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White Smoke
I need some help on something. My pickup just started smoking white at mostly all startups like the valves are bad. Also when i get on the highway and step on it real hard it will blow a puff of white smoke and then goes to black smoke. I dont think its the valves because i just had the head off, checked and o-ringed about 10,000 miles ago. Any help is appreciated thanks.
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What lift pump are you using? If it is the BD in your signature you are likely going to need to replace that along with the VP44. White smoke is a sign of injection pump death.
Check for codes P0216 to be exact. |
Ya im using the BD which has been good to me. It never usually drops below 10 psi except for lately its been droppen to 5 due to bad filter i believe. I will have to check the codes but i think i have had that P0216 code on there for quite a few months now.
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Your filter change may fix this whole thing up. In general white smoke is just a lack of enough fuel to burn the same as Black smoke is an excess of fuel. This can be a result of weak or dead LP, Bad VP, or something clogged in the fuel system. The Clog being the cheapest and easiest to check for.
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Correct, but if the clog has been there a long time the VP might be damaged as a result. This means $$...
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I know the filter needs changing so ill try that tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks
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If the filter doesn't fix the problem don't forget about the screen on the pick up tube in the tank. Your trucks gettin to that age where the gunk accumulation in the tank may be startin to build up also. It's not as easy to do but you can drop the tank and put it back up in a few hours even doin it by yourself.
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I think ill do that once i get a rainy weekend. I need to change out the sending unit anyways. I changed the filter the today and i can still get it to drop down to about 4 psi with it only set on stage 4 on the edge and the smarty turned off. Ive never been able to get it to drop below 13 turned all the way up. It may be time to upgrade to a fass system with 1/2" lines to but cant quite afford it right now.
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Airdog has the same lifetime warranty, better specs and is lower in price. Just in case your interested. Or in my case I went to a belt drive mechanical LP system. I got tired of burnin up electric motors.
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What does it all take to get one of those belt drive ones and how much would one cost. Who makes them to. Thanks
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Originally Posted by Razutak
(Post 145372)
I think ill do that once i get a rainy weekend. I need to change out the sending unit anyways. I changed the filter the today and i can still get it to drop down to about 4 psi with it only set on stage 4 on the edge and the smarty turned off. Ive never been able to get it to drop below 13 turned all the way up. It may be time to upgrade to a fass system with 1/2" lines to but cant quite afford it right now.
Here is the lift pump diagnostics... Lift Pump Diagnostics MINIMUM PRESSURE AT WOT IS 10 PSI (Straight from Dodge's Factory Service manual!) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/2002%2...sure-specs.jpg As for replacing the VP44 when it comes time... VP44 Replacment As for repriming the fuel system afterwards... Reprime Fuel System As for Vulcan Big Line Kit... Vulcan Big Line |
Im not sure if that is 100% true mopar man. Up around here i talk to alot of guys who do pulling that pull them down to 1 psi every time they pull and there vp's last quite along time. And if that is true that it needs 10psi mine would of been shot right after i bought it. Ive had troubles with my lift pumps every once in awhile and ran it down to 3psi for over 10 seconds and its been about 40,000 miles since then and still running good. Now don't get me wrong it will weaken it by running it that low but i dont think it would be shot right away like some say. I know mine is getting weak but it has taken alot of abuse in the last 140,000 miles but still is running good and havent had to many problems pushing out atleast 400 hp for the last 20,000 miles.
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These VP's are a crap shoot. Some will die like right now and some will go forever no matter what you do to them. Myself, I put over 3000 miles on my original with no LP workin at all. When I installed the new LP the VP still worked fine for a long time afterwards. Ya I'm sure it shortened the life span that it would have lived but I got 150,000 out of it so no complaints from me. In talkin to Cummins Techs, even they say the manual allows for the pumps to be pulled down to 0psi for short durations because everything they work off of has to do with flow amounts and psi.
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Originally Posted by Razutak
(Post 145670)
What does it all take to get one of those belt drive ones and how much would one cost. Who makes them to. Thanks
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Im not sure if that is 100% true mopar man. Up around here i talk to alot of guys who do pulling that pull them down to 1 psi every time they pull and there vp's last quite along time. Not here to argue... I'm here to protect a very expensive piece on the great Cummins! :w2: |
White smoke is a classsic sign of injector pump failure. You havent said whether or not youve checked for codes.
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I already asked him to do that. I don't know if he did or not.
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the only code i got when i checked it was the P0500 which doesn't mean to much since i know that my harness on the back axle is a little wore out. Changed the fuel filter to and that didn't fix the problem all the way but it helped out a little bit. I think im gonna order a Airdog 150 fuel system today. Has anyone used them and how do they perform compared to the $150 more FASS setup.
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Now, how did you check codes? Did you just to the key on/off deal or did you actually scan the truck with a scanner?
From what Ive seen the AirDog is a kick butt system and is easily as good as a FASS. |
I just turned the key on and off. but ill go hook up my smarty quick.
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- Just pulled them up and got P1693 also. |
Theres another code somewhere and I bet its P0216 or P1688....
Have you cracked an injector to see if you have fuel from the VP-44? Be very careful doing so and use cardboard to check for spraying fuel. |
i dont really know what you mean if i have fuel from the vp-44. It still runs real good and everything it just smokes at start ups and once in awhile when you mash the throttle down. Does it have to be taken into the dealership to get those codes?
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I mean, if you take a wrench and crack open number one injector do you have high pressure fuel spraying out?...
