Pretty new to the forum and I have done a lot of reading but before I pull the trigger on a few purchases I wanted to run it by you guys.

Not sure how to do a signature yet so here is my truck. 2001 Dodge 2500.

Going to be purchasing the Kore leveling kit(found one used for 250 at home) would like to also purchase the rear springs and matching Bilsteins.

Also looking to do this upgrade. Dodge Upgraded Steering Linkage
based on one of the posting on here. I do have factory 16" wheels which from my reading I think I will need to grind the parts a bit for clearance.

I will also get a new steering stabilizer. Do I need to get a new pitman arm?

My truck has a new steering box and factory style track bar. Replaced this before I new any better for the upgraded ones.

So looking for input/holes in my setup. Still have crappy steering and looking be a level, softer riding truck that steers better.

 

Here is some information that may be helpful.

Rebuild of the Trackbar?
by Michael Engle/Luke’s Link
Source: TURBO DIESEL REGISTER

Anyone who has experienced steering problems while
driving a Dodge pickup truck knows all too well the
symptoms: wandering or drifting and/or a shimmy, or
even a violent shake when hitting a bump, known as
the “death wobble.” When trying to identify the specific
problem, most people look to vehicle alignment, worn
ball joints, steering boxes, or even tires. However, don’t
overlook the real problem: the ends of the track bar.
For the novice that is new to four-wheel drive, the track
bar is the bar that sits under your differential and runs
from the axle to the frame. This bar acts as a stabilizer
to keep the truck tracking straight as it travels down
the road. From ’94 to ’02 (Second Generation trucks)
the track bar had a bushing on one end and a ball joint
on the other end. Many people mistakenly replace the
entire track bar when the true cause of the problem is
simply the ball stud on the driver side end of the track
bar. Internally Dodge put a two-coiled metal spring to
hold pressure on the ball stud. Once this spring (which
is not strong enough in the first place), flattens out,
the bar sits on the ball stud and moves up and down.
Below is a picture of the spring that wears out.

Wandering or drifting occurs while driving because
when the steering wheel is moved, the track bar pulls
the axle, and that “play” in the bar lets the axle keep
moving. This causes the driver to pull the steering the
other way and you end up constantly steering the truck.
The death wobble occurs when shock or vibration is
sent from the axle to the track bar, causing the bar to
shake because of the play. The shake is then sent to
the frame of the truck which makes the truck shake.
Generally you must slow the truck to allow it to regain
its “composure.”

So if you are facing either of these problems, what do
you do? Some might think going with a thicker track
bar will solve this problem. A thicker track bar (with
the same “sloppy” ball stud) will not last any longer
than the stock bar. Likewise, regardless of a lifetime
warranty that is offered by some manufacturers, it is
likely you will be changing track bars every 6 to 12
months.

A Publication of the TURBO DIESEL REGISTER 237

So what is the solution? Luke’s Link of Colorado offers a
permanent solution to Dodge pickup tracking problems. At
Luke’s Link our line (technically speaking, a ball stud socket
collar) was designed to rebuild and convert track bars to a
fully adjustable end. With this kit, you remove the ball stud
and internal parts and slide a cap or C-clamp over the end.
You then install the new modified internal parts with the new
modified spring being the main component. Then a large
plug screws into the cap to tighten everything down. With
this setup, the ball joint will never wear out. If it does, you
can adjust it by unscrewing the plug and putting a spacer
under the plug to shim the spring down. This only takes a
few minutes to adjust. This allows the track bar assembly to
last for the life of the truck.

Luke’s Link has a simple check and test to determine if
your track bar ball stud is bad.
• You need two people to complete the inspection,
and at least one person should have some fairly
good strength. Make sure your vehicle is parked on
a solid surface with tires pointed straight forward.
Do not jack the truck off the ground.
• Have the stronger person sit in the driver’s seat and
unlock the steering wheel. Do not start the engine!
The other person should be under the vehicle with a
flashlight.
• The person in the driver’s seat should move the
steering wheel back and forth fairly hard. Under the
vehicle you should examine the ball stud joint to
see if there is any movement up or down. Make sure
you are looking at the track bar as well as the tie rod
ends. The main objective is to use the weight of the
truck against the axle. That is why it is important to
leave the truck completely on the ground. If there is
movement, your ball stud joint is likely in need of
replacement. (Please note that the tie rod ends will
swivel and that is normal. The track bar, however,
should not move at all.) The entire replacement part
kit for this repair is $69.

About Luke’s Link
Luke’s Link has sold tens of thousands of repair kits in the
United States and internationally, and is recognized as a
leader in specialty auto products. We’ve been in business
for over 25 years. We’ve been prominently featured at
many automotive web sites and in publications including
Peterson’s 4x4 Magazine. Owner/Operator/Inventor
Johnnie Laucus has owned a front-end shop for over 30
years. Laucus and his engineer continue to expand and
improve their product line. In addition to this kit working on
the Dodge track bar, it will also work on the tie rod ends
from ’94-’06 as well as Jeep track bars and most Ford tie
rod ends up to ’98. Luke’s Link also has developed a kit
for the Dodge ’03-’07 track bar bushings. The bushing kit
includes two poly bushings, and new better fitting bolts for
the ends. This set is $36 and eliminates the need to replace
the entire $350 track bar.

Please don’t confuse Luke’s Link kits with a cheap or
temporary fix. Luke’s Link offers low cost solutions because
it permanently solves the problems, with no need to
purchase expensive or unnecessary parts. See Luke’s Link
on the web at Home Page or at 1-800-962-4090.

