Really tired of researching.. Maybe you guys can help..... I am maybe going twins whc1 14cm Non Wasted with a Bhtb3 26cm or a Good single...DD maybe pull 5 times a year. I would like 2 be around 5-600HP Just enough to pass up most enemies........
Already have Trans Goodies installed >> Triple Disc Valve Body Billet Input All servos and crap...LOL We pulled it Saturday way under weight and hell it didn't even smoke WTF
1st time so it was kinda more trial and error pull for us.
I have to check my fuel pressure again I think I'm low....The injectors are supposed to be 370s But who knows. I'm pulling the head and re ringing it soon...Yes there worn. 156000 idling miles..Construction truck ya know....

 

Fire rings don't hold up well to the many heat cycles you'll see in a truck driven on the street.

 

I did read that some wheres but is the difference between the 2. I have read and read am I just stupid or what..

 

O-ring crushes stock firering on the HG into the head to seal

Firering replaces the stock firering on the HG.

 

ive read dont use multi layer head gasget is the marine gasket copper ? and does it need any modification, its expensive thats for sure. pulled my head today .and looking for the best set up for trouble free 12k towing w/stock boost 40.i would prefer to stick w/ bolts i dont have a cherry picker.

 

You don't need a cherry picker to do studs, in fact, you have to thread the studs in with the head on. You wouldn't be able to get the head on in the truck if the studs go on first. Bolts should be just fine though for 40 psi. I would recommend getting new ones, as the old ones stretch.

 

Thank You monster12valve.. Happen to find this today trying to find out where to get the orings..LOL

Fire Ring Versus O-Ring

We frequently get asked the question, what is the difference between O-Ringing or Fire-Ringing my cylinder head.

Here is our best explanation:
O-Ringing:
O-Ringing is cutting or machining a narrow circular groove in your cylinder head surface, then tapping or pressing in a stainless steel wire. The stainless wire protrudes 8-12 thousandths from the surface of the head. When installed on the block, this wire lines up with the steel ring in the head gasket. After torquing your cylinder head down, this wire puts additional pressure on the steel ring, allowing for a better head-to-block combustion seal. These setups work very well for mild builds up to 750HP, with 70PSI or less boost.

Fire Ringing:
Fire ringing is cutting or machining a circular groove in your cylinder head OR block surface, or sometimes both surfaces. The groove is generally machined in the head in most street uses.
Once the groove is cut, a circular mild steel ring is set on the block in the grooves that were cut. In the case of having the head cut, we generally glue the rings to the head to ensure proper positioning with the cylinder when you install the cylinder head. With fire ringing, the stock steel fire ring in the Cummins gasket is removed and instead replaced with the mild steel "fire rings". This allows for a stronger seal than o-ringing. When the head is torqued, the steel rings will crush, allowing a strong seal.
This application will hold upwards of 100PSI of boost when using the correct fasteners. When you machine both the head and block, about half the recommended machining depth is used on the head and block, this way, the rings are set in both the head and the block with even less chance of them shifting when re-installing the head.

On most of our high performance competition builds, we only fire ring the block, then we use either 14mm head studs or H-11 or 625 heavy duty 12mm head studs.


Info Found at site below.
Fire Ring versus O Ring Cylinder Head Dodge Cummins Diesel

 

thanks daveo i should have thought of that.

 

so what if your running a 700hp beast with twins everyday oring or fire ring ?

 

My question is can you just get O rings? And where? Is the copper marine gasket the way to go?