1999 cummins losing power
 

hey guys looking for some help cant seem to figure this one out. all started one day i was driving around and all of a sudden i completly lost power it would barley move, for about 15 seconds then took off like a jet. that was a month ago. now every once in a while when i first get in it to go to work it starts up great then i go to take off and same thing, has no balls, wont spool up the turbo, wont do anything and my fuel pressure guage stays 10-15 psi during all this. on top of it ever since it did it the first time i dont feel the power i used to even when its not acting up. i do have a edge programer and airdog lift pump. only code im getting is p0236 MAP sensor too high too long. dont know if that hass to do with it or not. help is strongly apreciated. also im not seeing any white smoke if that helps any

Have you checked your TPS? Sounds like your getting dead pedal.

Wen it is acting up i can still rev it up in park just fine but once i go to drive it is when it doesnt do anything. Im going to guess it may be a fuel issue but i dont know much about diesels. It will drive it just takes forever to get moving it doesnt cut out or anything it just has the power of a prius for 5 min then it takes off.

Do you have any kind for module on the truck like edge, bully dog or banks wire tapped in to the injector pump? I have my banks module tapped into my injector pump and the module started acting up and caused my truck to do the same thing yours is doing. I had to send it back and have it reflashed.

Well WTF is new, I wrote a kick-ass response to your question and then when I went to post it, the f'ing computer told me that I wasn't logged in. Right... whatever. So, it all disappeared! Great. Well, here's the quick and dirty version...

Yeah, it's your MAP sensor. I had the exact same problem. Truck sits and idles fine, but it can't get out of it's own way, and snails move faster. Downright dangerous to drive anywhere it's so slow. You have NO idea how hard it was to figure it out on my stupid truck though, b/c my truck didn't set a code for it, it set over a half dozen codes or so in both my Chrysler PCM and my Cummins ECU (A total of like 14 codes). You are lucky it's telling you that your MAP sensor has a problem!

Anyhow, replace it and clear your codes. You should be golden. :jump:

The MAP sensor screws into the side of the engine just below and behind (to the rear of) the fuel filter housing assy. It will require unplugging the weatherpack connector from the sensor, and use a 1-1/4" deep socket to unscrew it.

Last time I checked (that was like 4 years ago), the MAP sensor cost about $150 from the dealer. Not sure if you can get them aftermarket cheaper or not. Cummins parts are such a rip-off.

Let me know if you get it fixed and if I'm right. (I'm 99.9% sure that I am.)

All the best, :rocking:
AJ

Ok cool . Yes i do have a edge programer im going to try this map sensor and ill keep you updated latly its been driving better but still dont have the power power it used too . Ill do that tomarow and see what happems thanks

I'm no expert on the programmers, but if you can take it out of the loop (so to speak) completely, that might be wise to do before you go throwing parts at the truck. Seems to me that most of those things are plug and play, so you should be able to remove it pretty easily.

Sometimes the aftermarket stuff can screw up and cause a lot of headaches.

If I were in your shoes, I know that I'd want to be confident that the aftermarket programmer wasn't responsible for the lack of power change before I spent a lot of money on other parts trying to fix the problem that might be caused by the aftermarket programmer.

alright time for a curve ball. the map sensor was removed, a nipple was installed for the aftermarket boost gauge it appears the connector now has a dummy that its plugged into? and they tapped in some other wires and used butt-connectors maybe thats where the problem is. this truck is a f-ing nightmare i miss my duramax! anyhow dealing with what i got...also noticed that there may be a wire tapped into on the injector pump i may be wrong though if theres any thing i can take pictures of to help let me know, what are you guys thinking now? it hasnt been doing the weird take off anymore but it still dont have the power it did last month. it doesnt blow the smoke out like it used to when turned up and it doesnt throw me in the seat. heeeeelp! :argh:

Fuel filter?

The factory fuel filter was bypassed for the air dog in which i ordered a new filter and seperator they will be here tomarow, i did think about that too but dont know why im throwing a code if the filter is the problem? Maybe the code has always been there even when it had the power the check engine light hasnt come on it this entire time but the light does work. Thats somthing else too if the airdog bypasses the factory fuel filter/separator then how does fuel keep getting to it? The line that went to the injector pump is disconnected but fuel doesnt come out of it but if i open the valve to drain water fuel comes out. Sorry if im confusing anyone just trying to be thorough.

That sounds like what my truck was doing when I was having a problem with my BANKS module. It had no balls at all!!! I could put my foot through the floor and the truck wouldn't get out of its own way. I sent it back to BANKS and they reflashed it and I haven't had that problem any more.

