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-   -   Truck wont start in Park (https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-valve-2nd-gen-dodge-cummins-98-5-02/126666-truck-wont-start-park.html)

doublehbar 04-29-2015 12:28 PM

Truck wont start in Park
 
Hoping someone can help me here. I recently did some swapping around with my APPS in an effort to rectify hunting in lower gears on my auto transmission. That didn't help the problem and to top it off when I went to turn the truck off after test drive it wouldn't engage in park. Finally got it forced into park and was able to turn the truck off. Tried to start it again and it wouldn't start. I put the truck into neutral and it fired right up.

Little background. Truck is a 99' 3500 4x4 with the 24v. 309k miles on it right now. The transmission was replaced at 137,000ish miles by a private shop. To the best of my knowledge, my ex never did any maintenance on the tranny after it was replaced. So with all that being said, here is my question.

Will replacing filter and fluid on the tranny help? Shift linkage adjustment? Or is the potentially something major?

Hoping none of this sounds too vague. I'm still a work in progress on learning this truck and how to fix everything, but I am trying.:up2:

gh0stman 04-30-2015 04:46 AM

I think your shifter linkage needs adjusting. Because as it sits right now it isn't going into park and the neutral safety switch isn't being triggered in park.

doublehbar 04-30-2015 07:54 AM


Originally Posted by gh0stman (Post 1091449)
I think your shifter linkage needs adjusting. Because as it sits right now it isn't going into park and the neutral safety switch isn't being triggered in park.

Thanks so much for your reply! I am in the process of changing the transmission filter and fluid. When I get that all wrapped up I am headed to the neighbors for use of his shop and cooler tools to mess with the shift linkage. Is it pretty self explanatory when you get in there on how to do it, or do I need to do some homework first?

gh0stman 04-30-2015 07:57 AM

Home work is always a plus. I would google it and see about 47re shifter adjustment. And while you are down there check out your TV cable for adjustment too. If that's your issue it will feel like a brand new truck.

doublehbar 04-30-2015 08:07 AM


Originally Posted by gh0stman (Post 1091455)
Home work is always a plus. I would google it and see about 47re shifter adjustment. And while you are down there check out your TV cable for adjustment too. If that's your issue it will feel like a brand new truck.

Headed off to do homework while I drink some coffee. Can't thank you enough for your info!

gh0stman 04-30-2015 08:16 AM

No problem rather it be done right and fix/teach, than it tear up.

doublehbar 04-30-2015 08:20 AM

This may sound like a stupid question, but I have to ask anyway. Are the basic mechanics the same in a transmission for a 3500, as say they are in a 1500? I found a pretty decent write up on what I need to do here, but its for a 1500.

gh0stman 04-30-2015 08:22 AM

I would say yes

doublehbar 05-26-2015 02:05 PM

Hey Ghostman. Hoping you are around today. Finally got to the front band adjustment on my truck today(long story). Finally got the locknut loosened, and now I have what I think may be a problem. The adj screw doesn't want to get tight. It wants to feed all the way down in the locknut with no stopping point. I only backed the locknut off a couple turns before attempting the adjustment because the adjustment screw was spinning freely. The only thing that I think I may have screwed up on is not holding the locknut as I tried to tighten the adj screw. Is that my problem here, or is it something else?

Jet A Fuel 05-26-2015 11:55 PM

5 Attachment(s)
I think the spade may have fallen off the adjustment stud. or the band is worn out.
Not to worry both can be fixed here are some pictures of what i am talking about.
Is your pan off and valve body removed?

does the adjustment screw look like this?

Attachment 31504

this is a normal picture of a good band.

Attachment 31505

this is adjusted way out

Attachment 31506

Hopefully your band still has some material on it and it doesnt look like this.

Attachment 31507

Here is a picture of the end of the band with just the pan off.

Attachment 31508


Not to worry it can all be fixed without pulling the trans let us know what you find and we can help.:tu:

doublehbar 05-27-2015 10:09 AM

Hey. Thanks for the reply, especially with pics. That will come in handy. The adjustment screw looked just like you posted. I backed it out to where it was again, until I was able to get a reply on here. I don't have the pan off because I just changed filter and fluid on it. Should I drop the pan to get a look at what's going on inside?

gh0stman 05-27-2015 10:30 AM

Sorry just got on here. Did you adjust the rear band as well? If you did then theres no reason to open the pan till next service date.

doublehbar 05-27-2015 10:39 AM

Quite alright. I did adjust the rear band but I am fearful that I may have misread inch lbs as ft lbs. So in light of this and my current situation I am thinking it may be smart to drop the pan again. Perfect time to install the drain plug that I forgot to install the first time around.

gh0stman 05-27-2015 10:40 AM

yeah if you ft/lb'd it you want to take the pan off.

doublehbar 05-27-2015 10:51 AM

Ok. I am going to go ahead and drop the pan and check everything again. I will check back with you guys in a little bit.

doublehbar 05-27-2015 04:36 PM

Alright guys. I've got the pan dropped. Now where do I go from here? I am seriously a rookie here. So any suggestions are much appreciated.

Jet A Fuel 05-27-2015 10:38 PM

1 Attachment(s)
In this picture you can see the band it is near the shift lever. It is the strap that goes around the clutch pack drum. If your adjustment stud looked like the one in the previous picture it is probably time for a band change. I can walk you through it but it will be a lengthy process explaining how to do it.
Just dropping the valve body there is a potential of loosing a check ball or needing to replace seals,valve body gaskets, and orings.
You will need a trans kit because the valve body gaskets will likely tear and normally don't get reused.
If the truck is shifting ok now leave it alone but I would suggest saving up for an overhauled trans.

