High egts really confused now
 

Hey guys I've asked about this before and now I'm really confused.
I'm running really high egts going Down the road and when I barly get in the throttle.
Everyone and myself was blaming this on my hx40 turbo I have on top. But my buddy just rebuilt a 12v and put it in his truck. He also threw a ht3b under his hx 40 . Same setup as mine. I preached to him for 2 weeks saying hes wasting his time and he's Gunna have the same problem I have. Now his motors running and it runs smooth and about 650-700* down the road. We have the same setup but his is running right and now I look dumb for saying it wouldn't work. So what could be my egt problem? I not ruling out the turbo. But his is working fine with it. Any help appreciated I want to figure this out

:w2: You sure your pyro is reading correct??

when you did the twins was there any other mods you did at the same time?

Ya I'd pull out your pyro an try a different one.

bigger tires and the lift?

Have you checked to make sure both turbos are moving freely? What are you running for a air filter?

Bhaf. and when I had my 35/40 hybrid up top it had good cruising egts. There bad when I put on the 40. So I'm blaming that. But my buddy's got the same setup and his is fine. His is lifted with bigger tire to. I switched to 410 gears and it never made a difference. Should I look into my pyro? It's out of Warrenty. Idk what to look for

i would ask your freind that runing the same turbos to us his pyro and gauge and just put it in and see what his is reading on your truck and like scott@alligator said make sure that your turbos a sping free you may have gotin a bad turbo good luck

Are you sure he has the same 40 and 3b?

exact same 40 and ht3b. same size hot pipe and all. both turbos are spinning freely. they have been high since i put them on. maby i can get his egt guarge if it isnt a big hassle for him.

What year engines and what transmissions? How is valve lash set?

If your issues started with the turbo, then it's likely the turbo.

How do the trucks perform? Is it the same? Do they both spool the same?

If it's not the gauge, would it be possible for you to use his turbo to test with?

:lol: TAKE IT TO A SHOP....back yard techs make the rest of our lives that much harder.

I think I should Definatly check valve lash. But do you really think it would raise 300* going down the road? My brother might let me use his pyro next week to try it. Chris at engineered diesel thinks my turbos are working against each other. They spool up rather quick.truck has crazy power and egts are not crazy up top. It's just high cruising down the road and barly accelerating. If I go up a small grade unloaded I can push 1200 easy. It would be impossible to pull a trailer.:choochoo:

what does he have thats different than you have?

He has 373s with a 38 inch tire.
I have 410s with a 37 inch tire.
Not so much compared to him, there high on my truck.
You think I should try different pyro, valve lash, and pump tuning before I get a new top turbo from E.D

Try the little things first.

i agree pyros are cheap

Cheaper than a turbo haha. I'll check boost leaks pyro valve lash and pump tuning.:w2:

If your egts are high down low, but aren't on the top end, that would seem to take your pyro out of the picture.:humm:

It still sounds like there's something funky with your turbo. Have you considered that there could be something wrong with the exhaust housing? Could be a bad casting partially obstructing the flow or something like that. Before I mount anything on my truck, I always take it apart and inspect it. The casting on my current top turbo had soo much slag around the wastegate openings, that the openings were only about 3/8". I also just had some very popular injectors that had orifices that varied by almost a 100%. It would have been very ugly if I had put them in my engine.

Just remember, not all identical parts are created equal:nope:

I agree. Chris from E.D really thinks it's my top turbo. He says the motor is air locked on both sides and the compounds are working against each other. Could a boost leak really have that much affect. I think o need chris to make me the right top turbo. But I was confused on how the other guys set up is working for him. I shouldn't say my egts are not high up top. I've never accually pushed my truck to wot. I let off at about 3/4 because I'm pushing 80psi of boost. That's why i never dynoed it because I won't be able to push it without blowing the head gasket. I don't even care about performance now. I just want low cruising egts and be able to tow and not worry about staring at my gauges anymore

:pca1: :pca1: :pca1:

Pre-turbo Exhaust leaks can also cause super heated EGT's

80lbs at 3/4 throttle:nshock::nshock::nshock: That's too much!!! Is that reading from the intake manifold? Do you have a drive pressure gauge?

