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-   -   Lift pump issues (https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-valve-2nd-gen-dodge-cummins-98-5-02/135875-lift-pump-issues.html)

BOOTLEG012500 01-19-2019 09:08 AM

Lift pump issues
 
Hey guys, so my lift pump just started to hang at 5-7 psi at idle and dropping to 0-1 if I stomp on the throttle obviously I don’t stomp on the throttle and been driving my Jeep instead. I bought an Airtex E7153 replacement pump for the truck and I have already added a big line kit from the filter to the VP. Has anyone done a big line from the lift pump to the filter? Also since I’m getting into the fuel system should I modify a tank pickup? I’m not trying to spend a small fortune but since I’m gonna be tearing into it thoughts? Also I don’t ever plan on putting a chip or big injectors in it I’m solely keeping it as a daily driver I have a Jeep to play with and eventually that’s gonna have a 4BT in it. So any help or advice y’all can give me about keeping enough fuel flowing to the VP would be awesome. I’ve read some threads and there’s a lot of good input I’ve already fixed my door, and over head console, cup holder, and glovebox from here. So I’m happy I found a good forum!!

MBFD 592 01-25-2019 05:06 PM

Just make sure to keep at least 14 PSI to your VP pump.

vineyardm 01-25-2019 08:24 PM

Those pumps look similar to the crappy pump originally installed.

Some actions - Mount the pump low on the truck bed rail - close to the tank. Lift pumps push better than 'suck' - and will perform better at a low location, closer to the tank.
Consider putting on a pressure switch that turns on a Red LED if the fuel pressure drops below 10 psig. Ensure you have a fuel pressure gauge to monitor what the fuel pump pressure is. (A pressure switch is cheaper and will get your attention quickly. BUT - a pressure gauge can help you see if your pump is starting to fail.
Consider upgrading - at least a FASS or DRRP - they have better characteristics.

ALSO - for a 'suspenders and belt' approach - keep your Airtex pump - and mount it near by the FASS, DRRP or better pump - and have the ability to move plumbing and electrical from one pump to the other if you have a failure. I have heard of plenty of people that would have been stranded for a day or so...would need an expensive tow - when their lift pump failed. Having a back up ON THE RAIL - and a plan to move plumbing - might get you back on the road in 2 to 4 hours (depending on what sort of disconnects you use - both plumbing and electrical.)

BOOTLEG012500 02-06-2019 06:34 AM

Vineyardm Great advice and I will do that in the near future as right now I just put the airtex in where the orginal was, but I feel like I'm gonna need to move it and/or change the original fuel lines in the truck up to the lift pump as the pressure drops to 4-5 psi at WOT and even just easing into it it drops to 10psi which from what little I know it should only drop 3-5 psi easing into it and about 7psi WOT if I'm not mistaken? I have heard people swapping out the draw straw is there a benefit to this or would it be better to replace all the lines to 3/8in or 1/2in and do the draw straw as well and put in another pump back by the tank?

MBFD 592 I have 17-18psi at idle but it drops huge to 3-5 at WOT and just easing into it it drops to 10 psi these numbers seem low compaired to others stories and input on where a good range is, but also most of the opinions I've heard everyone has upgraded the entire fuel system including lines and a sump or draw straw. I'm trying to be cost effective but not so cheap I burn up the VP. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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