Achieving 250 hp.
 

Hi i have a 92 first gen auto 518 4x4 with 33's currently. i have the fuel pin turned, and a k&n filter. I have been reading possible mods and with much thought still havent came up with a combo. the truck has a gooseneck ball, and a reese hitch. i'm looking for a little smoke, who doesn't like just a little? The plan with the truck is about 250 horse, will be able to tow, but lookin more for mpgs and drive ability. currently my h1c makes about 8 to 10 psi. i believe it's because there arent enough ponies to get er spinning. thats the jist, what is your ideas?

Turn up that pump. Although that will decreese your Mpgs but if you want more hp and boost without spending a bunch of money that's the first step

i think you should be making more boost than that even stock from what ive heard from other people. check for some boost leaks. you should be able to get around 250 pretty easily from pump tunes, a better fuel pin, and some other basic stuff. oh and depending on how good ur tranny is and such.

FYI dont tell people on here that u want smoke its like a sin or something but anyways if u dont have guages get some before u do to much that way u dont burn it up and a 3200 gov spring makes it alot more driveable.

yep smoke aint everything. its literally ur money going up in smoke.

I would focus on beefing up the 518 before anything else, and get rid of the k&n. You might have a boost leak or the torque converter is worn out not putting a full load on the engine.

Whats wrong with the k&n?

they filter poorly and will eat up a turbo

I have ran them in both of the trucks I have owned and never had a problem.

same here. only issue i has was i put too much oil on the filter the first time when i was running my stock turbo and it made the compressor wheel have a blackish film on it, but no issues with my hx40 yet.

Ive got my pump turned up with a 3200 gov spring and a bully dog fuel pin, 75 hp injectors, HX35 turbo off of a '00 cummins, and a BHAF. Ive hardly ever seen my EGTs over 1000. Smokey if you just floor it but when the turbo lights it clears up real good and hardly even hazes. To me its good clean power. Do you have a trans cooler on your truck? It would help a ton for towing.

i have seen 4 issues with them and turbos failed due to poor filtration

i dont sell them for a reason

some guys have great luck it all depends on conditions

i'm not new to cummins, i'm new to first gens and non lock TC's. i didnt say i was going to go around "rolling coal" like a jack wagon. i want to familiarize myself with the VE pump and it's settings. and beable to tune it. the K&N will stay, and the trans/tc has about 5k miles on it. no boost leaks. i dont believe in throwing money at something for a solution. what pump mods, including a fuel pin # would you suggest? and would a smaller exhaust housing or an hx35 be a good solution? i have boost, egt, rpm, and trans temp gauges.

Denny T stage two fuel pin, i really like mine, ask big bad diesel to show you the link w/ all the tech info on VE pumps as he has done for me,

The only problems I've ever seen with k&n are when people don't service them correctly, run them with tears, or when people buy the cheapo knock-offs. Never have I seen problems cause by a well maintained genuine k&n.

I had a K&N Filter in my 07 6.7L and it ate up the turbo at 100,000. Had it in there for about 30,000 miles but before that ran a stock filter up until 70,000 and changed it with every service at 5,000 then threw the K&N on and I did clean it and re oil it correctly it's just they suck if you live in the country. But for people who live in the city they are great but out here better keep your stock filter on. And these first gens filters are big enough I beleive enough air goes through them just change them out more often. :c:

How can u say it was the filter?That would be like changeing your oil and a couple weeks later your engine blows up but that dont mean the oil done it.

Does if it was the wrong oil :tttt: I personally won't use a k&n just because you can hold it to the light and see holes in the gauze. They rely entirely too much on the oil in the gauze to trap the dirt rather than the media itself. They're really using 50+ year old technology, using the fundamentals of an oil bath air filter. AFE dry flow is my new fav filter, you can wash em' and reuse them just like the k&n. Filter of choice for the truck, a good ol bhaf. Haven't looked into a dry flow, can only imagine the price. M&H timin spacer... Some of the best money you can spend on your pump and it'll make your fueling mods barely noticeable smoke wise and bump you up to 250 in a hurry.


