24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps
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24v no power (deal pedal?) when cold, gets better while driving

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Old 02-27-2017, 06:02 PM
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Question 24v no power (deal pedal?) when cold, gets better while driving

Hey guys, 02 Ram 2500 CTD with stock auto trans and only update I have done is installed an upgrade LP as recommended by anyone with a 24v. Truck starts and idles amazing. The idle (and lights) does surge a little when cold and first started, I'm guessing from the intake heaters. Not that worried about that. I usually let it warm up for like 10-15 minutes here now that it's warmer outside between 15-30 degrees F. If I feel it needs to idle much longer than 10 minutes I have crafted a device (I broke a piece of lath to the length needed) to put between the go pedal and the seat adjustment handle to hold the RPMs just over 1000 since my truck's cold climate idle enhancement feature isn't activated. When I start to drive if it's very cold out, The truck responds almost perfect up to about 20mph then I get a suddenly dead pedal. I almost know the exact spot down the road it will happen every morning. I can let off the throttle and put it in neutral, rev it up once (not even that much) and put it back into drive and usually drive away fine. Sometimes I have to do that a couple times. Once it is warm I almost never have a driveability issue, even after a restart or the truck being parked for a couple hours. I would say maybe one time, for a period of like 3 seconds, every few days, will I lose pedal after it has warmed up. I do have stored codes 0216 and 0234 but no CEL has come on since I have owned it which has only been a couple months now. I know everyone says 0216 means your VP IS 100% SHOT but I find it hard to believe, as I have also read that a weak LP can cause IP timing codes etc. Blue Chip Diesel I have read from also believes 0216 does not mean you need a new VP. Any insight on this would be great.
 

Last edited by hillboy73; 02-27-2017 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 02-27-2017, 10:07 PM
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Hey so I've had a problem kinda like that before. I would get up to 25 ish and my trans would not shift, throttle would not accelerate therfore wouldn't shift. I unhooked my batteries cleaned all grounds and reset the apps and have never had an issue since. I went through fuel system, had trans flushed, pressure tested before I did the battery and apps. Kinda pissed me off after I did that. Good luck
 
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Old 02-28-2017, 08:26 AM
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Thanks I will give it a try, I do have brand new batteries and I thought the terminals looked clean, but it is worth a try. I did try an APPS reset once, but I don't know thay the system drained enough when I did it as my radio station presets were still there. I will try again and update
 
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:43 AM
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Its not necessarily the battery terminals. Tyson was referring to the multiple body and chassis ground straps. These trucks are very sensitive to electrical interferene and corroded or dirty grounds are sometimes the problem. Could also just be that the trans is trying to shift but the cold fluid is still too thick for a smooth shift. When was the last time trans fluid and filter was changed and bands adjusted? I do mine every 40k.
 
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:17 PM
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I will try locating and cleaning those also. The transmission seems to shift and there is throttle "response" at all times, just no power behind it. When it is acting up I can still accelerate slowly on flat surfaces, but I lose speed uphill. I have noticed it does it more often when I try to drive up hill...I can feel it accelerating just fine and the turbo start spooling then "blahhhhhhh" no power like I am holding the brakes and I either make everyone made behind me by going super slow, or pull over and let it idle in neutral for a bit then it usually​​​​​​​ drives away just fine. It is more prominent the colder the ambient temperature is, and occurs more often while the engine is warm when it is coldest outside. It seems once it is above 30 degrees out I have no problems after the engine has fully warmed. I do have a stored 0234 code for map sensor but since I have owned it have not seen the check engine light, does that matter? If I have an overboost will it throw a CEL every time? I can't seem to find my map sensor even...I see pictures everyone says its kinda along the top drivers side of the engine in front of the IAC sensor, but mine is not. There is a sensor way dow behind my fuel filter housing that closest resembles a map, but that's it. I have tried heating my vp44 computer with a hair dryer before leaving first drive of the day, but didn't notice any change. I am also waiting for my fuel levels to drop in my tank to see if the speed at which the fuel warms up has anything to do with it. It seems my lack of power possibly lasts longer the fuller my tank is (more fuel to warm up).

​​​​​​​And for what it matters, it is about 26mph every time when it is cold that it does this.
 

Last edited by hillboy73; 03-03-2017 at 12:40 PM. Reason: additional info
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Old 09-06-2018, 09:17 PM
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Just thought I would finalize this post by adding, it was, in fact...that the injection pump was bad. Once I removed it I could actually move the shaft in and out enough that I could feel it knock in my hand slightly. Put a different pump in and off she went.
 
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