12 valve won't start
 

So I have been checking forums and all I can find is this shut off solenoid which maybe my issue but here's my story I have a 94 12 valve with a gutted afc no plate I live in Missouri the temp was 12 degrees out this morning and my truck started fine with the normal pressing of the gas and letting the grid warm up then going back inside letting it warm up then I heard it die went back out to start it again and it just cranked with no sign of wanting to start any help would be greatly appreciated

sounds like it gelled up.

What do I do if it gelled

pull the fuel filter to see if the fuel gelled up, replace it and you may need to clean out the fuel line.

What is the best way you suggest to clean out the fuel lines

Everytime it gets below 35 degrees i plug my truck in over night and really makes a difference when cranking in the morning

My thing is have plugged it in and haven't noticed any change with it

Then your heater element is probaly bad.

dont know about these dodges but i used to use a propane torch on the lines if i needed it to start fast. if i had some time i would just put a heat lamp under the hood. to keep it from freezing i would put a little kerosene in my fuel in the winter

x2 with 94 12 valve. crack ur number one injector line and crank it a little bit and see if any fuel comes out. crank it for about 10 seconds tops. id crack all them at one time each get any air out at least. next if no fuel comes out then back up. i run a cup of howes lubricator in my truck every fill up its conditioner and anti gel. may want to invest in some. but crackin ur injector lines and crankin the motor over is where i would start do one at a time. i always go 1 then 3 then 2 then 4 then 5 i never go back to six. check ur fuel filter prob wont hurt to go ahead and change it imo.

hell get a can of starting fluid to fire it up but be carefull you don't over do it cause your truck could do a run away and unless its a manual transmission where u can dump the clutch and kill it you could blow the motor. lol

dont do that u may want to try wat i told u if that dont work and u think u wanna try to try sprayin somethin use wd40 or get a rag wet with gas and put over the filter

you can also put sum additive in your fuel tank if it is gelled up so it wont happen again in the future.

get howes

idk it dont get cold enough down here for all that. I plug mine in at night and it fires right up in the morning like its a summer day

8 degrees here the other morning and mine wasn't plugged in, so just for shits and giggles I tried it. Cycled the grid heaters twice and it fired right up. No oil pressure though untill I brought the rpm's up a little:scare2:, I guess 15w40 is a little thick for those temps.:c:

??????? i probably wouldn't do that.

the rag over the filter?

whats so horrible about ether? some 3.9 and 5.9 applications had ether injectors installed from the factory. just dont spray it on a hot grid heater. pull the little wires off the heater solenoids on the fender so they dont come on. if ur paranoid about a runaway problem take the intercooler pipe connector off at the intake so the ether will go right in and not get built up in the intercooler and then stir up any oil that may be laying in there. definitely dont spray any liquid like wd40 in the turbo. that will make it run away cause it wont even make it to the engine until its running and then will come all at once when the rpm is high enough.

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btw, if u wanna see proof of what happens when u put non vaporizing things like wd40 in the turbo, come to newburg and ill show you a customers 24 valve i have torn down right now cause he put liquid in the turbo and it ran away after it started and messed up the cam and crank gears.

a lot of old equipment had starting fluid cans in the dash. you pushed a button to start them.

its not good to run either in a diesel engine thats all im sayin

If used right starting fluid will not harm a diesel engine. As stated DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID WITH GRID HEATERS OR GLOW PLUGS

if you look at your old tractor that had a ether sprayer on it it probably wont have glow plugs or a intake heater. it probably also has precombustion chambers in the head

:tu: my john deere model 70 and 4020!!! my model a is gas

"If used right starting fluid will not harm a diesel engine. As stated DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID WITH GRID HEATERS OR GLOW PLUGS"
like i said before, unplug the heater relays so the heaters cant come on.

"if you look at your old tractor that had a ether sprayer on it it probably wont have glow plugs or a intake heater. it probably also has precombustion chambers in the head"
no 5.9 cummins have pre chambers and yet in some applications still have ether injectors from the factory. and its not just old tractors, there is equipment that is current production that has ether start aid as an option
there is no reason not to use ether when it is necessary as long as it is used properly

Its the people that think you have to spray half that can in there all it need is a light mist, for a second over the filter.

It was 50F here in Missouri yesterday so I am guessing the OP has the issue fixed. If not I can come help you out..

:c: wats up haden! :hi:

Yes, I made it lol. This is a great forum from what I can tell. I always thought it was just another cumminsforum but its a lot different, that place sucks.

i love it here i barely get on cumminsforum im still a newbie there lol but there for sale section is great but back to the thread wat all have u tried since it happened

Here is some quick fixes for people with gelled diesels ive been all over the country traveling on pipelines and running diesel trucks, from mountains to the cold tundras i dont plug my 12 valve in unless its below about 10deg., but if i know ill be in a cold place for awhile around 0deg. i retard my timing close to factory to help starting, also if it gells on u dump methanol in the fuel tank not the fuel filter incase yur fuel supply line gelled, methanol is thinner than diesel and will go straight to bottom, another thing is spraying either in a soda bottle until u get some liquid in it and dumping it into the fuel filter and screwing it back on....btw i live in Mo. to but im hardly here usually somewheres colder

HOWES IS THE WAY TO GO WORK AT TRUCK COUMP. DID SOME TESTING FOUND THAT HOWES HELP MPG AND NEVER GELLED :choochoo:

so it is warmer now fuel not gelled i was told my lift pump was bad so i replaced it and still doing the same thing i have primed and primed and tried to crack the injector lines and got nothing out of them not even a drop any help would be greatly appreciated

:humm: id love to work on that truck for u

finally got something out of her today it starts but it is really rough and smokes like crazy then dies im not sure why but if i pressurize the tank and pump the primer it will fire right up and run for about a minute and die im starting to pull my hair out

With the grid heater functioning you'll cause the intake manifold to explode in your face causing serious injuries. These trucks shouldnt need ANY starting fluids if the fuel system is working correctly. Anyone that tells you that ether or starting fluids are a good idea is a dummy (just to make this clear, if they dont mention grid heaters their dummies) Modern diesels should only see ether in a controlled diagnoses enviroment by a trained tech. If it wont start, Bleed the fuel system, verify fuel pressure and flow and then think about spraying it.

Unless of course we're talking low compression pullers or race trucks.


Another thought about this thread has anyone looked at the diesel blends for the US? If you look at the numbers you'll see that it rarely get's cold enough in most areas to gel or wax. A good additive would completely eliminate the concern of gelling. We see more waxing that stops up fuel filters in this area.

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Verify Lift pump pressure and flow. It would be best to delete the fuel heater, install a new rubber loop line to the pump and verify the rubber and steel line is in good shape. If you pressurize and see no leaks the lines are fine. The fuel heat can allow enough air to enter that the truck wont ever prime. Sounds like the lift pumps bad. 30 minute pie job!

just put a new lift pump in so im positive there is air in the system but i guess it just takes forever to get it out i get a air bubble here and there when i crack the lines

New lift pump didn't fix the problem?

If not and you are getting fuel to the injectors, I would check the pump timing it may have slipped and would cause the problems you mentioned.

Also get rid of the fuel heater and replace the lift pump to fuel heater line, I've got rid of mine last fall and the truck starts and runs perfect in -40c (-22f)

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Just pull the plug up on the water separator and see if fuel comes out if not then u know u have a problem

It will come out of the separator no problem but it starts runs fine then just dives pump the hell out it and is starts up and runs again could this possibly be air in the lines still I have bled them but I thought it can self bleed the rest out