Alright, so a little pressure test. As in could only do a little. Found a couple couplers, just tightened them a couple turns, and sealed up. The big one, is the intake. The gasket between the large intake that bolts to the head, and the thinner flat, long horizontal plate. Those are very technical descriptions! Pretty fast leak, at the back edge of it. So once that gets changed, we'll go back to rechecking the pressure, yay! :choochoo:

So how bad is that to change? Only part Im concerned about is the 3 bolt deal, right next to the APPS, just unbolt it, or? And figure a new gasket on the air horn.

As for the exh, yes there's at least one crack, and its getting longer. Was looking at both piking up another low mile used on, or an ATS (ouch!)

What is powering the Holly pump? Is it on continious with the ingnition? The vp's dont like to be pressured alot when starting. I have my Pusher pump relayed into the stock lp wire. When I key on I can hear it prime for just a second and then shuts off until I start the truck. Then its a constant flow BUT Above 5 psi i believe when starting will cause a hard start.

The truck was at one time converted to intank LP. Thets bypasses with a drawstraw and 1/2" hose feeding the holley on the frame rail, back by the tank. The relay that was put in for the intank, now drives the holley only, and the intank POS plugs the big hole in the top of the tank!

That's exactly how it should all be set up.:U:

I love dealerships... Nothing in stock, and more than double of the Cummins center in Denver.

1 check valve banjo deal
1 intake gasket
2 grid heater/horn gaskets

Looks like shipped is less than the "we can special order these parts in" guys were on the banjo itself!

Hopefully, Ill tear into this tommorrow and move ahead. Also, found a place that carries the crank sensor, MAP, and IAT, each one for less than 50 each. APPS is still pricey, so hopefully its not that one!

You can test all these sensors to see if they are good or not before you throw money at it. You can also test the regulator valve.

The valve/Banjo, just pull it out and put a nail or somethin up into it and push down on a semi accurate scale. It should be open at about 4 pounds of pressure down on it.

The Apps and all the other sensors are easy to test with an Ohm meter.

Checked out the APPS, I havent checked the others, yet. For the 25 the ball valve deal cost, I figured just replace it. the truck had a new VP on it when I bought it, it lasted 5k miles, yay! This ones been on for ~40-45k now,. Who knows, if ever that valve has been changed.

When My APPS went out it started just fine, The trick was having it in drive and having NO throttle. not sure if APPS would prevent starting....hows the fuel filter?

Just did the fuel filter, it was dirty, so brought up my fuel pressure 1-2 psi. No change in starting.

Would a bad intake leak maybe cause an issue starting? Im going to get after the ohm meter on these other sensors, and see if I find anything. And while Im inthere, swapping in new contacts on the starter! :choochoo:

The problem of a leaky intake is gonna be the introduction of non filtered air into your engine and loss of Boost. But shouldn't affect starting any. I'm holdin out hope that when you clean up, change and test sensors your gonna find you hard starting problem. If not then we move back to the fuel system.