You might not even need a new seal. Take the 4x4 actuator off and see if there is any wiggle up and down between the two shafts. If there is all you need is a intermediate shaft bushing (QU40107 CAD Axle Shaft Bushing) or you can upgrade to a bearing (Front Inner Axle Shaft D30,D44,D60 disconnect pilot bearing,INTRMEDT SHAFT(1_NEEDED).813&#34OD). When I replaced my seal the bushing was completly gone and I didn't know it was supposed to be there. It still leaked with a new seal. After much searching I found the bushing, installed it, and no more leaks. Replacing the passenger seal is not that hard. If you need me to I'll walk you through the steps. The drivers seal is the hard one.

The passenger side one is the tough one :argh:

Ok, so I have just been dealing with this and adding a little oil as needed. I have recently picked up a yota for a daily drive so now I can tear it apart and not have to rush through it in between work and sleep. I'm sure I will be posting questions over the next week or so. Thanks for all the info so far

Before you tear into it, you're going to want to find a 2-3ft length of 1/2" all thread (got mine from Tractor Supply) with 4 nuts and 3 fender washers. A 14" 2x4 and drill a 1/2" hole in the middle of it. Get your seal and find a socket that will fit in it to drive it in place. I would also suggest you go ahead and get the bushing or the bearing ahead of time too because the local parts stores are just going to look at you like a dumbass when you ask for one.

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Pull your wheel. Remove the 2 16mm 12point bolts holding the caliper adapter to the steering knuckle. Remove caliper and support it, don't let it dangle. Remove brake disk. Remove the 4 9/16 12 point bolts holding the hub to the steering knuckle. Pull hub with axle shaft connected. Remove bolts holding 4x4 actuator on (don't remember size, I think 10mm). Remove actuator. Reach in through actuator hole and pull out the 4x4 shift collar. Check in the actuator hole for reminants of the pilot bushing/bearing. Take your socket that fits the seal, put it on the old seal and mark how deep the socket goes into the hole so you will know how far to drive your new seal. Take your all thread and put a fender washer with a nut on either side of it. Slide washer side of all thread into axle from outside and hammer old seal out. Remove nuts and washer from all thread and reinsert it into axle. Slide new seal and socket through all thread in actuator hole then put a washer and nut on. Put 2x4 on all thread on outside of steeing knuckle then put 2 washers and a nut up snug to 2x4 and try to line it up in center as best you can. Put 2 more nuts on end of all thread so you can use a box end wrench to keep the all thread from turning. Now tighten the nut next to the 2x4 until seal is in place (it will get pretty difficult to turn the nut, also seal might look like its not driving straight but it will straighten up). Install new pilot bushing or bearing into hole on end of axle shaft connected to hub. Install shift collar on inner axle through actuator hole. Install hub and axle shaft. Check for play between axle shafts in actuator hole (there should be no play). Tighten hub to knuckle bolts to 125ftlbs. Install rotor. Install caliper and tighten caliper adapter bolts to 210ftlbs. Put rtv on 4x4 actuator and install (make sure shift fork slides into slot on shift collar). Snug up bolts on actuator, make sure you don't overtighten (I don't have torque specs for these). Make sure vaccum hose and electrical plug is connected to actuator. Install wheel and tighten nuts to 135ftlbs. Top off diff with oil and you're done. Took me 5.5hrs. After driving it for a bit, top off diff again.

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Drivers side seal you have to disassemble the diff.

Yea I did two of those, my friend has a spreader makes getting the carrier in&out real nice,I also cut thin cardboard strips out lay them in the axle tube that way you're sliding the axle on clean cardboard,not picking up dirt from the inner tube:pca1:

On the part where you hammer the old seal out I forgot to put that you need a 1 1/4-1 1/2" socket on there too. Sorry it was past my bed time. Without the socket the washer will just bend.