Where do you have that top turbo wastegated??? If it's set too high, it will create a lot of back pressure plus, it won't let the lower turbo spool the way it should. This could also give you the illusion of quick spooling, but since the air is mostly coming from the top turbo, it would be hot air and lead to high egts. And, the lower turbo would really be straining to feed it until it spools good. In essence, the two turbos would be fighting each other for air. Make sure the top one is 30psi or less, 26 -28 would probably be better, you really want that lower turbo to spool ASAP.

No doubt, I didnt even see that. I bet the drive pressures are through the roof. If your worried about your headgasket your not doing much to prevent a failure. your system if obviously not running efficiently. You can make 800RWHP on 50lbs of boost or less with a correctly working system. At this point your just generating hot air like an air compressor. Way out of the turbo map.

That's why I think I need a new top turbo, so everythingflows right and it's working efficiently. The top turbo is wastegated at around 25psi. What do you guys suggest doing. How would I check for pre turbo exhaust leaks? I'm Gunna check boost leaks and valve lash and such

You'll see black around the manifold (basicly anywhere before the turbo that it's leaking will be black)
I would think that the top charger has a problem or there's a piping problem. I would doubt you could reach 80lbs with a pre turbo leak or boost leak.
At this point I'm with everyone else, It's a charger issue. Sorry but I didnt read what chargers you were running or where you got them. It seems like you might have a mechanical restriction (housing or wheel sizes)

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Duh lol have you checked your timing?

I checked it and set it to 18, but when I bought my truck it was stock. And when o initially checked timing it told me it was at 16. And I know I did it right I have the kit and everything. Many I should break the gear loose and advance it a tad. I think Ita a charger Problem. I was running a hx35/40 hybrid with awesome results. Only thing I changed was I put on an hx40 and remade the hot pipe. And te hotpipes alot better made than my first one so im ruling that out. I think it's the 40 Maby I got a leman or something. I'm Gunna do the free simple things before I buy a turbo

The free ones are always good to check first :tu:

As long as you are close, I don't think a couple of degrees of timing either way will make a huge difference in egts.

How come you switched from the hybrid, I thought they were better than the 40s? If all of the problems started with the switch, then I wouldn't spend much time checking out other stuff until you rule out that turbo. Pull it off and take a good look at it, it really sounds like a bad exhaust housing casting. It might just be something you can clean up with a Dremel. I'm running one of the D-techs as my top turbo. It didn't have the best exhaust housing casting, and it was kinda restrictive to begin with. But after porting the turbo flange, exhaust manifold and wastegate, it works great!

I'm still kinda amazed that you can get 80psi with your setup and problems. Are you sure you're wastegated at 25psi, to me your symptoms sound exactly like a wastegate issue. Mabe something is binding under load???? Maybe it needs a little porting???

That big charger moves some Air. I think it's an 87mm comp wheel. Maby there is a physical restriction. I got rid of my hybrid because te 12cm housing was way to restrictive up top. Knowing what I know now. I would have severly modified the waste gate, and or rigged up an external gate to relieve some drive pressure. Plus I got an offer on it I couldn't refuse. If I get a new turbo from e.d I'm definaly porting the housing and my exhaust manifold. Maby even exhaust ports on the head. All I didn't was change top turbo and hot pipe. And now I have thesehigh egts. And this hotpipe is a lot beter than my last one so I know that's no issue

I know this is old but maybe this will help. I put a 97 12V in my Nissan Titan and was running 3.73's wth 41" tires and I was doing like 850* running down the road. I have changed out the gears to 4.56 which is the correct ratio and EGT's dropped to 600ish running down the road now! if it's not geared right it will be like pulling around a trailer all the time. I had all the mods. in my sig. when I did the cummins swap, so the only change was the gear ghange to get the reduced EGT's. Hope this helps!

That might help, but the deal is before he swapped the 35/40 hybrid for the Super 40, EGT's were not a problem, so there is something else causing it to run hot also.

did you put bigger injectors in or anything fuel related

No, I followed this for a while, and as far as I know, the turbo swap was the only thing that changed, otherwise the problem would have been more apparent.