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-   -   The fsm links are dead (https://www.dieselbombers.com/1st-generation-dodge-cummins-89-93/117956-fsm-links-dead.html)

nitrostamped 12-31-2013 06:25 PM

The fsm links are dead
 
Im new to my truck and to the forums so hello.

My truck is in very good shape with low milage and I would like to keep it running as well as the last owner.

I searched and all the links I tried where down. Could someone share a current link or pm me and ill link you my cloud storage so you can send me a larger file.

My truck is a 93 d250 5spd diesel (just to be clear) with no other known issues yet. The brake controller wiring looks a little bit mickey mouse so I might fix that next.

It seems like a blew a fuse as my brake lights and a few other things stopped working and I would like to start with a manual.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Little update fuse was out still same problem ive got an electronic issue schematics would be lots of help. Aftermarket tack is not working brake lights and abs light and brake light stays on.

dodgeramit10 12-31-2013 06:41 PM

you might not have the kind of problem you think....... this is just my guess since i havent seen your rig but, mine did the same thing your talking about. once i started looking around i found out it was my master cylinder. what happened was the front seal went bad and it wouldnt hold enough pressure to fully return the pedal..... making your break warning lights come on..... also, if you dont know (im not sure how well you know vehicles lol) but the break lights are controlled by a little button, when the pedal gets pressed the button releases... completes a circuit and the lights come on, when the pedal returns it pushes up against the button and the circuit is cut...

on top of my master cylinder being bad my button was out of adjustment and caused my break lights to stay on, you should be able to figure out how to fix these little issues... i hope i helped and i hope you can get it all fixed up:c:

nitrostamped 12-31-2013 09:00 PM

maybe some master issues
 
thank you for the idea.
I'll check my master and my brake switch.

when I changed the fuse the brake lights (tail lights)out the back started to work again for a few pumps with the car off then it popped the 20 amp fuse again.

to be more clear the brake light idiot light on the dash and abs light stay on while running but my brake tail lights stopped working. The aftermarket tach must have been powered though the the same system as its not working now.

I'm pretty good at repairing most car issues. Without a diagram it looks like i need to following the wiring and find the short. I'm guessing its related to the hitch wiring.

I have seen bad bulbs create a short but that is rare so I will check those.

I can't put my meter in line with the fuse and see how much current i'm pulling with the the pedal down to see how bad the short is. it is only rated for 10amps. I guess i'll remove both bulbs and check to see if that fixes it.

I have the cluster out now and part of my carpet so I can follow the wiring. It looks like he had two wires on a switch going to the fuel gauge i'm guessing it used to have a second tank.

immaculate vehicle messed up by someone who doesn't know how to work with a 12V system.

nitrostamped 01-03-2014 05:10 PM

Not a single member has a factory service manual in digital format they would be willing to share?

mysterync 01-03-2014 05:22 PM


Originally Posted by nitrostamped (Post 1042425)
Not a single member has a factory service manual in digital format they would be willing to share?

You could buy one? Alldata diy is also a good resource.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

kris0631 01-04-2014 09:19 AM

Did the problems all start at the same time? From what I've read 1st gens are notorious for the RWAL valve acting up... if you aren't concerned with keeping the RWAL you could try disconnecting the controller behind the glove box then with key on slowly stroke brake pedal to recenter proportioning valve...should clear your abs and brake warning light... as to the blowing fuse I agree with you on the short

nitrostamped 01-04-2014 06:43 PM

All the problems did start at the same time.

I found a wire that was hitting the frame. I have a voyager Tekonsha brake controler that im just hunting down its issues.

The brake and abs light are working (off )now my tach works again too I just had to rewire everthing that is aftermarket. The controller and tach where installed with wire nuts. For those that dont know wire nuts are for your home not anything that moves.

My only issue now is the back right stop / turn signal socket. It shows low voltage indicating another short for that side. The ground is fine.

I checked both flashers they are fine once I get that taken care of I should be golden.

I guess I will buy a manual I was holding out on the ~100 bucks for a digital copy. From experience this is my first dodge its harder to get info than any of the 26 other vehicle's ive had. You would see more running 250s if people worked out issues and fixed them. Most problems other vehicles have people fix factory issues and share it with other owners. If you hear the solutions are unplug this or that it sucked anyway. Why not find the weakpoint fix it the right way and share the knowledge.

My .02 rant.


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