They put on a new damper (old one was rotting from the leaking oil), front cover was welded (prev owners had the kdp fall out, cracked the case up. Put gasketmaker in place of the kdp), new gasket, timing was already set to 14* but I had it timed to 16.5*, and the new turbo.

I may sound like a world class idiot, but only to those who are. If you have info to the contrary, then post it. If not, then I'll let you figure out the truth for yourself. I'm done with this forum. Nothing but kids posting the same useless crap. I've gained nothing from being here as none of the more technical questions are ever answered by anyone knowledgeable and I've only tried helping people, yet no one ever uses the good advice they are given, even if it's from others.

well the fact that you say the oil filter bypasses most of the oil and doesn't filter it, is what makes me do a double take. It is true yes, that it has a bypass in it. However that is only used once the differential across the filter gets high(as in, dirty or plugged filter). Thats the only time it will bypass around the filter, otherwise all the oil goes through your oil filter. Its a safety measure to ensure your engine gets oil even if the operator isn't smart enough to do his maintenance.

^Wow thats pretty neat.. I didn't know that. Thanks:tu:

Half right. It is correct that the reason for the bypass valve is its supposed to save your engine from oil starvation in the case of a plugged filter. From my experience, you would be lucky to get a filter which bypasses above 20psi. After cold startup before the oil has had a chance to thin and clearances settle, not all oil is filtered and a good amount is bypassed because of the large pressure drop across the filter and the crappy bypass designs. Most don't seem to work right and bypass before they should. There are true full flow filters out there which do not have a bypass valve, but I'm not sure if I'd recommend them. I will admit that I am somewhat inexperienced with these engines and my statement was a generalization, but If these trucks happen to have a higher than normal bypass pressure or no bypass in all of their filters, I would be suprised.

I apologize for my outburst earlier. I was in a bad mood and the name calling struck a nerve.

Just my opinion, as I have nothing at stake here, there are a lot of people telling you that you are wasting money on this rig, you need a rebuild or a different engine. If you have "excessive" blow by then you have massive amounts of exhaust gas, as well as unburned diesel going straight into your oil. From past experience I can tell you that that stuff is acidic as all get out, and tends to lessen the lubricity of oil. I've watched a couple engines--not mine thank goodness--blow to hell because they were run way past their rebuild needs. As you mechanic pointed out, you have oil leaking into your exhaust manifold, that is not going to do your turbo any good at all, in fact could collect in the housing, light off, and burn up your new turbo. They can only handle so much heat. Just like darn near every one else on this thread, I'm going to have to say it: Rebuild it or Scrap it. That is unless you like seeing parts shooting out of your hood or fenders..... By the way, I have seen that happen as well, it is not cool. The engine I watched shooting parts out was full of oil, not leaking, but was showing excessive blow by, and loss of power; e.g. it was worn out.
Never the less, best of luck!

It is not my truck. I don't know why you quoted me.

Ya I'm in a tight spot here. I'm pretty pissed I got scammed on this. My wife gave me the "ok" to buy a commonrail though, so I think I'm selling this and getting my CR.

Any bidders?

How did you get scammed? :pca1:

seen alot of common rails not even make it to 100,000 miles so im going to keep buying 200,000 mile 12 valves and take my chances of getting "scammed"

Because the assbag that sold me the truck hid a LOT of things he knew about it. He said he was going to do the same thign to the truck I am, and hobby it out. He said "other things" came up and decided not too. Ya the asshole found all the problems wrong and hid them up very well.

[ ] Be Quiet
[ ] Not Interested
[x] Tell me more. Much more.

just my opinion but, i think you should try to find another engine, keep yours for parts, i would much rather have a 12v then a 24v, but thats just me

the common rails are ending up showing a decent amount of problems through time. the main one though is the cooling system. with cylinder 6 being tucked back against the firewall it is not able to cool as efficiently as the front cylinders, and i guess on the CR engines, they have a poor waterjacket system that doesnt help #6. and its leading to a number of engines destroying the piston in #6 cylinder.

04-168,000 miles dropped valve complete overhaul
05-98,000 miles hole in piston complete overhaul
05-42,000 miles threw #6 rod hard enough to knock the starter off. crate engine.

i got the dodge in the middle with 40,000 miles and they put 4 trannies in it before 80,000 miles. one set of injectors at 79,000 and then the engine at 98,000.

my 1st 12 valve i got with 216,000 miles. head gasket at 240,000 miles. and complete overhaul at 295,000 miles. i could have done the rod and main bearings though because it started knocking when the thrust bearing broke.

I love the common rails because of the 4 doors and if it was up to my wife i'd have one but shes not the one that turns the wrenches when they break.

Damn I had no idea. Guess I'm second guessing now.

Wowzers thats nuts. Guess i'm in a pretty tight situation. Maybe I'll find an 03 24v thats already had the vp taken care of.

First it has to be 02 and under for a vp and second mine has been very good to me besides the junk factory lift pump. They're not all bad!

OK, I've read through this again and see some really dubious stuff that is just pissing me off:
Since when is the bottom end associated with blowby and piston rings?
And what makes you think this is in any way even remotely associated the rear block cooling issues that have affected every B series engine since the first one that was installed in a Case combine in 1984?