It sounds like to me that the previous owner had to dummy wire the edge programmer because it probably needed to be wired into the map sensor and the boost gauge had that tied up. I would think thats not your problem you're having with the truck....seeing how its just started.

If you have a wire tapped into the top black wire on the injector pump then your edge programmer is hard tapped into the pump.
If so, I would bet its your programmer giving your truck shit!!! The Vp44 injector pump is the heart of the timing for the truck. The programmer might be making the pump advance the timing and leaning the fuel out. Which would make the truck run sluggish and no power. Also making the pump misfire on the injectors.

I would unhook the programmer and see how the truck runs on the factory settings. It won't have the seat ripping power but you can see if the truck has the power to move and it will take the fuel.

Codes? many things can be a dead pedal. No need to throw parts at it.

What can i do to make sure the dummy switch isnt messing with it or maybe one of the connectors isnt corroded inside and making a bad connect the programer is 12 years old maybe time to buy a new one if thats the issue what do you guys recomend as far as if i need a new programer? Ive seen alot of people using a smarty?

You miss your Duramax? You should be beaten for that comment! :bat: LOL

Well, several things that I'd suggest if I were in your shoes.

1.) If you have a code reader, find out what codes are being thrown, and head in that direction to continue your diagnostics. Just because a "check engine light" is not illuminated, that doesn't mean that there aren't any trouble codes being set or that are pending. Idiot lights are just that... for idiots.

Let's face it, with any modern vehicle, you are 2/3rds screwed when you don't have the ability to plug into the OBDII connector with a factory computer scan tool. You'd be amazed what can be done with a Chrysler DRBIII or now their new Starscan scan tool. (Too bad they are insanely expensive and unless you own a shop, you just can't justify purchasing one of them.)

2.) If you can, without causing too many other headaches, remove the entire Edge power programmer crap and put it back to stock. I'm pretty sure that "65Fathead" also suggested this.

Start over this way to see if your Cummins runs/operates like a correct stock truck should. (Remember, a stock truck doesn't blow black smoke and won't launch you into the seat like you are trying to blow up your transmission, but it'll move right along just fine.)

Anyhow, if the truck resumes running properly after removing the Edge stuff, you've found your problem. Being 12 yrs. old, there's a good chance there is a bad wire or connection somewhere, particularly if it wasn't properly installed and if the wiring wasn't made to be "weatherproofed", so to speak.

To be honest, it sounds like you don't have a lot of experience with this stuff. No surprise, as most people don't until they are forced into it when a problem arises. Plus, there's nothing worse than taking on someone else's modified truck that has been all "hacked up", with splices and rat's-nest poorly installed wiring messes. UGH...

3.) Perhaps you have a diesel performance shop near you? If so, you may want to bite the bullet and take the truck to them to have them figure out what's wrong with it. I know taking the truck into a diesel performance shop is probably not what you want to hear... but in the long run; it will be less stressful, your truck will be fixed faster, and it will be ultimately cheaper than just throwing parts at the unknown problem.

4.) Heck, you might just something as simple as a bad fuel lift pump, leading to an inadequate amount of fuel getting to the injection pump. It happens.
Have you checked your fuel delivery flow and pressure going to the injection pump? Don't forget... continued running of your engine will ruin your injection pump in a very short time if your lift pump isn't doing its job properly.

Why diesel truck manufacturers don't put fuel pressure gauges and shut-down safety systems in place on vehicles to protect the expensive injection pumps is beyond me. I guess they can't sell parts if they don't break.

As other guys on here have also mentioned... there are a LOT of possibilities that could be wrong with your truck being low on power. You just have to spend A LOT of time on diagnosis, and eventually you'll find your problem. Welcome to the world of electronically controlled diesels... UGH! :argh:

Well your correct i am a full time mechanic but when it comes to diesel thats a whole new world for me, i did find the map sensor in the middle of all these wires that are hacked for the programer, it was unpluged i pluged it back in and cleared my codes had my power back for 10 min then right back to how its been. I am pulling the programer out and fixing all the wires that were spliced to make it all stock again and its going to a shop i know well tuesday they specialize in diesels, to get there opinion and have it checked out, my fuel pressure sensor is on the line from the air dog and its right before the injector pump and ussualy stays between 10-15 psi it has gone stupid on me a couple times and start jumping around up tp 20. Yesturday i was pulling my trailer and i would put it to the floor going up hill just to keep my speed. thanks for all the help hopfuly just the programer. Find out tuesday hopfully.

well had some stuff pop up, so i havent made it to the shop. i just got done removing my programmer so its all back to stock. ran several tests with my scanner and nothing ever poped up and my codes didnt come back. i took it for a drive and these things must be pretty poochy stock, i still have about the same amount of power. according to my gauge fuel pressure is good(10-15), and boost around 20 psi. do i keep digging? do i buy a new programmer to get my power back? i dont want to kill the thing but i want some extra power especially when im towing.

