Flex Plate selection
Anyone have a thought on a good flex plate for a 2001 Dodge 5.9 Cummns with a 47RE? I don't see the need for a billet one I just need a better thicker one than stock:humm:. It is just my daily driver that pulls a little 16' trailer. Any thought would help me out a lot!!:tu:
Thanks, Steve |
There some stiffener plates out there that just require a few weld tacks. Avoid the thicker stamped steel units. Most are from china and are of bad quality. Unless someone knows of a proven unit of such steer clear. I have not seen a complete unit be of good quality unless its billet but, perhaps if there is someone will know.
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I just read your signature. I would have suggested only the billet with a triple. Those have a solid apply piston so they dont have a dampener. This is very hard on a stamped steel unit. Notice my sig, I run a billet unit but I put a regular type piston in mine for this reason and also to help save my input shaft.
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I just seen a Flex Plate on MTS website. What do you think of this one? Alos I couldnt find a weld on one anywhere. Hmmm?
It is their F2-5.9 $195 3 Times Thicker than OEM SFI Rated Flexplate Designed to handle extreme duty applications Designed to take the punishment of high horepower engines 4mm thick centerplate Ring gears are precision robotic welded with cold welding process |
It looks just like the units I use to sell and they are very bad. The issue is the tabs that center the OD of the crank flange is WAY off and loose. My advice is to steer clear. I sent all mine back to the vendor years ago. This is just my experience with a product that looked identical.
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Originally Posted by AmericanHotRodSolutions
(Post 1139685)
I just read your signature. I would have suggested only the billet with a triple. Those have a solid apply piston so they dont have a dampener. This is very hard on a stamped steel unit. Notice my sig, I run a billet unit but I put a regular type piston in mine for this reason and also to help save my input shaft.
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Also should I go to a 1800 stall or a 2000 stall?
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There is nothing wrong with a triple. I avoided that due to customers breaking input shafts when lock up came on. Granted this is with huge HP, and 4x4. My plan has been to be over 500 HP so I went with a single and a non billet piston so I could have a dampener spring type piston. I had a core laying around so I cut it open while building mine billet unit. I also put a better friction on the OEM piston to. Anyway, my thought was that its way better to slip and damage the clutch then to twist off an input shaft that is WAY more expansive then me cutting my converter back open.
As far as the upgrades in the trans go how much HP to you make and what is already done to it. Also what OD tire? Are you having any issue with it now. |
Originally Posted by AmericanHotRodSolutions
(Post 1139698)
There is nothing wrong with a triple. I avoided that due to customers breaking input shafts when lock up came on. Granted this is with huge HP, and 4x4. My plan has been to be over 500 HP so I went with a single and a non billet piston so I could have a dampener spring type piston. I had a core laying around so I cut it open while building mine billet unit. I also put a better friction on the OEM piston to. Anyway, my thought was that its way better to slip and damage the clutch then to twist off an input shaft that is WAY more expansive then me cutting my converter back open.
As far as the upgrades in the trans go how much HP to you make and what is already done to it. Also what OD tire? Are you having any issue with it now. |
Why the rebuild? If its working no sense in doing that. If what you have works for you then I would not suggest changing anything, they can make the shifts easier too. A triple is good if towing real heavy and you have a lot of torque. The triple is a preference, nothing really wrong with them. I chose not to due to the way I wanted to run my rig, hence I am afraid of breaking my input shaft with such a strong lock up.
Anyway, back to why you are rebuilding it, did it break??? |
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