loosing power while towing
 

i recently purchased a 1997 dodge 3500 4x4 cummins turbo 12 valve automatic the first two days i drove it had no problems then i was hauling my two horse trailer and when trying to climb a small incline the truck actually bogged down and died did this three times before i got it home the next day had the trailer unhooked from it didnt seem to have any trouble pulling the same inclines can anyone tell me what may be goin on

Could be your overflow valve, but most likely the lift pump.

I second the lift pump :tu:

thanks i will check that first then is there anyway to test if either is bad before i replace them

check the pressure coming out of the lift pump should be above 25 psi someone correct me if im wrong

I'd replace the fuel filter first. Then, I'd drop the little plastic mesh screen off the bottom of the fuel heater near the lift pump and clean it. I seem to recall that the housing the mesh is in is removed with a 17mm socket on an extension from below.

It's also possible that there is a restriction somewhere before the lift pump. That would cause the lift pump to fail the pressure test under heavy load even if the pump was not the problem, as the pump would not be receiving enough fuel to develop normal output pressure. I went through total hell with exactly the same problem on my '98 12v. You'll never guess what it was...there was a 4th fuel filter in the system. I don't know if your truck has it or not, but it was INSIDE the pickup unit in the tank. NOT the little mesh screen on the bottom of the pickup, but actually inside it. It was clogged beyond belief. I simply took it out and threw it away. I can't remember whether I had to extend a hose to make up for the loss of the filter or not, but I do remember that getting rid of it was easy. It just sucked having to drop the tank to get to it. At the time, nobody on the internet seemed to know about this filter. I posted pictures of it (can't remember which forum) and a lot of people were surprised. I never had another fuel starvation problem again.

thank for that info i will check all that first dropping the tank to me right now sounds better than replacing a $200 lift pump but will start with the filter and fuel heater

changed fuel filter seemed to take care of the issue took it down the road 70mph hooked up 5,000lb trailer took it down the road got up to 60mph and up steep hill at 40 mph no issues get home unhook trailer start to take off on level ground and truck tires to bog down and die but i let off throttle and it stayed running im very puzzled is there any other problem that someone might know of before i change the lift pump

you can test your fuel pressure. but if you don't want too just replace the lift pump. its not to pricey and its easy to install.

Testing your fuel pressure would def. go a long way in figuring out what your problem is. You could try diagnosing the overflow valve. Here is a good resource:

Ram Diesel Injector Pump Problems

:c:

If you replace the lift pump and the overflow valve was the problem you will have wasted your time and money. I'd try temporarily clamping off the return hose from the injection pump while watching the fuel pressure as described by others. If the pressure is low with the hose NOT clamped and then jumps way up into the acceptable range when you clamp it, the overflow valve is the problem. If not, it's either the lift pump or a restriction somewhere before the lift pump.

You definitely have a fuel issue. Allot of good info on this thread. If none of those work. look for fuel flow problems, starting with the tank. I had a sending unit issue just like that.

make sure to check for shorts

I had to replace my mechanical pump about 2 years ago (...but mine was leaking diesel). I don't really remember how much I paid, but I'm fairly sure it was less than 100 bucks and it was from this online site. It's listed for $122, currently ...free shipping, though.

Airtex Fuel Pump Direct OE replacement

This forum has a section for finding parts, you can try there for better prices.
Price Quote - Request A Price - Diesel Bombers

i noticed the other night while lettin my truck idle that the voltage meter in dash would drop in and out without changin the rpms and the guy thats breaking our horse told me he had similar issue and he replaced his trans and it still did it then he found out it was his pcm anyone else think thats the issue

Yes, I have an idea. That's your grid heater. It's absolutely normal. Read your owner's manual and it will explain all of this. Every year, at about this time, it starts getting cold. That's when the posts start about the "weird voltage fluctuations".

If you know someone who actually replaced their TRANSMISSION over this, you may well know the person who wasted the most money ever because of the grid heater. This is somewhat like someone hearing the "snap snap" sound the sparker makes in a gas stove, panicking, and having the sewer pipe in their neighbor's front yard replaced. Completely unrelated AND expensive.

well he didnt change his trans due to the voltage drop he had the other issue im having with my truck boggin down and dying but i found out later his truck wasnt diesel so that dont help me anyway but thanks for the info about the grid heater

My dads truck done that the hose was busted off of the afc

i new to diesels can you let me know what the afc is

This is the afc


the little t ferll on the back of it is what brokehttp://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_po.../afc_top16.jpg

thanks i'll have to check on that

No problem

The two I've owned '91 Cummins and my current '94 Cummins would both do that in cold weather and neither one was an automatic. The voltage gauge would only do that until the engine heated up, then it was rock steady. My Dad's '96 does the same thing.

has anyone elses battery terminals on the passenger side rubbed through the insulation on the under side of the hood and is this gonnacause any grounding or shorting issues

The insulation hangs that low on yours? Guess I don't have any on my hood. I would snap the insulation up so it doesn't touch. It it not going to short since the insulation is not conductive but if it is tearing into it then it will probably tear it apart sooner or later unless you do something about it.

well the post on the battery have worn through it and i think it may be coming in contact with the hood im trying toget some rubber terminal boots to cover them so i dont have to worry about the contact just wondering if it is touching if it's causing any issues

The hood should be a couple inches away and not be close to touching it. I wouldn't worry about it shorting, if it is THAT close then, then danggg.

is there anyway to test the overflow valve besides installing a fuel pressure gauge and clamping the return line

Not really.

replaced the lift pump thought that took care of the problem got in it yesterday pulled it out of shop multiple times no issues out of the 2 dozen times i put it in park let it idle and then put back into drive it bogged out and died once i lost here anyone have any suggestions or have had the same problem the idle in gear is around 900-1000 rpm as far as i know the engine is all stock

I've heard of people getting bad lifts pumps that have similar problems. I think your best bet is to find out what your fuel pressure is at.

Install a f/p gauge. Its cheap, easy and will provide a lifetime of information regarding fueling issues.

did you check the screen inside the fuel bowl on the lift pump yet. they are bad about clogging up.

not yet but im planning on workin on it this week and gonna check on that while im putting a new overflow valve and fuel pressure guage

i installed fuel pressure guage and put in a new overflow valve as well truck is gettin between 25-28 psi in park truck idles around 1,000-1200rpm truck still boggs outand dies randomly when put into drive and you try to take off sometimes it does it sometimes it dont i havent checked the fuel heater bowl yet and havent done anything with the fuel tank anyone got any ideas

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took the fuel heater bowl off to cleanthe screen off it had sludge like substance in around the base of the screen and along the sides can someone let me know if thats the fuel gelling or something else and do i need to replace any lines i know im gonna have to drop the fuel tank and check the sending unit in the tank and see what might be in it

ok heres the update replaced fuel filter replaced lift pump cleaned screen in fuel heater bowl replaced screen on the bottom of sending unit drained and cleaned the inside of the tank also strained the diesel before putting it back in getting almost 30psi on the fuel pressure guage but still stalls after shifting from park to drive but doesnt do it everytime i did not however replace sending unit because it does run and drive 95% of the time i start it but now after i put it all back together my fuel guage isnt working and the fuel light stays on any help would be great