Diesel Bombers - Need an Extra Inch?

No, it's not male enhancement spam! Just another installment from the NadirPoint Dodge Cummins howto library: my version of the RCC lift. A couple years ago after the snow threat was over I uninstalled my redneck leveling kit (300lbs. of concrete blocks in the bed). Then looking at it later, I realized the truck sits with a bit more forward rake than I'd like. It had a tail-high stance running the Skyjacker 2" front springs and 6" rear springs without blocks, by at least a couple inches. I had been planning on moving up to 35" tires ever since I installed the Gear Vendor OD unit with the speedo set up for that size tire. It looked like 2" lift just the springs gave up front "might" be enough to clear 35s, but I wanted to make sure as well as level it a bit. This little project also goes hand-in-hand with a new front driveshaft. Gotta get rid of that tiny U-joint on the D60. So here's what I'll call the ABL kit - (Aluminum Block Leveling kit):

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_153.jpg
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_154.jpg

There's 2 keys to making this work right. A hardened aluminum alloy is most appropriate, and the bolt holes should be precisely drilled for a nice, snug fit. I found some 6061 T6 stock - the same stuff forged aluminum wheels are made of. There's no way it will bolt up in with a solid billet piece like this if the holes don't line up perfectly. That's easy enough to do using the mount as a template. But first you have to get it taken apart. Those big rivets don't come out easy!

I used 1/2" 20-pitch grade 8 bolts to put it back together. It's assembled with RTV to seal it and minimize any possible accelerated corrosion due to the dissimilar metals. Nuts loctited, of course. The frame and mount holes needed drilled out. Seems like the rivets were just a tad under half inch in diameter. But I wouldn't go any bigger than that to preserve the integrity of the mount. There's only one 1/2" bolt holding the spring through the bushing anyway.

Shackles at the rear mounts were fairly straightforward - just a pair of 3/8" x 1.5" flat bar stock, made one inch longer with ears to hold the bolt heads. You want the bolts turning in the bushings, not on the shackles. Assemble with everything greased up nicely and grade 8 hardware loctited again as usual for critical components like this:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_156.jpg

Last but not least, a new 2" drop pitman arm went on:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_155.jpg

The previous owner saw fit to forgo this option when he installed the Skyjacker springs. Probably not one of the best ideas he ever had. Took a 13-ton puller to get that sucker off. Maybe he figured that was something he was just not interested in even trying. The steering was a little off due to this and I'm sure would have become quite crappy had I stretched the draglink another inch without the drop pitman. Had to re-clock the steering wheel on the input shaft about a quarter turn to get it set where I wanted it again. Worked out real well. Just 2 inches of lift without addressing the steering is definitely a no-no. The drag link geometry is the way it is for good reason - very noticeable (in a bad way) when not right. Should have took a before picture, but oh well...

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_157.jpg