If you have a Smarty - it should be able to pull whatever codes you have. I may have gotten ahead of myself. Are you getting any dead pedal or hard starts when warm? If not, I would just drive it and see what happens. |
I think thats what im gonna do. I havent got any hard starts or dead pedals yet ( knock on wood) But im gonna get that Airdog system done as soon as possible so i can get the fuel pressure and power back up. Hopefully it also takes care of the fuel pressure taking awhile to build up after startup. I guess ill just have to wait and see what happens
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Now, to add some food for thought to this. If you install a AD or FASS that have such reliable pumps and the VP44 is damaged it will expedite the process of failure. So, what I'm saying don't expect the AD to solve the problem if the VP44 internals are damaged. It may not ever happen but you must be prepared to replace it if the P0216 code is present.
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Ya im fully aware of that. I just figured if i do all that it takes one more question out of the problem. Im sure that ill be replacing the vp sometime this year. I just hope its not till later this fall when money is a little more available for pleasure
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Find someone with a smarty box or decent OBDII code reader (some shops will do it for nothing) and check to see if you have that P0216 code in there somewhere. If it comes up at least you will know what you have to do even if it isn't right away.
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I checked it with my smarty box and olny got the P0500 and the P1693 so i think i should be ok for awhile atleast
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Well, then it is probably alright. What's a speed sensor signal? Some to do with your cruise control?
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Ya it reads the speed off of the rear axle. The wireing harness wears out in them and whenever mine gets wet it throws a code. Also if i do a nice burnout it will throw it to
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Originally Posted by Razutak
(Post 145900)
i dont really know what you mean if i have fuel from the vp-44. It still runs real good and everything it just smokes at start ups and once in awhile when you mash the throttle down. Does it have to be taken into the dealership to get those codes?
But just like a gasser you can disconnect the vacuum advance and still run the engine. It just that you don't get advancement of timing when its needed. So back to diesel relm the white smoke is cause because the timing is too retarded. So since the VP44 can control the advancement any longer normally the P0216 error code is thrown... |
Originally Posted by Razutak
(Post 145937)
Ya it reads the speed off of the rear axle. The wireing harness wears out in them and whenever mine gets wet it throws a code. Also if i do a nice burnout it will throw it to
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Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
(Post 145986)
The burnout is what does it....spinning the rear wheels causes the P0500...it usually will go away on its own after so many starts.
Trip Indicator The Trip is essential for running monitors and extinguishing the MIL. In OBD II terms, a trip is a set of vehicle operating conditions that must be met for a specific monitor to run. All trips begin with a key cycle. Good Trip The Good Trip counters are as follows: ● Specific Good Trip ● Fuel System Good Trip ● Misfire Good Trip ● Alternate Good Trip (appears as a Global Good Trip on DRB III) ● Comprehensive Components ● Major Monitor ● Warm-Up Cycles Specific Good Trip The term Good Trip has different meanings depending on the circumstances: ●If the MIL is OFF, a trip is defined as when the Oxygen Sensor Monitor and the Catalyst Monitor have been completed in the same drive cycle. ● If the MIL is ON and a DTC was set by the Fuel Monitor or Misfire Monitor (both continuous monitors), the vehicle must be operated in the Similar Condition Window for a specified amount of time. ● If the MIL is ON and a DTC was set by a Task Manager commanded once-per-trip monitor (such asthe Oxygen Sensor Monitor, Catalyst Monitor, Purge Flow Monitor, Leak Detection Pump Monitor, EGR Monitor or Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor), a good trip is when the monitor is passed on the next startup. ● If the MIL is ON and any other emissions DTC was set (not an OBD II monitor), a good trip occurs when the Oxygen Sensor Monitor and Catalyst Monitor have been completed, or two minutes of engine run time if the Oxygen Sensor Monitor and Catalyst Monitor have been stopped from running. Fuel System Good Trip To count a good trip (three required) and turn off the MIL, the following conditions must occur: ● Engine in closed loop ● Operating in Similar Conditions Window ● Short Term multiplied by Long Term less than threshold ● Less than threshold for a predetermined time If all of the previous criteria are met, the PCM will count a good trip (three required) and turn off the MIL. Misfire Good Trip If the following conditions are met the PCM will count one good trip (three required) in order to turn off the MIL: ● Operating in Similar Condition Window ● 1000 engine revolutions with no misfire Warm-Up Cycles Once the MIL has been extinguished by the Good Trip Counter, the PCM automatically switches to a Warm-Up Cycle Counter that can be viewed on the DRB III. Warm-Up Cycles are used to erase DTCs and Freeze Frames. Forty Warm-Up cycles must occur in order for the PCM to self-erase a DTC and Freeze Frame. A Warm-Up Cycle is defined as follows: ● Engine coolant temperature must start below and rise above 160° F ● Engine coolant temperature must rise by 40° F ● No further faults occur |
What do ya'll think about an injector "pop" going south or injector pintle just not holding anymore?
I have some junkers (some I bought used that were supposed to have been some brand name good pieces that turned out to be some stockers run through an Extrudehone process with uneven diameter holes:madd:) in the toolbox that leak as soon as you start putting pressure to them with my pop tester. |
Well thats another thought...but I probably wouldnt be looking at injectors before I knew the IP was good.
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well i just sold my sled so i have some extra cash so i might just end up taking it in and having a new injector pump put in to. I also want to get rid of the erratic idle. Its always going up and down.
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Do you have another set of injectors you could swap in?
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No but they are still under warranty so if i needed to or my guy that does alot of the work thought it was the injectors said he could test them and see if its the problem. im gonna have to take it up to him sometime and have him check it over
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