Coasting on Deseleration and E Brake
 

Since I've owned my truck (1997 2500) when I let off the pedal I coast, this does not happen when I'm in 4 wheel low but in 2 wheel high it does, this is problematic for me as I go through brakes and am putting a stack of Mods on including and Exaust Brake.

So what do I have to do to correct this, Lock the Converter? Is that all I have to do? Is there something called a Coasting Clutch?

Adding a Cold Air Intake, 4" Exaust, E - Brake, Fuel Plate, adjusting the Smoke Screw per instructions I've read here, and adjusting the Star Wheel to gain proper hand off to Turbo Boost.

Thanks,
Nube Bomber :hellox:

First off, :hi:

To answer your question, yes, all you need to do is lockup the converter. They sell "modules" that control all that automatically, or you can install a simple switch.

Torque Converter Lock-up
 

Thanks for the welcome, having a lot of fun with the mods so far, looking at a Georend Transmission next.

The Exaust Brake really needs this lock out to be effective at all. I found this off another thread, seems like the right implimentation. Looked at one kit but was way to much money for what you get.

http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque%20...p%20Switch.pdf

Thought about adding a relay to disengage when you put the brakes on so as not to foget and stall the engine.

Yep, that's what you need right there. The relay isn't a bad idea either. I had help building mine, but it'll lock and unlock, and also has lights letting me know when I have it locked or unlocked. If you're interested, I can try to find the wiring diagram for it.

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Now that I think about it, the relay might not be a good idea if you're planning on using the exhaust brake and the service brake at the same time.

If you could find it that would be great. I have the wiring diagram for my truck and traced it all and it seems correct to me. I saw on another post a guy put a 33 Ohm resister inline on the leg he grounds and says he doesn't have to jumper the relay. Not sure how that effects the TCM. It must see the resistance and energize the relay. Was going to try it first to avoid jumping the relay. Jumping it does heat up that curcuit all the time. The relay takes referance voltage from the alternator and has a control point in the TCM which is where it gets it's ground.

Anyway I would love to see your implimentation, I want lights or some logic that I can build off the cruse control speed detector cause I really think an automatic should be just that, automatic. :humm:

I got this from a guy on TDR. He's also the one that built it up for me.

Attachment 40009

This is what he came up with for me:

Attachment 40010

I painted it to match my interior.

Very cool man, what a clean job. Lock, Un-Lock, and Normal Op. I'll let you know how it goes.

:tu:

Ok Bombers here are a few concerns that are not going my way.

Turbo is putting out 7 psi at the manifold full throttle under load, double checked this? Really? What's up with that!

33 Ohm resistor DOES not work on a 1997 torque convertor ground of the orange and black wire to the TCM by itself that I can see. Still working through this but early results suggest I go the hard wire direct ground of the Orange and Black wire and pull the relay, and jump the major contact there.

I know, "really peckerwood just do it", the engineer in me won't let me, so help me out Bombers, hardwire works, but is there a better way? If not, I'm in, just working through the pains of finding the right wire, which I have, grounding it directly knowing I could fry my TCM, not so much, and the jumper at the relay to leave power on the curcuit all day long? Not a huge deal but a concern.

Any suggestion very welcome.

Craig

Can't give much insight into the resistor unfortunately.

The boost problem could be a few different things. I would check your boots first off. The one on the bottom passenger side is known for wearing through. You could also check the intake gaskets. Your best bet would be to build a pressure tester (assuming you have a compressor).