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woolyhorn 03-28-2010 02:13 PM

Turbo Oil Draining
 
I got a good deal on a ht3b and its rusted together pretty bad. I can't get it apart, but it has no shaft play. When I bolt it up the oil return line it is sticking out to the side. Will I be able to get by like this?

dan33klein 03-28-2010 03:10 PM

your going to have to break it loose to rotate the turbo 90 degress so the oil drain is pointing down. soak it with pb blaster a few times it will break loose

TXHC 03-29-2010 10:56 PM

You can't get the housing bolts loose? Or you got the bolts loose and you can't crack the turbine housing off the bearing housing?

Soaking does fine on the bolts, if you're patient and time isn't an issue. I use S'Ok Penetrating Oil or Kano Kroil on most anything. You can use ATF & Acetone in a 50:50 ratio and it will work better than anything you can buy. The problem with penetrating oil and turbine housing bolts is that it just doesn't do the job nearly as well as on other nuts & bolts. The high heat, expansion & contraction of the metals, etc just makes for a seriously stuck bolt and the penetrating oil doesn't creep into the threads nearly as well.

But the best way of stubborn housing bolt removal is by using a flat face punch and hitting the tops of the bolt heads a few times each, then trying to remove them with a wrench. Repeat it several times and and you'll be surprised how well it works. You can also use a rosebud torch and heat up the bolt heads and the turbine housing around the bolts, but that's extreme. I've rebuilt hundreds of turbos and only brought the torch out a handful of times.

If you can't get the housings to come apart, hold the bearing housing in your hand, hovering it over a table or the floor, and hit the turbine housing with a big hammer at various places. You won't crack the housing unless it's already got a crack in it.

The oil drain needs to face straight down, as it is gravity fed, and drains back into the pan faster when facing straight down.


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