Thank you!


Yes, GreaseCar has a control module in the cab, as shown here:
Attachment 44248

It controls the supply solenoid. That solenoid has 2 inputs (Diesel tank via fuel heater and fuel filter, & WVO tank, via it's own, heated fuel filter) and 1 output (to lift pump). There is a 'Flush' mode, that flushes the system with Diesel for (I have it set for) 30 seconds. That way the lines are cleared.

I have NOT run WVO since the lift pump change.

Sorry in advance for the crappy quality, they were just taken with my junk cell phone...

Dodge OEM setup:
Attachment 44249

GreaseCar setup (My setup)
Attachment 44250

Actual photo of the pump area:
Attachment 44251
Another:
Attachment 44252

I know it looks kinda crazy. I did not install it, and am not very proud of the workmanship, and plan on changing it a little, but hey, it works. (Well- wait... why is this thread here if it "works?!!")


So far, I've checked the following:
-Connections at fuel tank
-Fuel lines from tank to engine bay
-All of my rubber lines associated with the pump/solenoid assy
-Fuel Filter is changed 100 miles ago
-Lift pump 2k ago (never run WVO through it
-Fuel heater pre-filter assy was cleaned, heater removed

Here's what I'm planning to check:
-fuel filter inlet banjo bolt gasket. They had to remove the banjo and attach a Tee (as you can see in the WVO diagram above) and I noticed the gasket has some cracking around it. (no fuel seepage, but that's on the suction side of the pump, so it probably wouldn't show, right? It's just potentially letting air into the lines...)
-do some sort of fluid/pressure check of the lift pump. I know it's new, but who knows, maybe it's a Lemon? any tips on this? or just do it 'per the manual'?
-Fuel tank fuel filter like v8440 pointed out
-streamlining the whacko fuel line situation near the pump and ruling out the rubber hoses/brass barb fitting connections as leaks.


Thanks for all the advice. This is driving me nuts! :dang:
-Andrew

maybe the wvo is/has knocked some crud loose and your injector(s) are slightly clogged? but you have a fairly new (2000 mikes) lift pump, idk. maybe time to switch to an aftermarket fuel system like the fass or airdog or make your own. all your symptoms seem to be pump related. i do know that starving the inj. pump is a quick way to kill it. see if you can rig up a temporary pump system with an electric pump bypassing the lift pump and have the fuel pressure at 16-20 psi? and see if that allieves your symptoms. i'd go with v8840's filter cleanin before anything tho. you could have possibly gotten another bum pump too.

just reread the last part of your last post aboot the banjo bolt and air in the system i dont think would cause you to lose pressure like your saying, it should only cause stuttering symptoms, correct?

Forgive me if I missed it, but where did you get the new LP? I know working at napa probably 30% of FPs we sold came back after install not working at all.

Lift pump was from Shiver Diesel, in Tallahassee, Fl. Pretty well known/respected company.

Upon more research, it looks like Holley Black pumps, or equiv., are a decent pump, and can be had relatively cheaply, around $100 or so... So I may try that. Question is: Should I run the pump inline, pre-lift pump, or just bypass the lift pump all together?

I just thought of something else easy to check: Start the truck, and make sure the shutoff solenoid on the side of the injection pump is pulling the fuel shutoff lever all the way up. If it has gotten weak and is only partially opening it, that would be a dumbass way to have your fuel supply throttled back. You must start the truck first-merely turning the key to the on position will NOT do the trick.

ooo... Good call, easy check/replacement. Let me check that out after work this morning.

x2. I had that WTF problem more than once using a choke cable. :argh:

if you do decide to bypass it altogether, diesel power did the exact mod using a holley pump on their 89' dodge theyre trickin out. make sure its diesel compatable too, if need be.

Had a friend of mine tell me today that it's also possible that the fuel pressure return spring or whatever it's called could be gummed up. In short, he said it's accessible by taking the banjo fitting out and you can see the spring and can clean it out. Also that it is possible to tighten the spring a click or so and get a little more fuel pressure out of the system. What do you guys know about that?

Oh, the overflow valve. I guess that's possible, though I doubt that would cause problems only at high rpm and load. I've never personally messed with mine, but I understand it's not hard to work on. That would be an easy one to find out more on with a search.