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2 QUESTIONS
OK NOW THAT I FIXED MY TC, NOW THE SPEDO DONT WORK, NO BIG DEAL. I KNOW WHAT I DID WRONG. BUT, MY ABS LIGHT IS ON, AND I DONT KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS. I NEED HELP ON THAT. AND MY O/D DONT WORK NOW. I GO DOWN THE HIGHWAY TACHING AT 2500,DOING LIKE 45, THATS ALL SHE WILL DO. ITS NORMALLY AT LIKE 1200 TO 1500. WHATS GOING ON? MY QUESTIONS ARE WHATS UP WITH THE ABS LIGHT, AND THE O/D NOT KICKING IN:argh: just one problem after another.:argh:
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ABS light is usually just a wire disconnected. I know on my '95 chevy the ABS wasnt working right so the PO just unplugged it and now the light stays on, doesnt hurt anything other than now you don't have ABS.
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i wonder if that is why i get a stiff pedal in stop and go traffic?
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Check the rear brakes.
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what would you check your rear brakes for
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I guarantee you it is your VSS, Vehicle speed sensor. Nothing serious. I just fixed mine. Had pretty much the same symptoms as you but I didn't notice if the overdrive didn't work. My speedometer wouldn't work, abs light was on, and my cruise control wouldn't work. The speed sensor on my 98 was located on the top of the rear diff. I belive it's the same spot for yours. Mine was actually just the wire. First I'd check your wire, it should run right to the top of the rear diff, easy to find. If it's not the wire then just replace the sensor itself. It's like $40, 2 bolts and a plug. Really simple. Goodluck.
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actually if its a 4x4 5speed the sensor is on the tail housing of the transfer case
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Originally Posted by wilke12V
(Post 219540)
i wonder if that is why i get a stiff pedal in stop and go traffic?
also have you checked the tranny fluid lately while idling in neutral when the engine is at operating temp? |
it is 4x4 and i know where that is, i dont think i have the gears meshed right. i think the a/c blows out the defrost. the curise control never worked since i got it and same with the abs light. the tranny fluid is fine. the tc leaks a lil out from the bolts, just havent got to siliconeing them up. what do you think? and thanks for the help so far.
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the CC issue is more than likely a bad vacuum line going to the CC unit under the driver side battery. battery acid will eat away at the tubing. this in turn will make the brakes get hard, the a/c to not work and the abs and brake lights to light up. looking from the driver side of the motor, below the injection pump you will see the power steering cap. in that general vacinity you should see a 3/4" or so rubber hose. follow it back and make sure there are no cracks in it or no soft spots. a foot or two back it'll branch off to some smaller tubing that you will trace back to the CC module under the battery. look that one over carefully. 99% sure that will be part of your problem.
once the CC and a/c is working properly more than likely the ABS lights will still be on as they store a code. |
A guy from another forum sent me this back when i was having ABS issues......
If your ABS light and brake light come on, in most cases it's probably your Rear Wheel Speed Sensor (RWSS). This sensor is on top of the rear differential. This sensor is controlled by a "exciter ring" that is interupted by the teeth on the ring sending a variable voltage signal to the computer depending on vehicle speed. small metal shavings can cause it to fail over time. The most common symptoms of the switch's failure are bad speedometer readings and tripping the RWAL computer located under the center of the dash. Other obvious things can also trip the computer such as: 1. bad pads, shoes, calipers, wheel cylinders. 2. bad fuses. 3. poor connections or broken and/or chaffed wire. Once you have detemined that none of the above exist, you can try a system reset buy pulling the abs fuse and/or pulling negative battery terminals for 30 sec or so. If the lights come back, the next thing to try is reading the RWAL fault codes. To read the codes on 96 and older trucks: 1. turn key to the "on" position. 2. for just a second, ground pin # 13 on the diagnostic plug located on the knee bolster (#13 is a black wire, it's the 4th from right bottom row). watch your ABS/Brake light for codes. start counting with the first long flash, end with last short flash. there are only 13 codes. 1. Not used. 2. open isolation valve wiring or bad control module. 3. open dump valve wiring or bad contol module. 4. closed rwal switch. 5. not used 4wd. over 16 dump pulses in 2wd. 6. erratic speed sensor reading. (most common) 7. electronic control module fuse pellet open, isolation output missing, or valve wiring shorted to ground. 8. dump output missing or valve wiring shorted to ground. 9. speed sensor wire resistance/ high reading. 10. speed sensor wire resistance/ low reading. 11. brake switch always on, RWAL light comes on over 40mph. 12. not used. 13. electronic control module phase lock loop failure. 14. electronic control module program check failure. 15. electronic control module RAM falure. mine was a code 10. it was a break in the molded section of wire off the RWSS. *On 97-98.5 12V models, you will end up at the dealer to get the ABS codes. Hope this helps, and good luck! |
Speed sensor is what I said first. I'd start there because it's easy and most common from the posting above. I'll bet the cruise control works after the speed sensor is fixed, the ABS light should will go off too.
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- should will |
well, when i fixed the spedo. the o/d fixed its self. so the abs light is still on, so just another task, thank you guys for your help.:pca1:
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