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$150 solenoid or $1500 P pump?
A month ago my truck stopped starting without me bumping the throttle. Once started she ran fine. A couple weeks ago it started acting up when on the interstate then completely shut down after letting off the throttle. It quickly started on the side of the road and ran fine until the other day. My truck when started will run at a high RPM until i let off and it dies. While running at the high RPM it has a terrible and delayed throttle response. will not start for another five attempts, then does the same thing....I have been considering replacing the P pump because when it runs there is a clicking sound coming from it, therefore leading me to believe that there is something wrong with it. Does the solenoid have any effect on the truck while running? Is it hopeful thinking that it may be the solenoid or solenoid relay? I am soon installing the ATS compounded 3000/5000 turbos and figured I could do their stage 2 p7100 pump as well. Any opinions are greatly appreciated.
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- Sorry my sig isnt showing up.........97 cummins with 370 marine injectors, city diesel's high flow DV's, 4K gov springs, # 10 fuel plate full forward, cranked star wheel. |
:humm: somebody help him.... dr. evil where are you???
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One thing to try is to remove the fuel shutdown solenoid completely. It fails open and you can just wire the rack stop up to be sure. do some test runs and see what you get. You just have to push the rackstop down to shut it off manually.
Typical q's though, fuel system check! Hoses, filters, etc to make sure you aren't getting a foamy supply of fuel.. the clicking sound could be a bad lift pump, or possibly a bad overflow valve. |
Uh, how many miles?
Hold off on the pump. Have you had the throttle cable recall done? Also, have you ever changed youre overflow valve? Heres some info on the solenoid:
Originally Posted by Racer9
(Post 256750)
Start by checking the fuel shutdown solenoid, see this pic; http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Fac...ocations-l.gif
When you try to start it, the rod going down should pull up and stay up with the key on. If it doesn't, leave the key on and see if you can pull it up manually. If you can and it stays up, will it then start? If it does, check the (blue?) wire from the battery, and next the relay on the firewall, next to the brake booster. The solenoid itself rarely fails, but does sometimes stick from being dirty. It can be removed, disassembled, cleaned and reassembled very easily. It's just a plunger and spring inside. You could also have a fuel problem. Is the fuel filter fresh? How are the fuel lines? They get old and deteriorate allowing air into the system, which causes some problems. Let us know. Also, how long have you had the 4 k Governor springs in? |
Your lift pump is probably clicking not the P-pump.
Have you put any fuel conditioner in your fuel for cold weather? |
181K miles, no throttle cable recall, no new overflow valve, 2-3 months with 4K GSK, no fuel conditioner with this fill-up.
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The clicking is most likely the LP. Im leaning to an overflow valve myself. Might try some anti gel. Not saying thats gonna help but it couldnt hurt. Whats your idle at?
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a $50 overflow valve is a whole lot cheaper than a pump.
Might want to consider looking at a few things before getting a pump. |
mine had a noticiable clicking sound in the pump and ended up being #5 bore on the pump is cracked and leaking fuel in the engine, and happened shortly after installing 4 k springs, if its that get ahold of me i have a pump guy fixing mine and is working his voodoo on it he has done several for friends of mine and WOW, he makes a pump do things that not many can,
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Will do, thank you for your advice!
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