Good post man, perhaps this will help any new guys who dont know thier VE pumps yet! :U:

sticky this please, somebody

all this is knowledge gained from screwing (literally) with my pump......ive dropped the copper washer's before and i also broke the AFC bolt.....so yeah...heed my advice......


my pump dosent have a speed screw, idle screw, or AFC spring........it might not have a afc either if i decide to run it like that, plenty of fuel on the bottom end that way.....

Good job Logan

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Nice write up, Logan.

Good job with your coloring too. You even stayed in the lines and everything. :ha:

thanks guys:choochoo:......like i stated above, some of what ive learned about the VE is from reading, but most of the stuff i learned about it was when i went out and done the work myself, i wasted alot of time, energy, and diesel fuel tweaking and tuning on my pump, the same way with rebuilding my pump......i got a 50/50 chance that it will work.....so if it dont work, im out a 20 dollar rebuild kit and Nozzle Masters in Orlando can do it for 250$.......but i atleast know how it works now and i know what i can do to make it better when i get another pump to build up.....

good post..

No mention of runaway? For shame...

nah, my truck never ran away, it stayed right where it was supposed to the whole time i was working on it, didnt have to chase it once, ill explain run away when i get back......

Attachment 58748

THIS IS THE AFC.....



Attachment 58749

THIS IS HOW THE AFC WORKS





once again its late at night and i got bored.......

Here is my experience with the speed screw, mine backed out far enough that I over-revved it and it cost me a cam, set of lifters, push-rods,valves,etc...
When I bought the truck it had a cracked timing cover, so when I had it out and torn down is when I learned about the KDP, it had already fell out! Its all better now....

What's a speed screw? The screw that limits full-throttle travel, or the full power screw that increases pump pressure?

In my experience, if you haven't tightened the lock-nut, the full power screw backs out and reduces pressure by its self; I haven't heard of it backing-in and increasing pressure.
Runaway is why you need to have a BegleStick ready to stick over your turbocharger inlet the first time you move your screw, and why you need to tighten that jam nut so that it doesn't move around on you. But also not to overtighten it because it likes to break where the O-ring is halfway down the threads...

I don't see how the high-idle screw could cause that kind of over-rev damage. I have mine fully back out, and the case of the pump itself limits throttle travel. Not to mention that no matter how much throttle travel you have, your engine speed should still be controlled by the pump governor.

What I call the speed screw is the high-idel screw, it was backed out al the way. When we put a tach. on it to set all the speeds to the CPL# it went over rated RPM untill we crancked that screw forward to limit the travel of the throtle linkage. Is the govenor on my pump screwed up? What other things cause over-rev?

First of all, the high idle screw isn't going to cause it to over-rev by itself. It's only going to let you get more RPM if you have the pedal down

But the stock governor set-up should limit RPM to a quasi-safe level (~3400 RPM), even with pedal down in neutral. In drive you shouldn't be able to get above 3000 RPM with the stock governor.

What RPM were you seeing when the engine self destructed?

I dont have a tach in my '91, we borrowed one from where my dad used to work, I had just finished putting in all my Banks stuff, on its first test drive, pulling a hill in 4th, pedal to the floor trying to make the pyro hit 1150 and POP, she died. The rest was expensive history. Sounds ike my gov has problems, the pump is totaly stock. That happened 5 years ago, have worked the heck out of the truck and have never had a probem since. I check the screw at every oil change and with a new screw and ocknut it hasnt moved since.
I've been thinking of adjusting the AFC starwheel and turning the fue screw in to the stop but I'm a little gun-shy with my pump mods on this one.

Sounds more to me like the cam walked out.

Did you mess with the cam retainer when you had the timing cover off to fix the KDP?

If you over-rev the engine, the first thing you typically hear is the valves tapping the pistons... Then you'd expect thrown retainers, broken springs... I've never heard of cams getting messed up due to high RPM's alone.

The cam retainer was was OK, used it on the new cam. I didnt hear any vavles floating because she was screaming. All the keepers were in place, no broken springs, just bent vavles, bent pushrods, some lifters had the recesed portion were the pushrod sets blew out, and a cam broke in three pieces. The valve train damage may have happened when I tried to start it again ater it died. I towed it back to the house and pulled all the rocker covers off, bumped it over and found only the first three sets of valves were moving. The KDP had fell out before all this because the timing cover had a chunk out of it already were the pin folowed one of the gears around and it went between the gear and the cover, breaking it. I didnt know about the KDP untill I found the pin in the bottom and started asking some Cummins guys some quiestions. I've came a long way on the B series since then.

sounds to me like you floated the valves, the valves stayed open, the piston hit them, slammed them shut and in the process bent them, shoved the rockers up and bent the push rods cause the cam was at full lift...........if the cam went flat the valves wouldnt open all the way up........

okay i'm still learnin about the ve pumps. this is an awesome post thank you. what i wanna know is can i [I]just[I] turn the smoke screw to create more smoke? or do i have to mess with everything else too?

You can just turn the smoke screw.

great tips guys

Robert Bosch VE-type Injection Pump

Turning up the pre 94 Ram diesel injector pump

Is it critical to have the AFC spring? The mechanic who did my install threw it away and I don't know where to find a replacement.

not crucial; theres a member running around with out one. unscrew the starwheel and go to the hardware store and find a spring; it doesnt even have to be the same spring rate probably an inch 1/2 long. just enough to push the fuel pin back up if your worried about it. it just gives you quick low end fueling kinda like running a P pump with the AFC gutted.

I was told to take out the screw on the drivers side of the pump (its right beside the idle screw, just on the drivers side). Is that the screw on the driver's side that's reffered to on in the black lettering? The one I'm talking about has a little cover on one end.

Thanks

Yes

excellent job Logan!

Thank you Logan I am new to the diesel world and I wanted to know how to tweek my pump thanks for saving me an engine LOL :c:

thanks logan. they should make this a sticky

it is in a sticky thread. it is located here:tu:

haha thansk and sorry:tu:

hell I took the little afc spring thingy out turned the star thingy in all the way and the lil smoky screw jigger Bob all the way and messed with the fuel and idle stuff AND BANG runs like a champ. (With a 2×6 in hand at all times) let me tell ya I don't have a problem with people getting to close in traffic LOL :moon:HA HA HA

Yes, thank you, and that would be me:tu:

:nice::yourock:HOT DAM, I LOVE THIS SITE!!!

ve pump
 

ok Hey everyone, i have a problem I was trying to mess with my pump(93 4x4 auto bone stock). First my fuel screw does not turn easy (yes I loosened the lock nut) what is wrong with in? next smoke screw turned down so it is flush with the lock nut no extra smoke what the hell? and last the star at the bottom it did not want to turn am i missing something or does it need a rebuild? any help will be appreciated.

yea i have had problems with the settings also but luckily no run away yet

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i had a little problem with mine . mine had a lock nut on it

great thread

When you guys pull the pump (for those of you that have someone else put the seals in), do you get the motor to t.d.c.or do you just pull the pump where it sits and put it in without turn the motor(hopefully)? In other words, when the seals are replaced, does the tech time the pump for 1st cylinder tdc or leave it , as is?:s::s:

I'm having issue with my pump. When at wot it won't build past 25psi of boost and start to surge like I'm lack fuel pressure.and my truck runs really clean with not much smoke at all. And is there any way to tell on ffs how far in it is without turnin it in till it starts to run away?