egr brakes for 1st gen
 

anybody out there tried the egr rear disc kit? do you need aproportining valve? does your abs work with the rear discs? love the cummins , but the dodge part is driving me thru the wall:argh:

A proportioning valve is needed on any vehicle. When you stomp on the brake pedal weight transfers to the front makes the rear lighter and easier to lock up. Which is likely to cause the vehicle to spin. Our trucks should already have one and if you do this conversion youll have to switch it out, good news is they make universal ones that are adjustable with a knob. Just takes a little time playing engineer in the garage.

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By the way, the proportioning valve is only there if your ABS fails. If yours works (mine doesnt) you really dont need one.

Hell teh ABS on these truck is a joke from the factory.

But yeah what he said... :D

Removed mine. Unplugged it, and it brakes much better

me too, just gotta know how to drive a non-ABS truck...

On my '93 W250 Clubcab, the EGR kit works just fine running the original proportioning valve. The RWAL works well too (FWIW). :)

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I KNEW somebody did this upgrade... David I should have guesses it was you... :D

Thanks for the post, does teh ABS work better with the discs then it did with the factory drums? I tried everything I could to get my factory set-up to work well. no matter what it worked better by passed.

that is actually not true. alot of cars do not use them especially now a days. chevy trucks do not use them. instead they use dual feed master cylinders where the master cylinder controls how much fluid goes to the front and rear without the use of a proportionin valve. alot of ford vehicles do that too. and especially anything with a true 4 wheel abs setup from the mid 90's on will not use one either. they use the hydraulic abs module to control how much fluid moved to each wheel

All vehicles have some sort of proportioning valve. Wether it be a regular proportioning valve,height sensing, adjustable, combination valve, or an electronic one such as a Delphi DBC-7 which is built into the ABS module and performs the same function as a regular valve. The Tandem Master cylinder has been required by SAE since 1967. Maybe your confusing it with a quick take up master cylinder which almost obsolete now. I can't find the master cylinder your referring to, even in my new college text book for automotive Engineering-brake systems. Im interested in how it works though if you could show me!

Bobby, I couldn't say for sure as I've never really given it much thought. To the best of my limited knowledge on the workings of the RWAL system, ours simply pulses the rear wheel's hydraulic supply pressure based on a signal from the Tone-Ring thing in the rear differential. The RWAL control in the dash is programmed to basically monitor the rotation of the ring-gear. If it slows too rapidly (as in a panic brake application), it activates the RWAL device on the driver's frame rail, just behind the fuel tank. That thing modulates the brake fluid pressure such that while the wheels may be, or want to be locked, it'll so to speak, interrupt the full pressure (by way of solenoids and an accumulator), allowing the rear wheels to rotate a little, so as to allow regaining traction (if only for a split second), then resume full pressure till the next command to pulse.

I know mine works in that fashion as when I jab the brakes FIRMLY on wet pavement, and back off a little, I can feel a pulsing in the brake pedal as well as feel the rear of the truck shudder (in sync with the pedal). It's a diminishing series of pulses.

It doesn't work with a full on panic, gonna run over a child application of the brakes. It's geared toward the more common inadvertent locking of the wheels. Further, it's capacity in how long it can carry on as such is limited to the size of the accumulator (and the master cylinder's stroke perhaps). It's to help reduce the chance of loss of control.


Bobby, I guess to better answer your question, if the brakes system you're using can't slow the wheels fast enough, the tone ring on the rear end won't slow rapidly enough to have the controller recognize the event as being a loss of traction. Further, if you don't back off quickly (as in a jab application. Still locked, you're just not standing on the pedal), it won't activate. Make sense?

DON'T quote me on the actual/correct function. The above is just my interpretation. And as folks might tell ya, I'm crazy. :tttt: :scare2: