12 valve fuel plate question
 

I want to put a different fuel plate in my 98 12 valve. Looking at pure diesel power web sight (Cummins Diesel Torque Cam Fuel Plate Dodge 5.9L 12 Valve P7100 Injection Pump) their guide shows getting more horsepower out of a #8 plate than a #10 and does not mention a #0. Does anyone know what #0 is rated for? and why don't I ever hear about an #8? thanks

First - welcome to the site :c:

Fuel plates - heres a brief history - they were developed by a company called TST Products and they made a number of different profiles. 4,5,6,8, 10, 11, & 12 (I believe).

Fast forward a number of years....this was only a few years ago - people began to realize that the could custom cut their own plate profiles with a simple tool like a grinder (a milling machine would probably work better). at this time the 0, and 100 plates (and a few other variations) were born.

If this is a street driven truck I really think youd be more happy with a 100 plate:

Attachment 54376

I ground my stock plate to a 100 with a dremel.. I'm happy with it! I've got it full forward right now i think i need to slide it back a little tho.. way better power tho.

If you want to see what a 100 does before you get out the grinder, just remove your stocker and run without for a bit.

By the time your governor arm hits the plate, you're probably above the ramp of a 100 anyway.

I ground my fuel plate but i also want to take my waste gate out but would that take away my boost?

You don't want to take the WG out. You want to either restrict the boost signal going to the WG or plug the line completely.

Make sure to not restrict it so much that you start over boosting. Your stock charger is wasting its breath over 35 PSI. Out of its range. Above 35, it's just heating the air. Plus, the head gasket won't like pressures much higher than that for too long.

thanks Dr Evil, Its mostly my daily driver but I also haul trailers loaded with toys, I put a S&B filter and a CFM intake manifold, but lag going up hill. Im going to try the 100 and see how that does.

just clamp off the WG line and put a 100 plate in...there is a ton of info out there for you if you just search!

after I grind my plate to a 100, do I put that in the stock position or slide that all the way forward? should I adjust the starwheel to? my original question though I was looking for the approx. BPH/ft-lbs for the 100 plate? the #10 220/570, the #8 230/605 according to their chart. I haven't seen any post of someone using a #8, is the 100 that much better? I plan on getting injectors and a exhaust manifold next. will I have problems with my egts with everything stock? Thanks for any help

my cohice is a 100 BC it gives you alot of fueling up top but not ful fuel down low. as for the BHP/TQ compare the 100 to a 10 down lox and a 0 up top. You NEED NEED NEED gauges!!!! Then what kind of tranny do you have if its a stock auto leave it in the stock position or just push the stock plate foward. You need a tranny before you start to build the motor or at least a VB and converter.