fuel in fuel pin hole...
 

i took my fuel pin out to check the travel on it from where the little thing touches it and its only traveling like an 1/8 inch on my pin. is this from low boost or something? i turned the star wheel down a little to see if it helps. there was also fuel in there that i never noticed before. seal or something going out?

low boost is a pretty good possibility; or the pin is getting hung up. fuel in the hole could be from a leaky seal... or if you worked the throttle with the fuel pin out it can push the pin out to the point it'll allow it to leak, usually at that point you have to "work" the pin back in its bore. it isnt anything too bad to do. i made that mistake after my gov spring and fuel pin install. filled the AFC housing clear full of fuel. after you get full travel out of your fuel pin you'll notice a good increase in power tho. hope it all works out for ya man :c:

and when i put my denny t pin i was excited and in a hurry and forgot the little washer thing. thats when it started leaking. i came home and put it back on and now the damn pin isnt moving right. maybe ill turn the smoke screw way down and see if it dose anything

washer has nothing to do with it... been running the stocker that i cut WAY deep with out it for a while now... its just the added travel of that the seal isnt used to. it may seal back up... not the best possibility but weirder things have happened

don't trust that it'll seal back up on it's own. it's more than likely a bad fuel pin seal. sorry this is so lengthy but here it goes...

a bosch rebuild kit (DGK-121) will get you all the seals you'd need to completely reseal the pump if you needed to. any fuel injection shop should be able to get you one for around $16. the shop i bought from suggested using STP's "Oil Treatment" lubricant on all the o-rings along with buying 2 new BB's (only $0.99 each) as well which are what hold the AFC lever's shaft in the housing. the old ones normally wear enough to cause a leak if re-installed. other's have been lucky enough reusing them with no leaks. i replaced them to ensure only having to do it once and get it right the first time. this is a really easy task to accomplish.

the 4 bolts hold the pump top down take 5mm alan keys and i would suggest using the ball-end style keys. especially for the bolt under the idle screw. if you're timing is bumped, you'll have to remove the idle screw. if it's not, the ball-end alan key will save you from having to do so. the bolt under the idle screw won't come out entirely but just keep a hand on the pump top when it comes down to the last few threads until it's out. push the throttle shaft through the pump top and set the top aside. you'll want to put a new seal on the throttle shaft anyhow so don't worry about it. unhook the governor spring from the "top hat" on the governor arm assembly but be sure keep a finger on the back side of it so it doesn't drop into the pump. otherwise, you'll be fishing for it with a magnet or worse, tearing the pump apart to retrieve it.

you'll need to drive the 2 BB's out from each side of the pump using a narrow punch and hammer. start on one side with the punch on the BB to drive the opposite BB out of it's resting place. once it falls out, turn the pump to the other side and repeat the process to drive the remaining BB out as well. you can then tap on the AFC lever shaft to remove it. then pull the AFC lever out from the housing being aware of it's position to ensure proper re-installation.

next, there's a plug at the base of the AFC housing that faces the front of the pump. remove this plug ensuring to keep the sealing washer that is under it. once removed, if you look just behind it, you'll see another "plug" which is really just a retainer for the fuel pin seal. you'll need a 4.5mm alan key to remove this retainer. once done, using a small, narrow pair of needle nosed plyers, CAREFULLY pull the fuel pin out. remove the old seal and clean up the pin really good.

the new seal is the smallest in the kit. it's green and should be easy to find. slip it onto the fuel pin and apply some of the oil treatment lubricant mentioned above. then carefully reinstall the fuel pin just the way it came out. then using a small pick or dull screw driver, carefully press the seal into the recess surrounding the fuel pin to be sure it's seated. reinstall the retainer plug and snug it up good. reinstall the bigger plug that covers the fuel pin. place the AFC lever back in the housing the way it was before, slip the lever's shaft into the bore from the side of the pump and drive one of the BB's into the bore until it is flush with the housing. flip the housing over and do the same with the remaining BB.

before you prepare to reinstall the pump top, i would suggest measuring how far the fuel screw protrudes from the pump top and then remove it. i measured mine from the jam nut to the end of the screw. replace the o-ring found on the screw and apply the oil treatment lubricant. do not install the screw just yet!!

replace the throttle shaft o-ring and apply the oil treatment lubricant on it. now, if it's in the plans, install a 3200 spring while you've got the opportunity. the fuel injection shop should be able to get you one. i got mine for $14. i also would suggest replacing the pump top gasket before reinstalling the top. it's in the kit as well and should be noticeable enough to tell which one it is. wipe the sealing surface of both the pump top and the main housing of the pump. get them clean and free of debris. after hooking up the governor spring to both the throttle shaft and the top hat, push the throttle shaft into it's bore of the housing. set the housing down onto the pump and begin tightening the first bolt under the idle screw. install and tighten the remaining 3 bolts evenly. be sure to re-index the throttle shaft the way it was prior to removal. if you install a 3200 spring, you may have to adjust your idle down just a bit. you can now reinstall the fuel screw and be sure to get it just right. you don't wanna be even 1/8 of a turn further than it was and risk having a runaway upon start up. you should still have a board of some sturdy material handy when you do start it, however. some have had theirs runaway even though the fuel screw is where it was before. i know this may be a lot to read, but i just went off of my own memory when resealed mine. if you'd like, i can link you to an article with pictures so you can have a better understanding of just what you'll be getting into.

-Jim

Its leaking because of the denny t pin.

thanks for the write up man. i think ill just let it leak till i can get money to let a shop mess with it. that sounds kinda complicated and the last time i took a pump apart it cost me 1100 hundred bucks to have a shop fix it so im pretty shy when it comes to takin it apart.

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dont think it was the denny t. my stock pin was ground more and i never had the problem with it.

A denny t allows the small pin to come out more then a ground stock cone will allow. Some pumps just don't like the increased travel the aftermarket pins allow.

x2 Here is the comparison pic that RSWORDS took.

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