So you could just take it out and put some loctite on the bolts and it would be ok right?

For those asking, heres a thread on KDP damage with pics:

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...ml#post3561319

This happened to my 91!!!!!!!! I've been stewing over it for 3 years now.... (i did cash-4-clunkers with it and got 4 grand which was what i paid for it... so no huge loss but i bet anything this was it!!!!! driving down the road.... pop... little white smoke and that was it!!!!:jump::jump:

If you are going to get far enough into it to remove the kdp... then why not just tab it ?????????

Because then u would never ever have to worry about the isp again at all because all that would be left to fall out would be bolts.

anyone know the torque specs on the timing case bolts so i can check them when i tab the KDP this week

i did mine a month ago on my 93 with 290,000 and it didnt move, but i dont what to risk it when im modding it.

I am also interested in torque specs

Anyone find where the torque specs might be posted?

Gear housing 18ft.lbs. , Gear housing cover 18ft.lbs. , Vibration damper bolts 92 ft.lbs.
that's from a 92 factory service manual

Did you get the KDP tabbed? If so, I would like to know how that went for you. Gearing up to probably do mine soon. Thx

Who sells a kit for the 89-93 12v? They have a little different case and the flat tab probably wouldn't work. I did pricing on a seal and gasket and the kits are about the same price... So I'm thinking I might just buy the kit.
I took mine all apart it was pretty easy, although mine isn't in a truck right now just getting it ready to put in.

I wouldn't bother with a kit. A bolt with a tab or washer and some RTV and you're good to go. :tu: But Geno's has them, PDR I think has them, BBD might do too.

Yes, you can get the correct tab kit direct from TST and Genos. Genos sells the TST kit at the same price as direct from TST at $65.00

I read through through their install info. They show lifting out the entire clutch fan assembly with the pully mount together as one unit. I was thinking that the reverse threaded fan clutch was going to be separated from the pulley but it doesn't :jump:

For those that have done this, has anyone found any disadvantage between RTV vs a Cummins timing cover gasket? I know the new engines are assembled with RTV only but I am thinking more from of an assembly perspective or odds of leaking or not getting a good seal. The new engines using RTV only are done with the engine out of the vehicle so it is much easier to get a perfectly done RTV seal on contact. I have never been a hugh fan of RTV due to portions that are always pushed into the engine no matter how sparingly applied. Opinions in this application? Also, have others pulled all 5 cap screws out of the gear case and applied red thread locker to them or just checked torque and tightened if needed? Lastly, I am wanting to know from others that used the TST kit with the seal alignment sleeve how that part went?

No Problem
 

Being in or out of the truck has nothing to do with it. The only trick to it is allowing the RTV to cure before finish tightening. Assemble finger tight and let it sit overnight. I've been using RTV on various assemblies this way for years, no problem.

The old saying, "haste makes waste" applies. :tu:

The dowel pin is used for alighnment, there is 5 bolts that hold the gear housing on to the block, I have heard alot of people say timeing slip, I have checked with the enginers behind the desighn of the pin, there is no information on timing slip if the gear housing does not have the pin installed.

I dont want to take money away from anyone and the little tab is a pretty neat way to fill a need (the old saying see a need, fill a need) I have installed some marine engines where I did not install the pin, they are still running and have had no timing problems.

from 89 to 95 (I think, cant remeber ) they drilled the gearhousing all the way through and there would be issues with the pin falling out, they started making the gearhousing where it was the bore for the pin was tappered and they would also nutch the pin to help it from coming out.

In my opinion you do not need the pin installed because if those 5 bolts slip or even move whil on the block, you are going to more than just a pin problem.

i used a piece of 22 gauge steel and made a little tab and drilled it for the bolt right next to the kdp and tightened it down over the kdp and i did it for the price of gaskets and time.

Did you replace the front seal or just put the cover back on with the old one? Did you remove and thread lock the 5 gear case bolts of just check torque on them? Was there a reason you went with a cover gasket rather than just RTV?

I just did my KDP on my 1989 6bt, I used a 40mm bolt and a piece of 1/2 flat bar that I cut a chunk out of because the 89-93s have a different case. I got a new gasket and seal. i got some pictures of how it looks.
Attachment 41225
Attachment 41226
Attachment 41227

All in all it was pretty simple, just drilled a hole, made a template (cardboard) and cut it out with plasma. Then took my cut off wheel and cut the notch into it, and did some filing to finish it off. Loctite and a lock washer should keep it from moving.... I hope

i was wondering if wen i do the tab, can i use some type of adhesive to fill the hole with the pin in there on my 93

Any reason you did not go with RTV instead of the original gasket? Any tips or issues with getting the new timing cover front seal in?