Hmmm, well it sure sounds like the programmer was very likely your issue...

Yeah, in stock form, the Cummins engines are not rocketships by any means, but they have good, steady consistent power and actually get up and go pretty good considering the weight that they are dragging down the road. If you have gotten yourself too used to the power programmers set to dumping fuel to them a lot though, especially in the higher performance (stages 4-5), then you will feel that stock settings are groggy when returning to them. Keep in mind, fuel economy is typically best at the stock settings, and that's where you'll want to be most of the time anyhow unless you have really deep pockets for diesel fuel.

Here's my suggestion since you feel it's still groggy, and there was a code for the MAP sensor in the past... I'd just install a new MAP sensor. Take it for what it's worth.
I just checked for you... and for $113 at Advance Auto parts, you can get a brand new Map Sensor made by BWD (Borg-Warner). The part number for your 1999 CTD truck is a: EC1816

A new map sensor may wake your truck right up, and it may not do much of anything if the old sensor was working properly. Way I figure it, a new sensor is still cheaper than taking it in to a shop. If it wasn't needed, now you have a spare to throw in your glove box, or better yet, you sell your good used one (if it turns out to still be good) on eBay or Craigslist to recoup some of your money. I'd say a good used MAP sensor ought to be worth around $25 to $50 bucks - no? Heck, if you were 100% sure that the sensor wasn't the problem, I'd give you $25 for it, and it could sit in my glovebox.

One last thing... I remember you saying that your gauges did some wierd shiznit when you were having problems earlier. Well, when my MAP sensor went bad in my 1999 Cummins, I had all kinds of wierd problems occurring. Multiple codes were set in the Dodge PCM and Cummins ECU, dash cluster gauge malfunctions, etc. Once I put the new MAP sensor in, and cleared out all of the codes, all of the crazy problems went away. Yeah - no lie.

The beauty of a new MAP sensor is that it literally takes about 10 minutes to change it. Just a big deep socket (I forget the size, maybe around 1-1/4" or so?), a 1/2" drive extension and a 1/2" drive ratchet. Be careful to not over torque the new MAP sensor when you install it. Put a light coat of oil or silicone spray on the o-ring and just snug it down. :c:

Im sure someone will quickly correct me if im wrong here.But,isnt the fuel pressure supposed to be 15-20lbs at all times to keep from starving the vp44? In other posts ive seen since owning my 99 ive seen under 15lbs is never acceptable. At least i THINK thats what ive read......I could be wrong,its happened once before!

yea they got you going into the right direction, but it can be several things you just need to trouble shoot them all if you have an obdII set up for dodge you can plug it in and see what sensors are and are not reading, along of tracking the throttle position sensor. Any OBDII with the dodge programm should get those for you!

bosch specifications are 13.5 P S I plus or minus 5 P S I

I did alot of reasearch and cummins wants 10 minimum. So i still have some power loss but im starting to notice it real bad going down the highway, and its terrible when i get to a hill i have to put it to the floor to try and keep my speed. I dont know if this is related but my fuel press guage will start going all over the place from 15 -25. Im still wondering if its not the apps because i seen alot of people complaining when those go bad it messes with the shifting, mine goes in to overdrive at 40 then past 60 or so it dont down shit but it did that before all this because once it hit overdrive it had the power to keep it moving less then half throttle. Now i cant eve pull my trailer down the highway and hope to keep up with the geo tracker in front of me.

Just replaced the map sensor nothing changed.

plumb in a different fuel pres guage yet?.....if yours is jumping all over the place spuratticly how accurate do you think it is?......and yes,I know i mispelled there but you know what i meant

The only time my guage gos crazy is when im not on the gas, wen im on it its fine but if im cruzing at a set speed or idleing then it goes nuts. I just hooked up my scanner and apps seems to be working fine. I think im back to a fuel issue. Has anyone had a problem with the airdog?

Same issue but i have a stock truck ....:/

I have a similar problem with a 1999 Dodge 3500 truck I need help with. It starts and runs fine but then after driving a few miles it just shuts down like you turned the switch off. I even noticed the radio display goes dead so I am sure it is electrical in nature. It will restart if you leave it in gear and allow the engine to continue turning and it takes off like a shot. I have pulled all the fuses and relays pertaining to the fuel and ignition systems and tested them all with no problems found in any of them. Anyone else ever had this problem. I also replaced the fuel filter with no improvement in the problem. It doesn't feel like it is running out of fuel because it happens instantly with no warning.