They put on a new damper (old one was rotting from the leaking oil), front cover was welded (prev owners had the kdp fall out, cracked the case up. Put gasketmaker in place of the kdp), new gasket, timing was already set to 14* but I had it timed to 16.5*, and the new turbo.

 

I may sound like a world class idiot, but only to those who are. If you have info to the contrary, then post it. If not, then I'll let you figure out the truth for yourself. I'm done with this forum. Nothing but kids posting the same useless crap. I've gained nothing from being here as none of the more technical questions are ever answered by anyone knowledgeable and I've only tried helping people, yet no one ever uses the good advice they are given, even if it's from others.

 

well the fact that you say the oil filter bypasses most of the oil and doesn't filter it, is what makes me do a double take. It is true yes, that it has a bypass in it. However that is only used once the differential across the filter gets high(as in, dirty or plugged filter). Thats the only time it will bypass around the filter, otherwise all the oil goes through your oil filter. Its a safety measure to ensure your engine gets oil even if the operator isn't smart enough to do his maintenance.

 

^Wow thats pretty neat.. I didn't know that. Thanks

 

Half right. It is correct that the reason for the bypass valve is its supposed to save your engine from oil starvation in the case of a plugged filter. From my experience, you would be lucky to get a filter which bypasses above 20psi. After cold startup before the oil has had a chance to thin and clearances settle, not all oil is filtered and a good amount is bypassed because of the large pressure drop across the filter and the crappy bypass designs. Most don't seem to work right and bypass before they should. There are true full flow filters out there which do not have a bypass valve, but I'm not sure if I'd recommend them. I will admit that I am somewhat inexperienced with these engines and my statement was a generalization, but If these trucks happen to have a higher than normal bypass pressure or no bypass in all of their filters, I would be suprised.

I apologize for my outburst earlier. I was in a bad mood and the name calling struck a nerve.

 

Just my opinion, as I have nothing at stake here, there are a lot of people telling you that you are wasting money on this rig, you need a rebuild or a different engine. If you have "excessive" blow by then you have massive amounts of exhaust gas, as well as unburned diesel going straight into your oil. From past experience I can tell you that that stuff is acidic as all get out, and tends to lessen the lubricity of oil. I've watched a couple engines--not mine thank goodness--blow to hell because they were run way past their rebuild needs. As you mechanic pointed out, you have oil leaking into your exhaust manifold, that is not going to do your turbo any good at all, in fact could collect in the housing, light off, and burn up your new turbo. They can only handle so much heat. Just like darn near every one else on this thread, I'm going to have to say it: Rebuild it or Scrap it. That is unless you like seeing parts shooting out of your hood or fenders..... By the way, I have seen that happen as well, it is not cool. The engine I watched shooting parts out was full of oil, not leaking, but was showing excessive blow by, and loss of power; e.g. it was worn out.
Never the less, best of luck!

 

It is not my truck. I don't know why you quoted me.

 

Ya I'm in a tight spot here. I'm pretty pissed I got scammed on this. My wife gave me the "ok" to buy a commonrail though, so I think I'm selling this and getting my CR.

Any bidders?

 

How did you get scammed?

 

seen alot of common rails not even make it to 100,000 miles so im going to keep buying 200,000 mile 12 valves and take my chances of getting "scammed"