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-   -   cummins no start (https://www.dieselbombers.com/12-valve-2nd-gen-dodge-cummins-94-98/130879-cummins-no-start.html)

macer_81 06-20-2016 12:33 PM

cummins no start
 
I just bought a 94 dodge with a 12v. The tappet cover was poring oil out of it so I replaced the gasket. Pulled the pump off marking the shaft and gear first. Pulled the pump changed gasket and reinstalled the pump. During this process i deleted stock lift pump and installed a raptor pump. I ran the new fuel line to the stock filter. I primed the pump went to crank to bleed the fuel lines and only got spurts of fuel. First thought was timing was off so I went to pin timed it and it was fine. Replaced the over flow valve, I turned the lift pump up to 30psi and still no steady fuel to the injectors. If i hold it to the floor it does spay a little more but not enough to prime the lines. I even tried runing it off starting fluid for a few seconds with no luck. I have no leaks any where. Where should I try next? Thanks

macer_81 06-26-2016 12:47 PM

No help at all? Ok so little more info today i made sure the rack is moving it is. Than I pulled the #1 dv to make sure they moving. Cranked and its moving freely up and down as it should. Turned on the lift pump and had a steady flow of fuel coming into the chamber. Reassembled samething very little fuel pumping out of the dv. Could all the dv's be bad? Hard to believe all that fuel flowing directly to them and not pumping enough fuel to start it. I need a direction to go from here?

Tmaxxrox97 06-27-2016 09:01 AM

Each injection event is only a very small amount of fuel. I think I read somewhere its around .35cc worth (at idle) but I'm not sure on that. Delivery valves don't generally "go bad" unless they are stuck in the holder.

So for things to try:
Do the delivery valves move freely in their holders? Take 'em out and move them by hand just to make sure they move and make sure you put them back right.
Have you bled the injector lines? Loosen the lines at the injectors and hold your foot to the floor and crank until there is a little fuel spurting out. Then tighten the injector lines back up and try cranking again with your foot to the floor. Should start then.
Where is your AFC positioned on the pump? I've had problems where if it is too far back it won't start.
Is your fuel shutdown solenoid working? Does it lift up and stay up after you crank the starter? Try lifting that up manually.

I hope that helps a little. No starts are very frustrating. :argh:

GasItOut 06-28-2016 01:57 PM

I would make sure you have fuel pressure at the injection pump, wire up the shutoff solenoid, crack all the injectors and crank for a while. It should be little spurts and bubbles and have someone watch until it looks like a solid fuel leak an no air. If it won't start try the small hits of either again. Turn up the idle. It should run, finish bleeding with it running. Assuming it ran before. Other thoughts of course are compression i.e. Rings and valves and injectors, and the injection pump. Keep us posted on what's happening. Good luck!

turbo2332 07-07-2016 01:28 PM

if it worked before you took it apart its clearly something you did. not anything new. the only pump thing that makes sence is the shut down solenoid is hungup and not allowing start fuel. timing could be messed up. you sure you pin timed everything correctly?

GasItOut 07-09-2016 01:05 AM

Hey man i didnt see that it wont hit on either when i first read. if it really isnt hitting at all on either you can worry about timing, and anything to do with fuel later. It should run on either no matter what, all you need is compression and a functioning valve train. i would back up and make sure you have compression and that all the valves are moving and then move forward


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