |
If you don't feel like taking the crankcase breather off you can also do it by opposite pairs. IN (most not all) inline-6 you have 2 cylinders that are in the SAME position moving the SAME direction. The only difference is they are on different strokes. IE. one is on the Exhaust stroke the other is on compression.
To find the order you take the firing order of the engine (in this case) 1-5-3-6-2-4. Now all you do is split the order in half and move the second half under the first so they pair up like this: 1-6/ 5-2/ 3-4. So all you have to do now is turn the engine until cyl #1 is on the exhaust stroke. Try to get it near TDC so that its in valve overlap(both intake and exhaust rockers are tight) Cyl #6 is now on the compression stroke so both valves will be loose. and you can adjust both of them. Now you can turn the engine until cyl #5 is in valve overlap and adjust cyl #2. Continue down the firing order until they are all adjusted. The above method will work for just about any inline engine with an even # of cyl. Though be careful. There are a few oddballs out there. |
Like when I did my buddy 92 Dodge... The timing pin is frozen so I use the alternator to roll the engine. But It rolling backwards. So after the intake closes on a cylinder there is a long period that both valve remain close so I roll to the middle of that and get TDC for each cylinder and set the lash...
It works good that way too...:w2: |
I did mine at 130,000 and did not notice to much of a difference. I guess it all depends on what you think.
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