calling all tranny gurus
 

ive got a 1993 d250 with 400,000 plus miles on it. after i bought i slightly tweaked the pump and well the trans didnt like. so i pulled it put in new clutches and steels seals and gaskets, it already had a straight cut gear 5 pinion aluminum OD planetary, i replaced the other planetary with a 5 pinion steel setup, new factory style torque convertor(couldnt afford a goerend) and installed a shift kit to bump up line pressure, increase shift points, and installed a manual fill valve to help with oiling. two questions. 1. how is the tailshaft speed sensor orientated as to allow the speedo to work with out cheing up the gear. i can probably figure it out but wanna be positive. bc i have no speedo and no OD. 2. i have to start truck up and let run at idle in nuetral for about 15 mins before truck will move. i can put in gear f or r at startup cold, it will lurch as it goes in to gear but it will not move, at full throttle it will crawl on level ground thats it. when checking fluid level its 3in to high on dipstick cold, and in the ok when warm. after shes warm drives fantastically. had an expert trans guy help on build but he no longer works here to help with trouble shooting. trans was air checked and all seemed to be fine on the bench help me please

1. The orientation of the gear holder is based on the number of teeth of the driven gear. Each range of teeth has a mark that lines up with a tick on the case.

2. Offhand I'd say you have a sticking valve that is not realeasing until it warms up, or, there is some small piece of FOD in the valve bore that is causing it to jam.

mine did the same thing after i had the tranny rebuilt.it eventually caused the tranny to go completely out :argh:. it had a valve that was by-passing and i they make a valve that engages the pump in neutral. dodges dont engage untill you put them in gear. after rebuild number two i think it finally works right. knock on wood

pulled the pan off after checking line pressure, which was good so pump still pushes fluid. Pan had metal debris in it and fluid looked like glitter kinda like it did when original convertor crapped out. i think maybe torque convertor bad, but i dont understand why it would pull much better after it warmed up. honestly when warmed still feels like it aint 100% maybe 80% but i can drive it around at 70 mph. come on somebody gimme something or at least explain how tc can be crap cold then pull when warm

With that much suspended metal in the fluid your lucky the hting shifts at all. Usually the valves just hang and its done.

Maybe it has excessive leakage around one of the apply pistons or servos until the tranny warms up.

well i got good news, and bad news. found that the tranny itself is in a1 condition. the bad news is the one way sprag in the stator for the torque convertor took a crap. thats why when its cold the trans wont pull. after it runs in neutral and the metal swells then the stator kind of binds binds up allowing fluid momentum to be created so i get to clean valvebody again and pull trans once more and try and track down a decent affordable torque convertor

FYI, all the metal off the sprag has been run thru the cooler and trans drive train. I would be for tearing the trans down, washig it out, replacing selas and any bushings and thrust washers that look bad. Do NOT forget to thouroghly flush the cooler forward and backwards or you will be rebuilding it again.

Sorry for your luck, but, it amounts to you get what you pay for with cheaper parts.

make sure you also flush the cooler and drill the check ball if it is present

gonna check it over good and clean out but tranny only has 14 miles since full rebuild. no need to rebuild gonna replace some , and gonna flush the hell out of it.