-------------------
TSB
Upper Control Arm Fasteners
(Recall 955)

2001 BR/BE Ram Truck Quad Cab manufactured in July
2000. The upper control arms attached with cadmium coated
nuts can cause the bolts to stretch due to the application
of a higher than specified clamp load. Breakage of the
upper control arm fasteners could cause the axle to rotate
forward under braking conditions. This rotation could twist
the steering linkage and possibly separate the brake lines,
increasing the risk of a crash. Dealers will replace the upper
control arm bolts and nuts.
---------------
TSB
Rear Axle Spacer Plate
(Recall 966)

2001 (BR/BE) Dodge Ram Truck Quad Cab equipped with a
camper package and overload springs manufactured in July
2000.

The rear axle spacer plate could lead to deformation of the
upper spring plate during assembly of the axle to the vehicle
resulting a soft joint. The soft joint could cause the rear axle
U-bolts to lose clamp load, resulting in displacement of the
rear axle and a loss of vehicle control. This could increase
the risk of a crash. Dealers will remove the spacer plates
and the spring plates will be replaced.

 

The lukes links look very promising. I am not sure it would make sense to do them now as my track bar was just replaced when the steering box was. I didn't have time to mess with it at the time so I had it done. The mechanic, who is very well known around here for working on Cummins thought that would fix my dw and wandering. Helped a bit but I still get the shake at about 65mph. The ball joints are still good. The only thing that has any play is my steering linkage. It isn't even loose per say but you can twist them. I think I am going to buy the newer style linkage. I want to be able to run 70-80 mph and no shake! btw the tires are new. That was his other recommendation to help. Trying to be smart and not just through money at the problem.

Thanks for any suggestions!

 

I just did the 09-10 steering upgrade on my truck last weekend. You have to have 17 inch rims to clear. I used my stock dropped pitman arm (2.5inch leveling kit). The kit was a wonderful improvement to my trucks steering. I also did my track bar (darn upper ball joint on it never lasts longer than a year, need to do the 3rd gen. bushing upgrade). After all this I still don't have as tight of steering at a 1/2 ton, but it is the best out of all my 2nd gen. friends. Ball joints on these trucks are also nothing but trouble. I changed mine (upper and lower, both side, with Moog, and greased properly) back in June 2011, less than 40k miles ago, and they are already so worn down the alignment shop could only do a hand grenade alignment. It probably doesn't help that most us Cummins guys use our vehicles properly (off-road friend rescue, heavy duty winch bumper, 33'+ tires, heavy diesel engines...ect). All these things come with owning a 2nd gen. I always try to find front end parts with lifetime warranty so when I change the part out in 6-12 months, all I'm paying for is my labor.

On a completely separate note, your tires have a lot to do with "loose steering". I tried a new brand of winter tires this year. These tires grip better than anything I have ever had before (Blizzak, durratracks, Nittro Grapplers).... BUT they also have the WORST sidewall flex I have ever felt (E rated 10 ply). This sidewall flex feels like a worn out track bar (axle moving side to side) but it is actually my side walls moving side to side. It is small things like this that you have to take into account when thinking about doing steering and suspension upgrades. Sidewall flex, tire ride quality, noise...ect.

Best of luck, the steering upgrade to 09-10 is a good idea, great deal, and very easy to do.

 

The needing 17" wheels is what I am concerned about. I currently have 16" with brand new tires. Hate to spend $ on new wheels and tires for a better front end. I read in one post you would just need to do some grinding to get them to fit? I need to order this stuff today if I am going too.

Thank you for your help!

 

So just an update. Busy week but I got a lot done. I had bought a used Kore leveling kit with shocks and a 5" straight pipe from RSD, diamond eye.

Also after talking to the guy I bought the leveling kit from I went ahead and purchased the 4th gen steering setup from Dodge.

First off the leveling kit was a pita! Not horrendous but would not have been possible without the spring compressors. Even using them it took some fanageling to get them in there. 4th gen steering bolted up super easy as expected. Was close in my wheels but no rubbing/touching. I did end up cutting off the tips of the bolts where the tie rod end bolted up to make myself feel better though

The exhaust kit was pretty well put together. Had to cut one center piece to get the right length etc. All hangers worked except one. At the alignment shop I had the exhaust guy add another hanger.

Impressions, well first off I changed too much at once so its a bit dificult to tell what did what.
The exhaust sounds good, slightly better throttle response I think. I do have a drone though at certain rpms. Highway speeds its fine, idling its ok, slightly off idle to full throttle it drones. May see about adding a muffler...

After the 4th gen steering my steering is much tighter. I do not even have a stabilizer on there and just drove 1200 miles with heavy crosswinds and was a major improvement.

The Kore kit. Well I had really high hopes for this. I was going to purchase it new until I stumbled on the used kit. It leveled out my truck, that looks good. Better ride? not so much. Keeping in mind the shocks were used about 10k miles. They were in good working order.

After all is said and done I also am getting some noise when hitting bumps. I cant find any culprits but will keep checking. Like a shock bottoming out or similar. Just slight but can feel it in the floor.

I will also be adding the matching bilstien rear shocks and a steering stabilizer. I want to add a steering gear brace but I have a snow plow mount in the way...

After all this work I still cant run 70+mph on the highway without shake/shimmy... I have replaced steering gear, 4th gen setup, track bar. Frustrating. My ball joints are still good from what I can tell.

I dont need to run 90mph but I drive to ND often and the highways are 75 and it would be nice to be able to set the cruise and 80 and drive.

Next upgrades are rear shocks(in the mail), gauges (have and waiting for install), steering stabalizer.

Then I am going to do the fuel system, finally a programer

Cant wait for some more power!!

Thanks for your help guys!!