carrier bearing in long dodge drive shaft
 

I Have a 97 dodge, the (truck in my sig), I have replaced the bearing in my drive shaft, it was so blown that it howeld and shook like 2 inches. I changed it out and the shuttering @ take off whent away. I did a few burnouts, and now the suttering in the truck has come back. Does anyone know of a super solid bearing set up for these carrier bearings. I am also thinking the shutter is in my transmuission, but i think it was strange that it went away when i put in a fresh bearing. I have noticed the shuttering only @ take off. the truck does not do it past 5-10 mph depending how hard i hammer it. it also doesnt do it during a break stand. kinda wierd.:argh:

hmm get under it and shake it to see how much play its got in it, man those r a b-otch to change, when i get 1 at the shop i dont even mess w/ trying to press 1 off i just cut it.

:c:I had a universal go tits up and it made my truck shutter in a nasty manner. Though carrier was trashed,but it was just the two rear shft u joints.:c:

yeah something is throwing you drivline off balance check your u joints and rear yoke for play

Hmmm.....If that new carrier is dead all ready, take a look at your driveline. Have you hit something with it? My fix or repair daily has a ever so slightly bent driveline and it vibrates at only a certain speed. It is just a back country truck, so I haven't bothered to fix it yet. If it is a U joint, you will notice a "click" when you let off the accelerator and another "click" when you get back on.

I have not hit anything, I just replaced the bearing cause when i got the truck, the carrier bearing was so shot, the guy thought the tranny was blown. I changed it and it was like i put a new transmission in my truck, for 116.00 bucks. I drove it 15 miles and the vibration is back...evarything feels tight. i noticed the carrier bearing is incased with rubber...was woundering if they sell a solid mounted one that will not give under tourque. maybe i just need my shaft balanced but the truck runs fine @ high speed it just shutters on take off from dead stop. I can mash the skinny pedal if im rolling and it wont shutter though.... its just strange prolly another thing i am going to chase for moths.:humm:

did you put your shims back in some trucks have shims to adjust the driveline

naw, i didnt have any shims. everything i took out i put back. i think its strange that it worked fine, for 15 miles and one hell burner and after that it started to shake a bit. i have driven it about 6000 miles and its not getting worse but its anoying.

something is out of balance i would take it to a driveline shop it might be twisted a bit or something

just throwing this out there is your drive line in phase? i have popped alot of u joints in my jeep from being out of phase

ya thats a good idea....i don't know of any out here in ole NH. gonna have to do some research. i need my road runners drive shaft balanced too

always a good thing to have a balanced drive line

The rubber is there for a reason, its an isolator that keeps from killing joints and bearings... I used to work for Dana and was the head test tech for the Ford Super Duty carrier bearing... Ran all sorts of mud bath tests on the stupid things to recreate the Arizona desert sand. Anyways, its easy to tell when they go bad, it'll have slop, feel like it has sand in it, and in some cases the races will turn blue from heat. Throw the trans in N, throw the rear end on jackstands, and spin the driveshaft a bit... You'll know if its any good still. Did you put the last one on yourself? If so, are you sure you seated the bearing all the way onto the shaft? I've seen a lot of guys leave them a few thousandths short and that leaves a side load on the bearing that will kill them prematurely. If the bearing is still good, your trans is shot most likely, or you have a poorly set up rear end.

What do you mean by in phase? im guessing it not......i have a lift so maybe i need to change the angle of the axle??

phase is the way the yokes on the ends are lined up. i am not really sure how to explain it but google it. or some one else on here can maybe explain it better.

I gotcha. The geomotry of the axle vs the drive shaft. ......im just going to run it till sometihng blows up. why fix wats not broke....:argh:i should just trade it for a reg cab 5speed:pca1:. Thanks for all the imput. i will pull it into the shop and frig with it.

this might help has a good pic which may help you

DRIVE LINE PHASING

here is a web site that might help with phasing

Driveline 101

hope it helps a bit, it did when i put mine in my rock crawler

Well how much are you lifted? Because of the length of the drivetrains in these things, angles don't get out of wack like they do in Jeeps... They do, it just takes a LOT of lift. Phase refers to how the output on the trans aligns with the input of the pinion, 90*, 180*, etc. If you are out of phase at say 30*, it messes with the harmonics of the U-Joints. If it doesn't give you a bad vibration in the cab, it'll wreck the needle bearings and your caps...

you don't have to be lifted at all to be out of phase. and being out of phase can damge anything in the drive line. Any car, truck or suv that has a two piece drive shaft can be easily out off phase if someone has ever change U joints or anything.

Thanks for the tips guys:U:

no problem anytime.

I wasn't saying that lifting the vehicle would throw a driveline out of phase at all. I was saying that driveline angles don't change as drastically as with a Jeep due to its long length. When you set up a driveline, your u-joint angles have to be equal and opposite in order for them to properly compliment each other. You don't have a joint at 3* drop coming out of the T-Case, and 0* going into the pinion... It has to match that 3*. When you lift a vehicle, you throw those angles off. In a jeep you can change them 10*-15* pretty quickly, but with these trucks it would take a much taller lift to duplicate that. Is what I'm saying making sense? It is in my head, but I've been doing this a while and I just have a bit different lingo.

i got ya when i read it i didnt think about pinion angles, i thought you were still talkin about Phasing. i have a jeep too, that i wheel currently motor less. yea my 13" drive shaft has bad problems with the rear u joint i have the rear pinion rotated up so it is straight with the drive shaft to avoid the yokes biding going down steep hills but it still wears them badly.

Well, unless you have a double cardan joint on the T-Case end (a lot of guys call it a CV, even though its not), you don't want the pinion pointed at the T-Case. That's the problem with Jeeps, the driveshaft is so short that to keep angles equal and opposite, the U-Joints would bind. The easiest solution is a Double Cardan driveshaft... The only other real option is to stretch the wheelbase, or tilt the engine down.

If this truck has a lift on it and no pinion angle shims in the rear axles I can guess what the problem is.

its a budget wheeler so i just swap to an extra drive shaft when i break one. i dont want to spend the money on an sye kit and a new drive shaft anyways cuz it is blown up right now and i am trying to save money up to swap a 4BT in it.:U: then i will turn the lil banger up and roll the coal with it.

Nasty, i got a friend putting a 4bt in a wrangler, I have pictures of the engine in my profile of the ruff instal....got the motor out of a box truck.:U: