Trim Holes? how to fill?
Will be getting back into the body work on my truck here soon. Just wondering for any of you guys that have taken the trim off, how did you fill the hole from the fender flares, front of the fenders, and back of the cab behind the door. Only option i can think of is filling with a weld but am afraid of warping the metal from the heat. any ideas?
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you can weld them but it will warp even on light heat. a kinda redneck way but it works good is to put some tape behind the hole, and fill it with bondo or jb weld. not the correct way, but it works good and is easy to do
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redneck way i never read about that in the redneck rules and regulations:w2:
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Yeah, it's made from pages of ducktape, written with grease in pictographs form, and bound with bailing wire.
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hehehe if you got a spare send me one but really back to Ttipsword question i have seen it done like tltruckparts said but what about soldering or tinning as they say never seen it done but heard about it :humm:
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I take a ball peen hammer and put a little dent on each hole then fill it with bondo, it gives the bondo allittle more to hold on to
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i may just end up putting a piece of sheet metal on the insed of the fender, tack weld it in carefully then use a fiberglass filler to bring it flush. See what my auto body teacher thinks. I was going to fill the holes up with cab lights but dont know if that might look wierd and to much lighting.
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Would make for a helluva chicken truck
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brazing is what I do.
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like sneed said, ball peen hammer and push area arounnd hole in for more surface area for bondo to grab to. another good way is to go to a local west marine and pick up MARINE TEX it is 10x the strength of bondo and alot easier to handle
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long strand fiber glass, push it in and smear it around on the backside, make sure it has a good bite. it will more than likey sag a little bit but you can sand it flush and then use some regular body putty or glaze for a nice finish. done this with two trucks now, works like a charm and no cracks.
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brass behind the hole then weld. but idk how bad it'd warp
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take a piece of 1" or 3/4" copper pipe and cut it to a length you can work with. flatten it out with a 3lb hammer. if you have a 110 mig welder put it on its lowest setting or what a chart recomends for the type of wire it has and the thickness of the metal. put the piece of copper on the back side of the whole and make a like a tac weld and fill in the little whole. the weld wont stick to the copper. so the back side will be nice and flush then take your grinder or polishing grinder and grind the outside part of it down nice and smooth. it shouldnt warp. if it does your putting out to much heat or are welding for too long a time. if you use a polishing wheel you shouldnt have to use to much filler on it. if you do use the new bondo/glass stuff they have now. much stronger and is waterproof. good luck. :tu::c:
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^^ that too. it wont stick to brass either. which works out if you have a brass hammer layin around like i do
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I used my hogan mag drill to make plugs drilling out 1/4 plate. I then used the mig welder on low heat to tack the edges in. I ground the weld flush with a flapper disk on a 4 inch grinder then covered it with a thin layer of bondo.
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