Is the truck shifting into park now?

Attachment 31503

doublehbar 05-27-2015 11:08 PM

The truck is not shifting into park now. The transmission was replaced on this truck at 130k-140k miles and has had zero maintenance since. It's at 309k and some change.

Jet A Fuel 05-27-2015 11:50 PM

Sounds like a lot of miles with no fluid changes, how do you feel about doing a trans swap? We may fix the shifting problem with the front band but you will have some money in buying the trans kit/ band and the fluid and it may be wise to save that and put it towards a overhauled trans. It is very difficult to say whether or not this trans is "cooked".
When you drained the trans did it smell burnt? if the fluid has never been changed in 170K miles the seals may be hard (as in brittle) and if you put a new band in that may only get you by for a while.

gh0stman 05-28-2015 03:32 AM

I would say that transmission lead a good life.:ouch:

Jet A Fuel 05-28-2015 03:51 AM

Here is a good video check out at at about the 6 minute mark.


doublehbar 05-28-2015 07:20 PM

Gh0stman- Ha! Tell me about it. My ex was a no maintenancing son of a gun and I am learning that the hard way. Wish I would have come on here when I first took the truck over to see where I need to start.lol

So, with that being said.....Where do I begin?lol The truck has been failing to shift from 1-2 and I thought it might be a apps sensor because I have had trouble with that part off and on. I removed the apps and replaced with an older one to see if that would somehow help and give me something to go on. No codes. After this was replaced the truck wouldn't start unless in neutral and then wouldn't engage in park.

Jet A Fuel- I am not opposed to a trans swap in the future. Especially if I can swap it with a manual trans. I have to settle for milking it along for now though. Money aside, the place we are renting right now has no garage and no concrete in sight. I am doing this work on a tarp in the dirt.:argh: I need to get it up and rolling so I can drive my baby again and use it to move. Then hopefully be able to tear into it more when I have the space to do so. It needs a complete overhaul.

doublehbar 05-28-2015 07:33 PM

Jet- I actually just watched that video while I waited on some responses yesterday. Is it possible that the spade from that adj screw is up inside the valve body? The pan was fairly clean when I pulled it the first time, no noticeable chunks of anything. Just remembered I forgot to answer that the trans fluid didn't smell burnt. My neighbor who used to be a Jeep mechanic stopped by shortly after and said it didn't look terrible but definitely needed to be changed.

Jet A Fuel 05-29-2015 06:00 AM

If the spade fell off most likely it would be stuck to the magnet in the pan or laying in the pan. Anything is possible if it fell and rested on top the valve body, odds are it would vibrate down to the pan.

I would suppose that if the spade is still engaged with the band and the adjustment screw went in that far the band is shot and needs replaced.

With the pan off you should be able to use a long screwdriver to touch the band and see if its sloppy loose on that clutch drum.

The 1-2 shift solenoid has been a problem to as you can see in the video.

doublehbar 05-29-2015 11:46 PM

Replying on my phone, so hopefully this works.

I will have a chance to get under the truck tomorrow and see if I can get a feel for that band. I will report what I find. Sure hoping its not bad news. In the event the band is good...Do I go ahead and buy a trans kit, solenoids and all, so I can go on a treasure hunt under the valve body?

Jet A Fuel 05-29-2015 11:54 PM

you should be able to use a magnet to retrieve it without dropping the valve body keep your fingers crossed.
If you search for the shift solenoid p/n from the video on ebay you can purchase online. not sure if the parts stores have them where you live.
A trans kit would be 100 dollars or better it would be a good idea to purchase one and just pick out of it as you need it.:tu:

doublehbar 05-31-2015 11:17 PM

Alright. Finally checking in. Been a little busy around here. I had trouble locating the front band but took a long screw driver and kinda poked around where it should be. Whatever I was touching had a lot of slop in it and when I poked it again something fell on top of the valve body and no luck locating whatever it was with a magnet. I am guessing that means I am going to have to pull the valve body. Lucky me. Good news is that I received my mechanics repair manual yesterday, so hopefully its more help than the Haynes manual I have. Do you recommend buying a trans kit on ebay or is there a better place?

Jet A Fuel 05-31-2015 11:29 PM

That would be good or if you have a local mom and pop trans shop in town they usually are nice enough to sell you one.

doublehbar 05-31-2015 11:35 PM

Not certain on the trans shops here but I will see what I can find. Can't thank you enough for all your help!!

Jet A Fuel 06-01-2015 12:00 AM

Here's another link for your viewing pleasure. :rocking:

doublehbar 06-04-2015 04:03 PM

I have the truck running! Turns out the spade had fallen off the adj screw and was wedged on the frontside of the vb. I got it freed out of there and was able to reattach it without dropping the vb. That means I was equal parts sailor and surgeon. Took her on a test drive today and she ran beautiful. All problems have been resolved at this point!

Thank you to those of you that pitched in on this thread!!!

Jet A Fuel 06-04-2015 10:35 PM

:rocking:

gh0stman 06-05-2015 04:22 AM

Good deal.

JDurks2 06-05-2015 11:38 AM

That is awesome :playing:


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