throttle position sensor
 

So i went up north this weekend and on the way back the rig would shift down out of OD constantly. I plugged in the DRBII at work and got a code for TPS voltage below minimum. i watched the data screen and saw there was no change in tps% when the peddle was depressed. my question is where can i get a TPS that doesnt cost $270 from the parts store. My price at work from dodge is around $500.

It sounds more like a wiring problem than a TPS problem to me. Faulty TPS's on these trucks tend to be jumpy and erratic; I would think that a below-minimum voltage would mean that it just got disconnected.

The only thing the TPS effects is shifting into overdrive. It is common to ditch the TPS and replace it with a potentiometer; that way you can bluff the computer into thinking the TPS is wherever and dial in your shift point according. Alternately you can just put the overdrive on a simple toggle switch and never worry about things operating automatically again.

Go to dnrcustoms.com 989.280.9384 they make a overdrive shift fix kit (potentiometer)
Was an ad in dieselpower mag in the febuary issue.
This should resolve your problems.

no it was deffinetly a TPS sensor, because i have a 5 volt supply and a ground at the harness end. i also read OL when i try to measure the resistance of the TPS sensor its self.

Potentiometer and be done.

yeah today at work i recalibrated the TPS sensor, since you can change its point of orgin, or what the computer thinks is 0% throttle. that worked all day, until tonight when it screwed up. i just ordered the potentiometer for it.

Or a toggle and be even more done with it.


I swear, what do you people have against toggles? :D

Begle, were you or are you a trucker?

I've noticed a lot of rigs having toggles in them so I was wondering if it had just become a habit to have a dozen of them to play with.:tttt::moon:

Nope, not a trucker.

I just have a few (dozen) bizarre fetishes, toggle switches being one of them.

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Did you take off your blinker switch so you had an excuse to do it manually with a toggle?

I think I would classify you as having an addiction, obsession, or just plain add for having that many toggles. ha ha:moon:

Like the shifter though. What B&M is that? Don't get a Quick Silver, took mine to the shop one day and the idiot almost broke the damn thing out the truck when all he had to do was LIFT UP!:argh:

Let's see, that's stock headlight switch and fan control switch.

Two SPDT toggles on the Headlight Control panel (along with an "INVERTER ON" button that I wasn't smart enough to reverse-engineer into a toggle), eight SPST toggles on the top row of the "info" panel replacement, three general-purpose DPDT toggles on the second row of that panel, below the blend door slider are two SPDT toggles and a pushbutton controlling HVAC solenoids, the panel below the steering column has four SPST toggles, and out of the frame on the shifter is a SPST toggle for overdrive.

So that comes out to an even 20 toggles (and two pushbuttons).


The blinker switch is stock, that's just my custom copper NPT blinker lever. That shizz gunna be sweeeet when I get it all wrapped in some sorta wrappin'. I decided that something had to change after I broke the fourth or fifth stock blinker lever.

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It's a B&M Light-Truck Megashifter, straight off the shelf at Kragen. (The red military-covered switch is for overdrive.)

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They supposedly have issues with cable bindings and collapsing forward. I haven't had a lick of trouble with the shifting cable, and I sure hope it never collapses forward because that'd be really bad and expensive.

Not many people know how to drive it without a quick lesson, but everything on my truck requires at least a quick lesson. "Dad, start the engine by flipping up the switch on the far right under the map light, then flip the switch back off within ten seconds of the engine starting. Yes, to crank the engine you have to turn the key with one hand and pull up on the top push-rod on the left-hand side of the steering column. Okay, now you have vacuum, to turn on the defoggers all you have to do is flip the Auxiliary Inverter switch on the bottom left of the panel below the steering column. That is connected to the 120-24 volt transformer. Now you have power to the HVAC solenoids. You have to vent vacuum in the actuators by pushing the button underneath the blend door slider. No, keep that button pressed. While keeping it pressed, flip the two horizontally-mounted toggles to the right. The left one controls vacuum to the heater core valve and the recirculation door, the left one closes the head vents and opens the defog and floor vents. Alright, after both those toggles are to the right and you close the vacuum venting solenoid you should have defoggers. The fan's not working good? Okay, no problem. Flip the second switch from the left under the map light to the "down" position to turn on the alternator. That should let the fan work better."

Ya gotta be careful with these things. They are gonna be a classic here soon!

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Anyways.....ummmm.... sorry for hijacking your thread here, guess the smart-a**es come out at night while the normal people sleep.:tttt: