Loosing Coolant, And Can't Find It.
 

Well, I'm loosing coolant somewhere, but I can't track it down. About once a month, I notice that the overflow bottle is nearly empty. I'll fill it to the mark, and it'll slowly become empty. I've checked radiator, and it's always up to the fill neck. There doesn't appear to be a crack in my block (53), there's no apparent coolant in the oil(will do sample next change), and there isn't any coolant leaking on the ground where I park. I've only had to fill the coolant reservoir twice now, so this is a 2008 development. I figure it's either a seeping headgasket, cracked block, leaky bottle, or a leaky line somewhere.

What hints y'all got for tracking this down?

about 205k on the odo.

'preciate the help.
Andy
:deal:

Well, you could pressure test with dye and see if it something obvious.

It may be entering the combustion chamber and getting burned off. Usually, you'll have high pressure in the rad ans that will push out the coolant however.

Or a small leak into an oil passage. This water easily could enter the oil and get steamed out. Mine did just that.

Look for tell tale signs of seepage around the block. Typically, whitish chalky in color.

Dave

I thought about dye, and that may be what it comes down to.

Would it get into the combustion chamber via a leaky headgasket? I agree that you'll usually have high pressure in the rad and that push the coolant OUT. On my 12v, I had a seeping HG, and the rad pressure would get so high that it blew freeze plugs out of the back of the block! That was a ringer..

How would I diagnose a small leak in an oil passage? How in the world did you figure that out?

I feel like I looked the block over real good on the passenger side last night... where the 53's are notorious for cracking. I hope that it's something simple, however... I have a bad feeling (I'm a real pessimist).

Thanks for the help,
Andy

What about the simple problem, just a bad radiator cap. Worn out and letting steam past.

This is where i would start! You can borrow a kit from most shops that lets you test for combustion gases in the Antifreeze! Also, With a pressure tester, If you have a HG or combustion leak , the gauge will fluctuate!

Hope this helps! If I can be of assistance give me a call!

this or the thermostat. mine was sticking and causing weird problems. i was adding coolant every week. then randomly it stuck wide open. i changed it out and it magically fixed everything!

Coolant Leaks...

Well first off to find a coolant leak you should pressurize the system and start looking for coolant flow. The only two places you can't really see is the heater core and the oil cooler in the block.

But ask yourself why the coolant leak? Coolant leaks are cause by the pH level of the coolant becoming corrosive (high or low pH level). It starts by attacking solder joint and soft metals.

How do you prevent this... Simple! Change you coolant as specified by the owner manual. (30K miles) Just because its green coloered yet doesn't mean it hasn't become acidic or basic and eating away at the metals in you coolant system.

5 Years old and 100K miles later...
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/DSCF1177.jpg
(No rust in my block)

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r...n/DSCF1182.jpg
(No scale build up)

It's just that simple to protect you coolant system just change the coolant! :w2:

Thanks guys for the tips. I'll give some of them a go. I'm big on maitenance, but I bought this truck with 175K. As good as the truck looked, there were some obvious deficiencies in its maitenance program.

You got some good advice to go by!

Good Luck

im not the only one this has happened too. i got the idea from cowhand on dtr. he had the same thing happen. keep us posted. let us know the outcome!

Any word on what you found yet???:pca1:

I'm having the same issue, seems worse when i keep the truck plugged in, gonna get a new cap. Keep us posted on what you find out:c:

Still haven't had time to look at it much. I'm in a carpool and only drive it one week every other week. Next week I'll be driving and should be looking back into it.

Same here, just post up when you figure somethin out, If I hit on anything I'll let ya Know:c:

I am having the same prob. but when I adjust my temp inside the truck I can smell anti-freez for a little bit, if I have it al the way cold it does not do it or when the temp is all the way to hot. It only happens about the middle, so I am thinking my heater core is going out?? Is this a problem any one else has had? Oh ya mine is very slow it go down in the over flow bottle from full it might take 6 months or more to go half way down.

one thing that is cheap to do is replace the hose going from the radiator to the overflow bottle. it can be cracked or have a pinhole in it. whe it's cold it won't leak but as you drive it the rubber expands and will weap water out since it's not a pressure hose and then close back up once it cools down. you'll spend no more than 2-3 bux on this. also i'd bite the bullet and put a new cap on while you are at it. 7016 is 3.99 and 7716 (w/the pressure relief tab) is 5.99 from Autozone. and the hose can't be more than 99cents a foot.

Thats like $6.00!!! Man are you high or something? I'm just not sure that I'm willing to make that kind of commitment. What if it doesn't work? I'm not sure I can gamble that kind of money.

j/k dude:pals: I'm prob attempting humor b/c I just paid $103 for fuel and want to cry. When I bought my first dodge Cummins diesel back in 02, I was paying $50 to fill the tank... :baby:

Alas.. back to the matter at hand.... That's actually a really good suggestion. I was already on the bandwagon to replace the rad cap as Uncle Bub had suggested. But the line to the overflow is a good suggestion too. Didn't think of that... or anything else you guys pointed out. It's nice to have smart and helpful friends.

There is a UV dye you can add to the coolant... Then use a UV light and check over the system. The UV Dye shows up rather brightly in the UV light. Then you can check all external areas of the truck...

I changed the thermostat as Queeg suggested and it has seem to cure the problem, I can't explain how it stopped it with a sealed system cap not lifting and pressure tested the cap and the whole coolant system, let it set for 2 hours with 15# on it and it held solid. Don't have a clue where the coolant was going.Guys thanks for the help, just kills me when I can't explain how or why.:argh:

Is this on the 99? Could it be the infamous 53 block?