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Brice is right. I've never had issues with a K&N, but I have seen them. They'll filter okay, but they come apart and end up in your turbo. I've also heard less than spectacular stories about the AFE. People running them have had way more silicon in their oil when they run a test, which means you're getting plenty of flow, but it's not filtering. The AFEs have worse reads than the stocker.

Brice could u tell me what an S&B filter is made out of because they look an awful lot like a K&N?

Ive never had a problem with k&n but i just figured that the BHAF might be the better way to go. Id say since you have gauges, get a fuel pin or you can grind yours how you want it, and turn your full power screw in a turn or two. That should give you a little bit more power.

i hate to ruin the OP's thread with all this K&N B.S. there has been hundreds of post on this topic through the internet and it always turns out the same way as it has here in the last few post some like them some dont, there is no happy spot as it has been said before.

please note that i dont care for anything but a paper filter but if i had to use an oiled i would use an S&B..........

K&N filters have one of the worst filtration rates on the market here is a prime example,
a K&N filter that flows 600CFM is 6X4X2 cone shape where another brand filter say the stock one flows 600CFM and is 8X6X4 so how do you make something flow the same amount of air and be in a smaller package? you make the pleats bigger allowing more particles to "slip past" now this may or may not hurt the engine (depending on condition) but why risk it and as said above they have too many "hopes" that oil will trap everything but large rocks

here is a great test for you the next time you clean your K&N filter take your intake pipe off and shoot a little spot of oil inside there this will make most of the dirt that passes the filter stick then the next time you clean the filter look at the oil spot and see how dirty it is

and on a final note NO filter i have ever seen besides paper are double reinforced for forced induction now i have seen lots of filters not everyone ever made so i could be wrong here but i have yet to see one what this prevents is when your filter becomes very dirty and that ole turbo is sucking like a whore in the parking lot your filter can collapse and be sucked right in this is a rare occasion but it can happen

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oh and to answer this i dont remember the exact material but K&N is a cotton poly blend the other is a synthetic cotton

and the S&B flows something like (example) 20CFPI so in 1sq in 20CFM can pass and be filtered 99.9% where a K&N is 86%

its all in ratings and volume oil filters are the same way from wix, fram, K&N, Cummins ect ect filter 99.9% of the oil but only trap 52% of the crap where a cat brand filter, filters 99.9% of the oil and trap 99.9% of the crap now they cost 3 times as much and last 1/2 as long cuz they plug and bypass so is it worth it........

Hit a sore spot Brice? :tttt: I'd love for my centrifuge to work properly so I'd have peace of mind no matter what oil filter I ran, but I think k & n were the entrepreneurs of the high performance filtration market so they just have a firmer hold and more of their claims are taken as gospel. But numbers don't lie, neither does logic, smaller filter flowing the same CFM, they have one hell of a secret hah!


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first i would look through this thread, go down till you see performance, check out the pump sections and read through them, make shure you read about runaway.

FAQ/Knowledge base "How do I...?" Look here first! A.K.A. "The Sticky" - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

the things i have in my sig would give you way over 250hp and i can tow anything with no problems from my EGT's.

as far as i'm conserned the HX35 is not a good upgrade, a super HX40, or an HX40 with a 7 blade wheel is a good upgrade, i have a GDS 60mm wheel and a 16cm housing on my HC1 and i can make 40psi boost with a max of 1250 EGT and while crusing down the hwy get 18.5 mpg.:jump:

as far as the air filtration, i use this one because john deere thinks it good enough for a combine....have you ever seen a combine in a been field.......if not you have probly seen the dust from it.

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Dar

to the post above... i am a john deere technician. thumbs up on the crossing over of parts. good way to clean air. this filter will keep clean air to a 7.6 liter engine cobbed out for 50 hours at least, not to mention not get plugged. i've have to SHOVEL the dirt out of the shop after knocking/ blowing one of these out. i will check out the sticky. thank you all for your input!