new cummins owner
 

hey guys new cummins owner here. have a few questions an any advise, help, suggestions all welcome. I bought a 01 dodge 3500 has just over 135k on it really sharp truck. its bone stock I'm looking for a few upgrades that will make it more reliable, preform a little better an maybe get a few more mpg. not looking for anything major. im in the parses of making it into a welding truck so may have to do sum traveling an what not just try to make a little more horse power an reliability. got an oil like cant figure out where its coming from so probably gonna have to address that first but im looking for input suggestions an anything else thanks guys

Is it auto, 5speed, or 6speed? Where does the oil drip from (front drivers side, ect)? The first thing that should be done is a fuel pressure gauge. If you are planning on a chip or programmer you will need an aftermarket lift pump on first if it hasn't already been upgraded.

0-30psi mechanical fuel pressure gauge..

then the usual gauges...0-60psi boost, EGT, and trans temp if its an auto...

upgrade the lift pump to a 95GPH if you plan on keeping under 500hp or 150GPH if you plan on upgrading beyond 500hp.

the rest depends on how much your goal power is really...

6 SPD. The oil puke bottle was real nasty. I think that maybe what it was from. I think 500 horse would be great . But never no I may go more. It will be a slow build. I'm just looking for sugesstions an improvements but I'm gonna slowly build it up.

most likely....

the fix is a PITA, so most guys like me just run a long hose down to the axle and let it drip.

the fix = delete the PCV on the timing cover and plug it off, and replace your tappet cover behind the injection pump with a 12v tappet cover so the PCV is on the side of the motor...keeps the timing gears from pumping oil up to the PCV...


500hp for your truck will require huge injectors and twins, or an injection pump swap.

HOVP44 injection pumps have a lot of trouble breaking the 500hp barrier.

SOVP44s break that barrier with greater ease...

so for an easy 500 I would say:

fass150
gauges
62/71/14 turbo (or a 63/68/14, or twins)
SOVP44 swap
7x.010 injectors
edge comp hot unlocked.
south bend or valair double disc clutch with HD clutch hydraulics
ARP head studs
110# valve springs and HD push rods.

with those mods it will be powerful AND reliable.

:tu:

I'm think might just stay under 500 horse :jump: its just a welding truck. Don't think I need to go quit that far into.

7x.011 injectors, HE351VGT + fleece controller, head studs just for insurance against blowing a head gasket. and an edge + clutch and HD clutch hydraulics...

oughta put ya where you want...

you''ll still need gauges and the fass lift pump as well... those are required for ANY mods...

Not surewhat the he351vgt + fleece control is im guessing turbo? I'm new to sum of this stuff. An probably go with the gauges an lift pump first? An what exactly is the HD clutch hydraulics sorry for all the questions but like I said sum of this stuff is new to me.

HE351VE = Variable Geometry Turbo. it has vanes inside the exhaust side that start off closed down to focus exhaust on the turbine wheel causing it to spool like a small turbo, and when the engine reaches higher exhaust pressures, the vanes open up to allow more flow like a larger turbo making the turbo more efficient. since this turbo is computer controlled by the 6.7L engines they came on, you need an aftermarket controller to operate the vanes. That is where the fleece controller comes in...it is a stand alone controller that controls the turbo based on your engine load.


yes definitely gauges and lift pump first.

HD clutch hydraulics = complete replacement hydraulic system for your clutch. so new heavy duty master cylinder, new heavy duty slave cylinder, and the lines and reservoir that link it all together.

the HD hydraulics give more pushing power against the clutch fork making it easier to depress a heavier pressure plate.

upgraded clutches tend to have much heavier pressure plate loads against the clutch disc...

for example my pressure plate puts 3,600lbs of force against the clutch discs and flywheel...doesn't mean it weighs that, but it has that kind of spring load on it...

will I be alright putting exhaust on first before I put the lift pump on? my mom is getting Christmas stuff an has like 200 bucks left for being done an I can get exhaust for a lil over 200 I have asked for money ever where else so hopefully ill have enough to buy the lift pump after Christmas. an I'm also looking at the edge cts for gauges but I'm not going to be able to buy the edge juice with attitude all at once ($978) so I was wondering can I just buy the cts then later on down the road buy the actually programmer thanks for all the help guys

A better deal on the Edge Juice with Att. if it helps. A site sponsor.

Dodge EDGE Juice w/ Attitude CS - 1998.5-2000 Dodge 5.9L Cummins Juice w/ Attitude CS

exhaust is fine...gives no performance gain what so ever on a stock truck...

just do a lift pump before any power adders like injectors or electronics that modify timing/fueling...

nice replies. didn't know about that 12 valve cover fix, wish I had done that when I replaced my front main seal.

When I got my truck, it had a front main leak and the normal puker bottle crap. Front main leak was hard to pinpoint because the oil hits the fan and goes everywhere, including the radiatior. check closely to make sure the radiator isn't clugged up with oil from the blow by or a front main. For the puker bottle I attached a few feet of high heat hose to the existing hose, put the bottle into a PBR tall boy can, and wired it so it easily dumps when I change my oil. quick 10 dollar "fix". After doing this and degreasing my truck with bedsheets from a hotel, found out my vacuum pump also leaks. thats an easy fix as well.

ok guys got my exhaust plan to put it on soon. between working out of town an getting my Christmas bonus I have 650 set back so I'm going to start looking for a fass lift pump seams like that is the one everyone says to get but there are so many different models so which one should I get? going to either get a 95 or 100 gph thanks for all the help guys an one more question how hard is it to install one of these I love working on my own stuff all I can so was wondering how hard it is to put one of these on thanks for ever thing

titanium

has air/fuel separator, and water/fuel separator/pre-filter along with a 2 micron spin on fuel filter.

makes changing the filters easier and eliminates bottle necks in the fuel system.

ok little update on my truck for you guys I now have a ats 3 piece manifold 4in turbo back straight pipe 100gph lift pump and an edge cts juice with attitude. really love the edge. really woke my truck up.. but with my HEAVEY foot :choochoo: if I put It up to high if I don't watch it my clutch will start to slip :w2: which since I have done that i only keep it on 1 which is mileage. so im gonna start looking a getting a clutch an probably head studs just to be on the safe side. anybody have a fav clutch or recommend clutch? is there anything you can to the re end to beef it up also?
my last re end snapped an axle running 70 down the interstate ended up putting a hole new re end in it. that was when it was all stock. was full of oil none of the seals were leaking maybe it was just one of those weird deals but was wondering if there was a way to beef it up for the power to thanks for all the help guys