Kdp
 

Alright mine was not tabbed. I've got to drive over to a mans house now and beat the $#!+ outta him cuz he bout cost me my motor... Anyways, it didn't hurt anything. ( except the dowel pin) it was layin in my timing cover... Do I need it? Or I can I throw it away? Apparently it's been out for awhile n I haven't noticed any changes... I'm glad my front seal went out so I caught this before it did get bad

Kdp
 

Also what performance mods can I knock out while I've got it torn down to this point?

you could do your timing if youve got access to the tools

Kdp
 

Do you know a link that'll tell me everything I'll need? Thanks

Here is a link for you:

Timing in 40 minutes (12 valve, 2nd gen engine) - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

Kdp
 

Hey man I appreciate it!

No problem :tu:

imo I would still try to put the dowel pin in. There is alot of slop in the bolt holes of the rear case, might move around and cause some unwanted rubbing. While your at it loc tite all the bolts in the case that you can get to. As for the timing, i would go with the one hrd posted. I did the 5 hour cuss fest one and plan to recheck using that method when the weather gets alittle nicer or when a buddy can get his truck out of my shop.

you got lucky... lol

Kdp
 

I got real lucky... I pulled the timing cover n it hit the ground... I think my exact words were WTF... It chewed up the pin but after bout an hour of inspecting everything I don't think it hurt anything else... I was aggravated bout the front seal but not anymore!!!

can you tell if you have the update without taking truck upart? i have 1 97 and 2 2001s and dont know if the kdp has been changed

Kdp
 

I wish, but no I don't think so. It's all behind the timing cover. It's not really replacing anything either... It's more a preventative maintenance to prevent extreme mutilation of your internals...

My dam kdp fell out and broke the case 2 days ago, almost got it completely apart but can't get the cam gear off

I think mine came out 3 days ago and went out through gear housing......massive oil leak...

Thats the same as what mine did, I was mad but then when I realized what it was I figured I was lucky

I just came in from the shop to get some lunch. Working on the same project...:ouch: With everything I have read here and the Cummins mechs I has spoke with, pull the whole cam and not just the gear.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Here some inspiration for anybody that has yet to tab thier KDP.....:argh:

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...lick1/kdp2.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f292/vcblick1/kdp.jpg

Yup cam has to come out to replace the timing case.

Theres some good videos on Youtube showing the fix.


Check out the first few vids for sure:



http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...dp+repair&aq=f

Duct tape it:w2::w2::w2:

I'm working on my KDP case swap again this weekend. Only have a few hours each week to pick at it. Luckily it's indoors as the high today is about 6 degrees. Having read a ton of posts here and watched the videos has helped, but I still have a few questions. First of which is, does the injector pump have to come off to get the case off..? It would appear that if you were to pull the gear, the pump could stay in place..? Second, if the pump stays in place could you make alignment marks on the gear, shaft, pump, block, etc. and get away with not having to time the engine..? Thanks.

as long as u dont spin the pump shaft or turn the crank put the crank and cam timing marks together and kinda bump it back and forth so theres no gear pressure on it for when u pull injection pump gear and no the injection pump does not need to come off. It doesnt matter what position u put the injection pump gear back on i wouldnt bother marking them either it takes a lota force to roll over tht injection pump, and as far as tht kdp i weld my front holes shut, i bought a tab like every1 else torqued everything and the material they use is to hard and causes it not to torque right or stay tight even with red lock tight, so the last 3 i hve done i took a tig welder and welded the front hole shut... :c:

Thanks for the quick reply. That should save me a bit of time in the process. None of it has been difficult as of yet, just time consuming. I'm sure I would have been in there sooner or later for gaskets.....:tu:

Kdp
 

And another thing before you go to pull the camshaft your gunna have to go out and get some 1/2in wood dowls and cut them the length of your push rods. Cut you twelve of them and round each end of with sandpaprer or I used a table grinder, it's alot faster. Then you put your wood dowls in where your push rods go and tap them into the top of your lifters. After you have all 12 of them in pull them up until the lifter bottoms out and tie the wood dowls up. After you do that your camshaft should come out. MAke damn sure you tapped in the wood dowls into the top of the lifters good cause if one of them lifters come off when the cam is out your gunna have he'll getting it back


Brandon

Yep good point and if the engine is ever outa the truck or tappet cover off just zip tie each 2 tappets together but wooden dowels work the best for when engine is in truck after uve pulled all the pushrods keep them in order, also when reassembly lube the hell outa that cam with white grease assembly lube and b careful also depending on miles on cam inspect it for flaking off the lobes most are junk after around 150-200k, and torque yur injection pump gear nut while som1 holds baring tool to 150-155ftlbs (dont go any more!!!!!!) with snap on torque wrench seen friends break at 157 was the last recalled torque on didgital torque wrench, as long as theres no oil around the threads or shaft itll hold use brake clean or either eavorates and is not oil based, good luck!! :c:

Thanks for the input. I have to run to the hardware store laterfor those parts. Was also going to get a piece of PVC to slide in in place of the cam "just in case". I saw some where something simliar they used when replacing the actual tappets and fishing them out of the camshaft opening. I think I have everything set knowledge wise thanks to you guys and ths site. Only thing left to figure will be resetting the valves, ie feeler gauges? torque? That will be another day....:pca1:

Kdp
 

It's easy setting valves


Brandon

Yea pvc is a good safety feature, .010 on intake valves, .020 on exhaust valves with feeler gauge i had a machinist buddy of mine make me 2 of each outa stainless since i do so many of them, 18ft lbs on front cover bolt torque if i remember right around tht for cam retainer as well usually torqued it a smidge higher, if u pulled rocker arms the rocker bolts are 18 ft lb as well except for head bolts retorqued my dads to 110ft lbs and he has been spiking 37 lbs of boost with it been running 2.5 years now :tu:

Getting ready to work on this project again Saturday morning. One more quick question if you don't mind. I am fairly certain of the answer already, but does the lift pump have to come off or can you "work around it". The engine is still in the truck, and I am using wooden dowels through the head. Thanks.

Just finished getting the timing case off the truck..:jump: Lots of good information on this site to get the job done. A service manual is also a handy tool to have as well. Hopefully I can get my case welded up Monday and start putting it all back together. :c:

instead of buying the kit can you just mod a washer to tab it?

Yes you can mod a washer, or stake the case to keep it in. There is a thread here where the OP uses a bent piece of coat hanger to get the job done. There is not a lot of momentum or force behind the pin, so it shouldn't take a whole lot to keep it in place. Great information on this site.