How much timing is safe for a dd
 

Getting ready for timing and im not sure how much is safe-it still is my dd but never tow and very rarely haul anything . thanks guys

I have 16* in mine with no ill effects

big diffrence at 16*?

Pro:runs smoother lil better top end lower egts better fuel milage
Con:alil harder to start when its cold but it does and will

Mine breaks up a bit after 3200 unless its got a good load on it. i was hoping bumping the timing will help clear it up up top.

It will help and I'm hoping you have HD valve springs as well... didnt see them listed :D

yes i do. i forgot tolist them lol

i ran 16.5 on my dd and i pull a 5th dump bed alot and drive the piss out of it, egts where around *900 towing 9k and getting up to speed pretty good but my probe was post turbo, after this rebuild im going to be at 18* with 4ks and the probe in the manifold, so we will see how it goes

Thanks for the input. Im thinking of going 17* and see where my numbers are and go from there.

Don't go more than 17 without head studs, heck with that turbo you probably need them if its even lighting.

I ran 19 on my truck before the rebuild with 370's. Pattern on the pistons actually looked really good. On the new pistons I am at 22* right now. No side effects what so ever.

back in the day when a 12v was brought to a dealer running poor, standard thing to do was to bump the timing up to 16*. I would suggest torquing down the stock head bolts alittle tighter, and I would bump it up to about 18* and not even think twice. 2 or 3 years ago on my puller I ran stock head gasket and bolts, that I torqued up, in the 2.6 class running over 50 psi and 21.5* timing. Biggest thing is to let the truck warm up before you get on it.

i did 28° for a wile then bumped it to 32°, back to 28° now

only thing i noticed was i could hear timming rattle under 2K driving down the freeway

I've run 17* pretty hard with retorqued bolts with no problems yet. I'm not betting on it holding up forever though.

check your fuel pressure to turn higher rpm with that pump fuel pressure is your friend. When my 94 was my dd with the 175 p pump stock head bolts and a sliver bullet I ran 22.5*

if your running stock pistons anything over 25* is spraying out of the bowl, and making things worse not better.

im gonna run 22* maybe more depends on wat the shop says

all depends on how you drive

thanks for the input guys. I already torqued the stockers down to 120 im not planning on it staying together forever but so far so good. making 45 psi with the hx 40. i will check the pressure for the stuble up high too. So my next ? with all that timing, like around 20* do they still start when its cold? im all the way north in jersey its like 5* out rite now

if you keep the grid heater in it will start fine

so is 22* ok? and what is the tq on the heads?

you can get 130+ on the stockers pretty easy, anything past there they start to stretch, i found about 133 to be the magic number

could be or it could not be. if you go that high just understand that your chances of blowing a HG are higher than at 16*

i wouldnt recommend anything over 17 on stock head bolts

why would you want 22 degrees anyways unless you are making big power its not needed
im only runnin 19 on my truck and putting down 550 with what is in my sig and that is plenty

because everyone thinks the more timing they run, the more power they will make but noone understands the concept of it.

idk its a truck im looking at buying has 22* and its got a like 200hp fuel plate and it think thats it for fuel but theres a air dog and cai 4in dp and new clutch and flywheel

i ran 22.5* because that is where my truck made the most power, ran the best, and got the best mpg.

I'm sure your also aware that timing of the pump is not always the timing after the injector?

Dave would you care to elaborate on that a little? I kinda get the idea of it but would like to know more.

It doesnt matter what the pump is timed at, what spray pattern the injectors have, or what piston bowl you are running, as long as your still spraying in the bowl is what matters, most people with stock pistons, run way to high of timing, im meaning 25*+, your 22.5* is fine because it still sprays inside the bowl.

injector line size, pop pressure, dv holders, plungers ect could change your timing as well. What I'm saying is just cuz your pump is timed at 20* or whatever does not always mean your injecting fuel at 20* BTDC.

very much so dave
i am just sayin that high timing is not needed to make big power

on the low end yes but if you want good power up top you need timing ... and air:c:

Thats what im shooting for- top end and more wind. I just need it to behave still on the street for now.

I ran 19.1 degrees for about 2months then knocked her up to 25degrees for bout 5months and i still had the stock headgasket and stock headbolts.