12 Valve to 24 Valve Swap
 

I bought a 1996 2500 5 spd with no engine. A sled pulling motor is in the works. In the meantime I want to swap in a 24V that is from a 2002 Auto, what do i need to do to make this conversion work?

are you going to put a p-pump on it? or leave it electronic?

if you want to leave it as a VP electronic motor you will need EVERY wire and plug from under the hood, the computer, and most of the wiring under the dash, the speedo cluster, all transmission wiring, the steering column, and a bunch of dedication.....

Leave the 24 as is

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Really, that much of a pain? :argh: I do have all that, shouldnt need tranny wiring with a standard

well you might need a manual tranny harness from a 24v truck for all the neutral safety stuff and speedo signal.

and yes it will be that much of a pain. why do you see everyone putting 12v's in vehicles and rarely anyone installing 24v VP electronic motors.....

dont forget you also have to change the pistons and injector lines

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

along with the injectors

wait you dont still have to do that if your keeping the 24 valve together right? if he's transferring the 24 where the 12 was. that doesnt require piston and injector change does it?

he is planning on keeping it as a 24V VP-44, NOT convert it to a P-pump, that is why it will be a wiring and electrical nightmare if this is the first time he has attempted this.

Not a p-pump conversion, just wondering what it would take to run a 24V in a 1996

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Yup, I do have a donor truck, but I'm thinking twice about it, seems hardly worth the time. Might as well concentrate on the project the truck is intended for. Would be nice to get the 24V off my shop floor and not have another truck without a motor taking up space...

find you a 24v truck that has a blowed up motor you can get for cheap....

Ya i've explored that option, just havnt found anything for a decent price, prob gonna end up trying to sell the 24V. What does it take to get that thing running outside of a truck??

:argh: I though he was putting the 24v head on his 12v ... my bad

id do a p-pump swap it would prolly be cheaper then buying all the wiring i have a 180hp p pump that came out of my truck when i went to 13mm id give it to u for 600 bucks it worked fine just needed more fuel and i also have a brand new set of 150hp injectors that are made for a p pump 24v swap so u dont have to change the pistons.. they are made so the spray angle sprays in the piston bowl just like a factory injector would maybe this will help u but he is right its ALOT of work to put a 24v in a 12v shell cuz of all the wiring and 94 12v is also right if u dont have the injectors like i got and u wanna run a stock set with a p pump u are gunna need pistons and u will need lines for the swap i dont have them but i can get a nice set of stainles lines for u again hope it helps:c:

Thanks Ill keep in mind

if you have the donor truck swap out the dash and everything, then it will be the newer style. all you would have to do is pull the harness out of the donor and put it in the 96. the nice thing about cummins is that the harness is easily removed from the truck! i did it all on mine, don't know why it would be any harder to just put it in a new truck. plus while you have the dash out all the wiring would be a piece of cake, its all right there available! i say go for it, whats the worst that could happen?

What was your project?

i went from a manual to an auto, the wiring harness i had had 300k on it and i picked one up that only had 90k so i figured what the heck might as well swap it all out lol. i had to swap the clusters and everything for it to work too. wasn't bad and im no electrician! the only thing i have issues with is the cruise controll doesn't work and havn't had a chance to look into it yet. i realy don't see why there would be a huge issue with swapping it, just time and patience is all you need! with a little research and mechanical know how you can make it work easily. the harness is not as complicated as it seems, it is more of a mental issue than actually doing it, just have to jump in and tackle it.

P-pump conversion might not necessarily cheaper, if you have to find a pump, and timing cover and the list goes on :humm:

idk if it would be cheaper but prolly atleast come damn near close by the time u get the harness and all the other little b.s things and a ecu i have everything he needs to do it except the front cover and lines and the pump that i have isnt exactly stock :w2: but still borderlined streetable

why the :moon: would you want to put a 24 valve POS in it when you can have the P7100 12valve in it with it's "tuneabilty" for less :?:

Trade the 24v for a 12v :)

I've only spent money on a clutch, valvesprings and exhaust... cheapest horsepower EVER !!!

id buy the 24 valve without the pump, turbo, or frontcover actually id like just the head lol lmk if u wanna sell the head u could actually make money off the engine if u parted it out

you cant just put a 24 vavle head on a 12 valve, the pistons are different in case you didnt know :tu:

lol yes i do know

lol k most people think its just a throw on piece so i figured before someone goes through all the trouble to get that far might as well burst the bubble early on ya know :tu:

24v heads interchange? so you could build a 12v bottom end with the pump and everything with a set of 24v pistons and the head bolts right on? not that id ever do the swap, id rather just swap a dana 60 under a duramax if i had money, but im interested in knowing now lol

the common rail heads will bolt on to the older blocks with a little modifications to the water jackets. and yeah you can build a 12 valve bottom end and block but put 24 valve pistons in it because the bowls are different. but if you are going that rout its just as easy to get a 24 valve and put your p-pump on it anyways lol

Now ? why the **** would you want to do that ??

14bolt 11,5" are about 10x better after installing something better than the grenade locker...

i'd say they compare to Dana 80s !

I love my 80.... i've fried numerous 60 ! and no 14bolts... my G80 held up fine on my 6.0 gasser 4ex !:rocking:

im talking about swapping a dana 60 under the front, although i have snapped an axle shaft on mine theres really nothing bigger or better for a front diff. will NEVER have another 4x4 truck with ifs. reason i picked cummins is because its cheaper then duramamx, they can be found with a manual trans and they have a solid axle. the ultimate truck would be a d-max with a zf6 and a ford kingpin dana 60 front with a real 4 link setup... the day i have the money to do that will be the day i swap a 80s chevy cab and bed onto my current dodges frame, that would be a cool truck.

Ok just to save you time and money plump th 24v you'll love it and no you Don have to change pistons only timing cases and lines also if government got the engine why build a 12v put the money in the motor you got like put a common rail head on it a good Turbo a good ppump good 2v injectors and so on and you'll have more power then you need

U do not gain much power by using a p pump with a 24v head bang for your buck u can make alot more hp with less money unless u are over 800 hp put the money else were i just put my truck on the rollers yesterday and made 896rwhp and ran it last year with basicaly the same aet up but a 12v head and made 852 rwhp so what im saying is u can make 44hp alot of other much cheaper ways and the 24v head has a ton of port work done Also an the ols head had very little port work

Thats what Im thinkin too.