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Ok, i have put one used vp-44 on this truck and i just bought a new one fro II put it on and no go truck will crank and crank but no fire on its own, i tow it down the road and it will fire right up and run fine. Shut it off for not even 10 minutes and just crank and crank again. I have good fuel PSI, new overflow valve all connections are tight, new vp-44, but it still will not start on its own. would ecm cause this.


DD

What was the truck doing when you decided to change the VP44?

Any Codes at all?

Where are you reading from?

I would do a flow test on the LP also. Once the truck is running the VP will pull enough fuel to keep driving but if the LP isn't providing any prime or worse allowing air flow in then the VP may not have enough to get the truck stated on it's own.

Just an opinion on this cause I don't know much aout the computers in there, but I would think that if the computer was bad it would start even when being pulled.

Ok i should have calrified, i have excellent FP,no codes now, changed vp as i had the 0216 before, got good used one but no change so i figured it was bad also so i got a brand new one still same issue, i can tow it and it will run as normal. Just wondering if ECM or a crank or cam sensor can cause this. DD

What exactly is your Fuel Pressure and where are you reading it from

14 psi at idle at the IP.

Please fill out your signature with your truck info

If you have a programmer take it off ,

Heres an EZ Try

This is an article for cleaning the IAT sensor on the 1998-2002 24V diesel engine.
The IAT sensor measures the temperature of the intake nmanifold. The ECM uses this sensor reading to set injection timing and adjust the air-fuel ratio. If the fuel mileage and power output of you engine seem low, some owners have found improvement in EGT, fuel economy, and power after cleaning carbon from the IAT sensor in at the rear of the intage manifold. Engine with exhaust brakes are particularly prone to IAT sensor fouling because soot is blown back into the intake during valve overlap. Smokingdiesel.com has an information page about problems caused by the IAT sensor.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...s/iat_cl11.jpg The only tool you need is a 3/8" ratchet with a 6" extension and 13/16" socket.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...s/iat_cl12.jpg The IAT sensor is found on the driver's side of the engine, almost at the back of the intake manifold.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...s/iat_cl13.jpg
http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...s/iat_cl14.jpg Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor. You will need to spread the connect tab away from the sensor body to unplug the sensor. After the connector has been removed, use a 13/16" deep well socket, 6" extension, and ratchet to unscrew the sensor from the manifold.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...s/iat_cl15.jpg http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...s/iat_cl16.jpg

The sensor on the left had 20,000 miles on it, and it was covered with soot. After a shot of carburator cleaner, you can see the sensor element inside the cage. Screw the clean IAT sensor back into the manifold, torque it to 10 ft-lb, and reattach the connector.
Pics below by Engcogod...


http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image.../iat_dirty.jpg http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/image...s/iat_cl15.jpg
After seeing how much carbon was on after 20k I figured mine was going to be 5 times as worse being that my truck has over 130k on it. Too my surprise it really wasn't bad at all. I'm sure it depends on what mods you have done & how you drive your truck. I got my truck used with 120k but don't think the previous owner did too much maintenance to the truck, but I could be wrong. It doesn't take long at all to clean the hardest part is getting it off the truck.
*Note - If you are double jointed the job will go a lot faster.... :)
Temperature
Resistance
30°
40K
32°
30k to 36k ohms
76°
13K ohms
77°
9k to 11k ohms
81°
6.87K ohms
122°
3k to 4k ohms
130°
4K ohms
167°
600 to 675 ohms
212°
600 to 675 ohms
Replacement Sensor: