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joshmock 09-21-2009 04:32 PM

WD-40 + NV4500
 
sorry guys, but can't send pm's till i have ten threads er somethin' ... so i'll waste one on this. my tranny's all pulled apart and i'm workin' on it right? well blue sky turns to gray and now i'm gettin drinched. grab all the parts, some kinda heavy by the way, and started puttin' them on the back prorch. So i sprayed down the case with wd-40. cause with this humidity i swear i can already see rust starting inside and out... and all on my newly cleaned case! so.... .... is that gonna be a foreign object that i;m not gonna want in my tranny?-or- is it gonna be ok with the minimal amout. btw to clean the tranny i had just used soap and water, had alot of metal shavings in the bottom and of course dirty on the outside. thanks guys

kazairl 09-21-2009 06:00 PM

Putting some type of penetrating oil on your steel and iron parts is a good idea. Using water to clean it won't help you with the rust but it shouldn't hurt too bad as long as you make sure you dry it off really good and coat it. Just spray it down with brake clean before you put it back together. But I mean like AS your putting it together. YOu should try to keep it as clean as possible on reassembly.

joshmock 09-21-2009 06:23 PM

thanks man! yeah, i'm not washing everything with soap and water :ph: just the case, and that was only cause i had used simple green on the outside and didn't want any remnants of the simple green in with my tranny fluid later. so opted for soap and water after the simple green. thanks man, will do. can't wait to get it back together.

p.s. if you don't already know about SIMPLE GREEN i highly recommend it as a cheap cleaner. it's GREAT! just be careful around painted objects, as it will take some paint/or discolor them. pick it up at wal-mart or lowes/home depot!

dragogt 09-21-2009 08:50 PM

Castrol's royal purple is good also, along with mean green..

joshmock 09-24-2009 02:51 AM

ok boys, got the tranny all put back together, sealed it up. gonna try for re-installation later today. i do have a question about it - should it be hard to turn? like you can still manually turn it, it just takes a firm grip. i never turned it before while still all together, and i don't have the manual to check torque specs. just kept everything about 30 lbs and thats about what i remember chilton said for pretty much all the bolts. should this be a concern? thanks guys

stkdram55 09-24-2009 03:07 AM

is it in gear or neutral

joshmock 09-24-2009 09:41 AM

nuetral

Dr. Evil 09-24-2009 09:47 AM


Originally Posted by dragogt (Post 398358)
Castrol's royal purple is good also, along with mean green..

Castrol doesnt make Royal Purple - and Royal Purple is oil not degreaser.

I think your talking about Super Clean:

CASTROL 101780 "CASTROL" SUPER CLEAN CLEANER DEGREASER 32OZ

Uncle Bubba 09-24-2009 09:51 AM

Or was he talkin about wipin it down with some Castrol Syntorq fluid before re-assembly.

dukeboy_318 09-24-2009 11:33 AM


Originally Posted by joshmock (Post 399745)
ok boys, got the tranny all put back together, sealed it up. gonna try for re-installation later today. i do have a question about it - should it be hard to turn? like you can still manually turn it, it just takes a firm grip. i never turned it before while still all together, and i don't have the manual to check torque specs. just kept everything about 30 lbs and thats about what i remember chilton said for pretty much all the bolts. should this be a concern? thanks guys

It should be firm to turn. both of mine were when i put new clutches in, id say your fine at 30, most bolts range from 30-45 internally according to my haynes manual

joshmock 09-24-2009 02:53 PM

ok boys so i'm good there, thanks dukeboy. but now i'm extremly frustrated!!! :madd: i've got it all mocked up and the input shaft is in the clutch, except shy from being flush by about 3 inches! i've worked for 5 hours trying to get it the rest of the way on and bolts in it. why is this? i've leveled it with the previous bolt holes so it shouldn't be binded from boing in, in fact i can push it in up to the point of about 3 inches gap. i've spun the output shaft as to try and line up the input shaft splines, but that doesn't seem to work. i've compressed the clutch to see if that would give me some room, helped a little but still shy. can't quite get the bolts to start threading. i've tried everything :bat: but no success. what could be holding her up? should the clutch be compressed for the re-installation process? :humm: i've spent 5 hours and i had to take a shower just so the wife would let me on the computer.... :argh:

diesel pap 09-24-2009 03:02 PM

that is the hardest part of putting a clutch in. are you sure you are centered. if you are try turning the flywheel a little.

kazairl 09-24-2009 05:23 PM

Are you sure you have engaged the clutch? Is the tranny in gear or in neutral when you spin the output shaft? Other than making sure the trans is level with the engine I don't know what to tell you. Just make sure there is an even gap all the way around between the engine and trans. You could also buy some longer bolts to help line up your trans but you shouldn't use them to draw your trans to the engine.

Also check to make sure the clutch is centered with the pilot bearing. If you have a clutch alignment tool that would be best. Other wise your going to have to eyeball it. Unless you backed off the pressure plate or bumped it(you would have to bump it pretty hard) the clutch shouldn't have moved. Good luck.

Diesel Dawgs Performance 09-24-2009 05:40 PM

If you dont have the trans completely level with the engine its not going to slid in.

dan33klein 09-24-2009 05:43 PM

i just put a new valair clutch it my truck. it went super easy. used the tranny jack at school got the imput shaft in, then has the tranny/bellhousing flush in 15 seconds. had the tranny in and all bolts threaded and torqued in 3 mintues lol. but you definatly want the alignment tool like kazairl said. makes everything easy. if not it will be hard to eyeball.
thats just my 2 cents

tower_ofpower 09-24-2009 10:51 PM

well he may not have bumped it prior to install, but once he depressed the clutch the disc may have dropped and now he does need to align it (worst case scenario) by eye balling it you can usually tell if it's off center abit... as for eyeballing to line it up... isnt as easy as it seems

dukeboy_318 09-25-2009 10:21 AM

he lost the alignment when he pressed clutch down, 3 inches, the shafts not even in the disc yet., what you need to do is pull it back(yes its a bitch, had to do it myself twice, aint fun), realign the disc and pilot bearing with each other. then what i did is got some 5 inch long stainless, grade 8 carriage bolts you need 4,when i got the trans input shaft just inside the bellhousing, i put the bolts in, this helped align the trans and just required some slight wiggleing to get it into the disc and then into the pilot bearing. Leave trans under it to support the wieght and another trick i found after pulling the trans and clutch bout 3 times this year is to put a jack under the front of the motor and use a wide flat piece of wood and level the motor out. the cummins is front heavy without the trans so it tilts forward sometimes and makes it harder yet to get everything aligned. if you get stuck, pm me and ill give you my number and ill try to help you where i can. Between my 2 trucks and the 2 farm trucks, ive pulled a crap ton of clutches. The worst are dual disc, i hated putting those in.


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