I can't remember which is stronger, red or green Loctite. Whichever is stronger, use that. :tu:

i replaced the front seal, wear sleeve too. i put a p pump on my truck so i was doing alot of work. im not a fan of rtv, i hate it with a passion. i spend the money everytime for gaskets. gaskets makes everything look cleaner

That chunk of steel you just bolted in there is bigger than the one it it supposed to be protecting against. :humm:

Ok. I was thinking about going with the Cummins gasket as well. Then I thought about the difficulty of keeping the gasket on that hugh cover perfectly in place while trying to get the seal over the crank shaft. Did you let your gasket set up on the cover with some type of adhesive to keep it in place when installing that cover? There was a wear sleeve on there...so I take it the seal was replaced previously then?

Use some sewing thread and tie it to the cover until you start the bolts then cut it off.

A drop of engine builders grease or white lithium grease will hold the gasket in place. Or get two bolts of the same thread size, and making sure they will be long enough, cut the heads off. Now you have a pair of guide studs. :tu: If you want to get extra fancy you can take your cutting wheel to them and cut a place for a flathead screw driver to go on the shank of the bolt. Slip the gasket over the studs so it doesn't go anywhere, then put the cover back on. 2 cover bolts later, take the studs out and viola! :c:

i live on a farm and we had this gasket adhesive we got from our local case ih dealer, it worked good held the gasket on no problem. it was like $3. it was just called gasket adhesive

Appreciate the feedback. As I am new to Cummins motors so I just want to make sure I get all info ahead of time. I don't care about the extra cost of a gasket only want to do the job once. Don't want to have to pull it right back apart again because of an oil leak at the cover. I know the TST kit folks use Grey RTV. Not sure how well that works out while trying to get the new crank seal slipped over the alignment sleeve. That 1/8 inch bead of RTV might not work out to well...

I bought a 98 12 valve dodge for a cummins swap in a 89 chevy crew cab . Before I dropped it in I did the dowel pin , and after 183,xxx it was out about 3/16 of an inch. I peened it , then tabbed it , and tightened the case bolts (which were also loose) . In my mind it was the best time I have spent with the engine. Just my .02

you can use weatherstrip adhesive to hold a gasket in place it's yellow and is commonly called gorilla snot

Yeah, I have heard that in some motors a case bolt came out instead of the dowl pin. Definately a must do preventative item getting under that timing cover. I need to remove the cover anyway to fix a small oil leak at the bottom of the cover gasket so it is time to do it all. Did you go with RTV or an original Cummins gasket? Any difficulties getting the new crank seal in?

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I have worked with that stuff on new weatherstrip installs. It definately resembles something on the order of 2 day old snot from someone with a bad case of the flu. I think I have some Hi Tack gasket adhesive and sealant in my garage. It works well too and is compatible with engine oil.

[QUOTE=sootnsmoke;767535]Yeah, I have heard that in some motors a case bolt came out instead of the dowl pin. Definately a must do preventative item getting under that timing cover. I need to remove the cover anyway to fix a small oil leak at the bottom of the cover gasket so it is time to do it all. Did you go with RTV or an original Cummins gasket? Any difficulties getting the new crank seal in?

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The crank seal came with a sleeve to install it , went smooth . I used a gasket maker made for atvs made by permatex , it's gray , and called ultraseal ,and we use it to mate case halfs together on engines.

when i remove the timing cover the gasket was in great condition after the check pin and tabbed i reused the same gasket with a little silacone on both sides. i bought a new crank seal for cummins it came with the sleeve to in stall on motor $12.00. the only thing i notice was getting the seal in straight be carful not to tape it to hard as it does not have a flange to keep it from be tapped thru not like on a gas motorthat has a flange to stop the seal . make sure it is in straight i installed mine the first time and it looked as if it was in to far.but worked out fine as i had a lite groove on my crankshaft and the seal was a hair passed the groove no leaks.when you install timing cover put the sleeve on the crank first then slide the timing cover on an the sleeve will pop out and can be pulled off. (made my own tab out of stainless and picked up a longer bolt at a local auto parts $1.19. i know people that reuse the same bolt. with no problems. saves $ 60.00 plus dollars.

I would just rather have a gasket, just because it looks nicer and i hate cleaning up rtv.
And the seal :argh: I put the seal in the cover first, then tried to put it on the engine. I had trouble getting the seal in the cover, and getting the cover with seal on the engine.

Yes I know, but I didn't like the looks of how tight of a bent I would have to make in order to made a tab out of sheet metal.

If you have to clean it up, you put too much on. Also, as someone else here suggested, let it cure somewhat first, then tighten whatever it is down. :tu: