On my way to 12v swapping
Okay so first let me start, I'm new, my first post, so if I'm in the wrong area let me know where I can go lol. Here's what I'm up to...
1979 dodge 1/2 ton 2wd swb 12v motor 47rh transmission So here's what I got to start with, and as you can see I'm going to try and do a conversion. Shouldn't be that hard I wouldn't think but beings 79 wasn't meant for cummins yet I may have issues but that's why I'm here. So my questions will start as: What engine mounts should I use? How should I mount the tranny? What springs should I use up front? What rear end would you all go with? (I'm planning on ford 9" for racing purposes) Any certain areas of the frame I should box in or "beef up" in some way. Thanks for any help guys |
Originally Posted by Kentucky_cummins
(Post 1100265)
Okay so first let me start, I'm new, my first post, so if I'm in the wrong area let me know where I can go lol. Here's what I'm up to...
1979 dodge 1/2 ton 2wd swb 12v motor 47rh transmission So here's what I got to start with, and as you can see I'm going to try and do a conversion. Shouldn't be that hard I wouldn't think but beings 79 wasn't meant for cummins yet I may have issues but that's why I'm here. So my questions will start as: What engine mounts should I use? How should I mount the tranny? What springs should I use up front? What rear end would you all go with? (I'm planning on ford 9" for racing purposes) Any certain areas of the frame I should box in or "beef up" in some way. Thanks for any help guys The center-link on the 2wd cummins trucks is dropped for oil pan clearance. You can make it work on the low-gvw suspension if you ream the knuckles larger. (TREs are all bigger) The cummins-rated coil springs are longer and won't fit with the low-gvw arms. Either cut the coils, or run van arms because they have a deeper pocket. For the frame, I'm leaving it as-is. The RC is short, and the body itself adds rigidity. I did have a spare steering box brace which I added. |
Well I'm glad the engine swap itself won't be a big deal. As far as springs, I took the stock springs out of my 2012 3/4 ton, so those will work if I cut some coils off? Any idea on a dodge rear end that will hold just as well or better for a drag truck? I was thinking of boxing the frame at least in some areas to help. I don't guess my body will hold it as well since mine is seperated
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No idea on 2012 coils. The '94-95ish 4wd coils I have are too large a diameter to fit a 1stgen 2wd.
The Dodge 8.75" or 9.25" should hold. Ford 9" or Dana 60 is always a good choice. Make sure you can get the fairly tall gearing you want for the cummins in the axle you choose. |
so if I was to swap arms to van arms which would I want so everything would fit? I would think the 8.75 would shatter that's what is in the 1/2 ton stock. Maybe a Dana 60 but I'd probably want to have it cut and I don't know how much that would be.
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I'm thinking of the same van arms guys use to lower their trucks...
How to lower the front of your 1972-1993 Dodge Pickup - DodgeTalk : Dodge Car Forums, Dodge Truck Forums and Ram Forums The 8.75 is very strong. Some say as strong as the 9". 5-lug Dana 60s are rare, 30-spline, and command a heavy price. I would look for an 80's F250 semi-floater (Dana 60 or 10.25"; both 8-lug 35 spline) .... redrill the bolt pattern, and roll your own brakes. Both usually come with 3.54 - 4.10 gears, but 3.31 exists, and even 3.07 for the 10.25". EDIT: My buddy is building a '73 Chev C10 with cummmins/nv4500. He went with a 9", 3.00 gears, and 35 spline shafts on a Yukon center section. |
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