won't start this morning
 

I finally drove my truck last night after spending the last month working on it, It seemed to run really good and had lots of power. After I drove it around town for 20mins I pulled it into my shop, and this morning it won't start, It kind of fires occasionally but won't start up.

My first thought is that the timing slipped, but I don't know how that could of happened. I cleaned the pump shaft really well and when I had to pull the gear off again (because I had the timing set wrong) it was very hard to pull, so I would think it is on there tight.

Is there something else I could check before I try to set the timing again?:argh:

Thanks

What did you torque the nut to? You need to use a torque wrench here and torque it to 160-170 lbs (cant recall the spec off the top of my head at the moment)

Is your fuel shutoff solenoid pulled all the way up? Check it by moving it with your hand.

You need to beg, buy, steal, or borrow the correct timing tools.

It could also be the rubber fuel lines as well. Have you replaced them?

whats the idle set at?

I think I forgot to torque the nut down, I remember tightening it as far as my impact would go but that may only be 140ish.

I replaced the rubber lines between the engine and the factory metal lines if that's what you mean by runner lines. Could this be caused by air leaking into the line?

I will try tying the fuel solenoid up, it seemed to be working but it's worth a try.

If the timing slipped would it still run fine until you shut it off and then not want to start again?

Thanks

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I didn't touch the idle but it was idling around 800rpm if I remember right, and I tried giving it some pedal while I was cranking but it still wouldn't start up.

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**PROBLEM SOLVED** I've got a leak in my fuel line, I pumped the lift pump for awhile and it fired right up:jump::tu:

Thanks for the help guys:c:

That was quick.

Change all the lines - ones at the tank too. Use clamps that are meant for fuel line (they are smooth on the inside unlike a regular hose clamp).

Sounds good, I used fuel injection hose and fuel injection hose clamps for the part I did change already. Fuel injection hose should work for the rest of it right? By lines at the tank do you mean on the outside of the tank or inside?

I've heard something about a "draw straw" what is that?

Thanks

Actually, you need diesel rated hose. Most people say that the regular fuel injection line wont last very long.

You should be able to replace the two at the front (supply is 3/8" return is 5/16") and the two back at the tank. You shouldnt need to drop to tank (unless you want to).

I replaced the two at the front (from the pump to the metal lines on the chassis) with "multi fuel" rated fuel injection hose, I hope that means they can stand up to diesel. I'll have to try and find the leak next week, this truck has an auxiliary tank in the box that I'm drawing from right now, not sure if the electrical tank switching valve is working. I may try and skip that out of the system, since I have to remove the aux. tank anyways.

I read that the metal lines on these trucks like to rust, so would it be better to just replace the complete line from pump to tank with rubber?

Definitely. if its the right stuff. Since youre in sask, maybe a tractor supply place (Case, New Holland, JD, Brandt etc.) will have what you need?