People need to step back and stop trying to give advice about things they are not knowledgeable on. Really disappointing. I won't bother further validating any portion of this thread by explaining what a bottom end is, the rear cylinder cooling issue, or why you should never run an engine low on oil.

Please people, more reading and learning and less typing of horseshit. :s:

Sell it or part it out are the only fiscally responsible alternatives. And do us all a favor - don't buy another. :td:

i work the crap out of mine. you may have great luck if its your daily driver. anything that you abuse (running out of oil) or overload (im guilty) is not going to last as long as one thats drove down the road at 65 under stock power. if you think you need a diesel because there cool and like black smoke maybe you'd be better off in a gasser and leave the diesels to those who need them.

I hope to god that last statement was not aimed towards me...

The only reason I still own one is because it's paid for, it's reliable, it's fuel efficient and I can't afford a newer one. Working at a dealership way back when, I never really saw problems with 1st gen or 2nd gen 12v or 24v engines other than running out of oil or some wiring or sensor issues. Yes, there were a few more than normal VP pump failures, but never bad engine failures. There was transmission issues with all of them, as we all know, even under stock power, but I can only remember one that broke a valvespring at 120miles and that was just a freak thing. Bad manufacturing on a spring. I would personally love to get a newer truck cause the body on mine is about shot. Door hinges need replacing, carpet, paint, weatherstripping, etc., but the prices are just out of my league on a commonrail.

if there is a problem with things me or other people are saying because we dont know, why dont you correct us so that we do know and dont spread wrong information again. there is absolutely no need to bag on anyone for posting wrong information. were all here to try and help and learn. so help us learn, instead of putting us down.

red rattler not directed at you just had 1 cr and 3 around me that haul hay 2 that didnt last. i myself will not have another til mechanical engines are banned and thats it. not bashing on anyone.

I know it has to be an '02 and under for the VP.. I was just saying that if you guys are all saying CR's are junk, then I'll prolly bite the bullet for a 24v. But if I DO get a 24v, I'll make sure the VP has already been redone.

So you are saying your CR has been good? No issues? Because I really want one, but I want to make sure this thing that I"m gonna be paying out the ass for doesn't blow up on me and start leaving me stranded

Like I said just the lift pump(s) for me and it has been modified since about 12k miles and it has 117k on it now. I proably just jinxed myself now :D

How many miles were on it when the lift pump went? Do you like your cr or 12v better (perhaps pros and cons of each?)

Probably true. For the record, I didn't mean to CALL you an idiot. Just the fact that your statement needed clarifying.My apologies for making it sound that way. So your sorry, I'm sorry We're all one big happy family again. :c:

i think alot of the problem is that the injectors are so sensitive that if you get bad fuel they are more likely to hang open and gauld pistons. on my 05 i had a aux. tank with a pump to fill up our equipment. they made me put a filter on the pump in the back. they said if they ever found any metal in my filter when they did my injectors the warranty would be void.

So far my 5.9L CR has been great. However, I haven't tried running it out of oil yet!:tttt: You kids are a hoot to listen to!!! With as much of a disposable income that some of you seem to have by buying multiple turbos and fixing worn out engines that have no business being fixed, and paying some other person to do the work for you, our economy should be recovering any minute now!:tu:

Seriously, though.... ditch that engine. If you can get a used 12V or 24V for a $1K-$2K that has less than 100K miles on it, do it. Then take that newly purchased engine, tear it apart, check it over, read the manuals, get the experience, rebuild anything that doesn't look right, have a beer, and install it in your truck. That way you gain the experience of knowing how a diesel works(besides P.F.M.), you save a metric butt-load of money over having someone else do it for you (even if you have to purchase a couple of tools that you might not already own), you get the satisfaction of working on your own vehicle, AND YOU LEARN NOT TO RUN THEM WITHOUT OIL IN THE FUTURE!!!:scare2:

I'm just saying ... that's all. :c:

I have a job family and obligations. I can't just stop what I'm doing and change the front cover, timing, damper etc. So unfortunatly in this case I had to pay someone to do it. But its just too brute for what I need right now. I need me a softy CR hehe

what you want for it like it is. i take that POS off your hands:tu:

First one went at 100k second one lasted a year then the AirDog went on and never looked back. The lift pumps on the 03 and 04 were a bad design (Dodge engineers used it to SUCK fuel insted of PUSH fuel like it was designed to do) but the 04.5 on have a better setup and saw very little failures. I love my CR hands down, way more civilized and functional. Cold weather has no effects on starting or running due to the electronics unlike the 12v. A programer on a CR is light years ahead of a 12v obviously, its adjustable power unlike the 12v. But the 12V is by far cheaper to run and operate due to it being simple and effecient and lack of emission bs. The CR is my daily warrior and the 12V was bought to be a toy and the truck that will recieve the abuse of being a weekend warrior. :pca1:

Please do!! I'll pm you right now. I need it sold so I can get another truck

Excellent post. Thanks a lot man :tu: I'm looking for a CR as we speak hehe

i know hay mafia's looking for a pickup so just send him a pm. we'd sure like to have another pos in our family to work on lol.

lol ok

Lets see some pics of this so called pos

give me your phone number or email address

zach_west_17@hotmail.com or 806-231-6892.:tu:

Ok just sent some pics. Let me know if you are interested.

Post the pics here. We want to see!

You want to see pics of the truck?? It's nothing special.. lol