Sleeve Puller
 

What is the process for re-sleeving a engine? How do you get the old sleeves out? Is it easier to just re-sleeve than to bore? I have excessive blow-by, but i havent taken it apart yet to see how bad things are worn. Im just wondering if its easier to pound in new sleeves as oppose to boring.

as far as i know our truck cummins dont have sleeves like the big rigs do. i think they get bored either50 or a100 over and get corresponding pistons. if the damage is too bad they can be sleeved. but you could probably find a whole good condition used motor for the price of sleeving a block.

No sleeves in the b series Cummins.

Correct. Our small-bore engines have no sleeve. They're known as 'parent bore' engines. It may be possible to bore it oversize and get bigger rings, but with a parent bore, sometimes there's not enough material between each cylinder to be able to do it. There needs to be a minimum amount of metal there to wick away all the heat.
And as Clem said, it really wouldn't be worth sleeving one of our blocks, if it's possible to do it at all.

I should have added alittle more to my last post. Sleeving can be done, but it makes the cylinder wall thickness to thin. Its best to bore them and then get the oversized pistons.

i've seen it done in a ford tractor. one cylinder was tore up. the block was sent to a machine shop for a pressed in dry sleeve. it can be done because your taking metal away but then your adding it back as long as its done in a secure way like a machine shop can do

Ah I see. Sorry the service manual was a little confusing. So any ideas why I could have excessive blowby??? I dont know exactly what i have for pressure as I havent had time to get the manometer out. I do know that i can see smoke coming out of the draft tube at an idle even after driving for hours. There is also oil actively coming out of the tube. more than usual. The truck isnt stock by any means and it can get hot once in a while if im not careful.

Well, the rings are what seals the gasses in there right? So, if I were to hazard a guess, I'd say your rings are worn to a greater or lesser extent. It could well be it's just the rings, and the bore itself is fine. Either way, you're going to have to pull the head and pan and verify.
Just when you thought you were done... :argh:

Iwould lean toward rings as well. Ideally you can rering a motor and if cylinder diameter is too excessive, then not bore over. But if wore excesslly or scored. Then over boring may be the only option.IMO

I personlly like the sleeves, you have a piston that goes bad, pull out sleeve, put in new one, hone with hand held deglazer, put new piston and rings on and a way you go.

it is kinda exspensive to sleeve a 6bt, but if you can afford it, I recomend it.

keeps a block for a long time, if you bore the block to .5 mm over, you can not put sleeves in it and if yo score another hole, you must buy new block;there are sleeve company's who make sleeves for bores that are .5mm but I dont recomend that.

only problem with sleeves, got to have exspensive coolant or make sure you have the anti cavatation additive in it.

once you have a sleeved engine, it is very cheap to replace, I get sleeves for 20.00 each and one piston coast about 40 to 50 dollars so a total of about 70.00 I can fix, if you dont have sleeves and you need to bore oversized, you must replace all pistons and rings with what ever over size you go with.