Hey gang, I am new to the Cummins world and don't know anything. I recently purchased a 2000 QCSB that has the P pump swap already done to it. I have a really nasty oil leak coming from the inner timing gear case. After looking around on this forum, my guess is that the KDP fell and cracked the case. It appears the previous owner has already tried to repair it with some JB weld type of material, but it still leaks pretty bad. I am wondering which replacement case to buy- 12V or 24V? Thanks a bunch for any helpful input you may have.

Also, how big of a nightmare am I getting myself into when replacing this case? It looks like pulling the cam is the only way to get it done. Do you guys recommend pulling the motor or can I do the swap while motor is in the truck???

 

Its a job. Motor can be in the truck. Cam needs to come out. Sounds like the previous owner made a mess of things.

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Any input as to which case to replace it with? 12v or 24v

 

Should be replaced with 24v case if thats whats on it. Cpl should get you a part number at cummins. Pure diesel power also offers a cheaper aftermarket case.

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Negative. If it's p-pumped, you can absolutely use the 12v case.

 

It should get the case thats on it re installed is my point. Either case will work but it should be replaced with the case thats on it.

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What's your reasoning behind this? It makes no difference, whatsoever. In all probability, since it's already had a pump swap, it's more than likely got the 12v p7100 timing gear housing already on it. As a matter of practicality, the 12v timing case is a better option. They're generally cheaper, made specifically for the p-pump so modding a 24v case is superfluous, bolts right up without modifications and the timing cover bolts right up, iirc.

 

Rofl, get wound up often?
My reasoning is we always replace a part with the same part number that is currently in use to eliminate the need for modifications or changes (before you go saying the bolt patter is different read my post below.). In this case it may have a 12 or 24 case and as you stated it doesn't really make a difference, however the op would be able bolt up and go. No confusion about timing pin etc or other changes which may be required. I guess you missed the fact its a discussion board. Good luck trying to convince me of your logic :thumbup:
We all know that most switch to a 12v case. Im just saying considering the op is not asking about doing a swap just about replacing the current timing case he should replace with the timing case that is currently in place.

Ps we've seen quite a few folks around here drill and tap the case for the p pump. My point is replace the part with the parts originally used in the swap to prevent confusion and frustration. It doesnt matter which he uses.

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Easy, man. You don't need to pull the engine. Find TDC, pull the valve covers, rocker blocks and push rods (being mindful to keep everything organized so it can reinstalled in the same order it was removed. Use 12 1/2" dowels cut to 14" secured with zip ties to hold the lifters up so you can clear the cam. If you need more details on this, let me know, I'll walk you through it. Of course you need to remove the injector lines, intake horn, IP (get a good purchase on it, it's heavy), vacuum pump/ps pump, radiator, intercooler, crank pulley/harmonic balancer and anything else that is in the way or you feel will be better removed. Pull the cam now that it's free of the lifters. Go easy so you don't gouge cam bearings or dick up the lobes. Pull the case, find out what did it in, replace the case, kill the KDP (if it's even still there), throw it all back together the same way it came apart.

Sounds like a ton of work but it's really pretty easy and very straightforward.

This is about an hour and a half of work with hand tools. Securing the lifters was another 20-30 minutes worth of wrenching. Notice directly under the freeze plug where the dark spot is on the case. The KDP dropped and cracked the housing and the previous owner sealed it with a glob of RTV. This looks like a ton of work, but if you take your time and stay organized, it's stupid simple. Slow is smooth. Smooth is fast.


This is the KDP tabbed in with the new case and cam reinstalled. Notice the engine is out of the truck (evident by the shop door through the pump hole). I pulled the engine because I resealed the entire thing. Even after pulling the engine, replacing the timing case, resealing and pressure washing, the whole job took two 8-hour days.


You can do this. Have some confidence and dive in. Use a 12v timing case.

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Who's wound up? I'm sitting here sipping my tea and coming to the realization that you've probably never actually cracked the case on a Cummins. If the OP wants to follow your stupid advice and buy a case he has to drill and tap instead of paying less money for a case that drops right in, that's fine. His call. I doubt he'll compound the amount of work he has to do by listening to bad advice, though.

 

Hahaha..
You obviously are a true technician!

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Just incase you need proof. We "crack" about 3-4 trucks open every week.



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